Anyone made an FJ40 AWD? (2 Viewers)

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So, are the hubs locked full time on a rig with Torsen transfer case?


I'm not sure. Locking hubs seem to be a thing of the past on 4WDs that have a Torsen in the T case. Seems many replaced with a way to uncouple one of the inner axle shafts on part time 4WDs. In my 99 4Runner it's in the extension off the diff and both CV axles are the same. But it doesn't have a Torsen in the T case. My second generation Sequoia can be run in 2WD, 4WD open and 4WD locked. Never researched if the front axle is disengaged when in 2WD. It does have a Torsen in the T case. It also has a LSD light on the that not sure what it means. Limited Slip as I know it is not something you turn on and off. Torsen only operates in 4WD open so that may have some to do with the light.:meh:

We are getting into semantics here, and labels given to a vehicle from the vehicle manufacturer.

In general, AWD vehicles (Subaru, FZJ80, Rav4, etc) do not have the option to shift into 2WD. The center diff is always engaged. The difference is on 'Full Time 4WD', you can actually lock the center diff to transfer power, rather than relying on a limited slip setup.

4WD, you can select 2HI, 4HI, or 4LO.

For the sake of this thread, the OP is discussing using a split case to 'put all 500hp down to all 4 wheels'.

My reply was based on him using a split case shifted into 4HI, putting him in 4WD at all times, and not the use of a 'Full Time 4WD' transfer case (80/100 series) to get what he's looking for.

Sorry for the confusion.

My response was to a comment from someone who said they didn't think they would like full time 4WD on the road unless I quoted the wrong person. My FJ40 full time 4WD is just stored away while I figure out what my plans are for it. It's not like I don't have another 40 to drive.:rolleyes: Had 100 series and still have 4Runner that both are full time 4WD. Unlocked T case is just like AWD. Which is better then just front or just rear drive. It's about 150 miles between our two homes. Have steep winding section sections on both freeway and two lane highway. Took awhile to figure out the 100 series handling but the 4Runner is a Sport Edition and would like to see any FJ40 no matter how it's built handle as well. The 100 series it was completely seamless. On the 4Runner in sharp parking lot driving I get a slight feedback I can tell it's in 4WD. Any type of rain or snow and the Sequoia is switched to 4WD open. I never see myself having a DD used between homes not having some sort of AWD.
 
In 1974-75 GM put a 4 speed manual trans in front of the full-time 203 t-case. That would get the t-case front output on passenger side. Rear diffy would need to be changed to a center pumpkin. Perfect for a Dana 60.
 
Buy a Jeep.

:meh:
 
With what I posted previously about my 80 experience, I was trying to suggest the 80 case to be an option.

Do any of you know how much HP or torque they can handle? Our 95 has the viscous coupling that does help with traction situations even before I push the button to lock or unlock it in either high or low range.

I'm also pretty sure that those cases are able to be mounted behind a Toyota manual as well.
 
Locking hubs seem to be a thing of the past on 4WDs that have a Torsen in the T case.

Yes, that's what I meant. Possibly I misunderstood @workingdog 's question; I thought he was asking if the selectable hubs were gone because they're always engaged in Cruisers with a Torsen center diff.
 
No, you understood my question. I'll my landcruisers are old.
 
Hey mate,

I sort of understand what you are trying to do... Lots of HP with an AWD so its quick. However the problem with any traditional awd system is splitting the power evenly.

Here in Australia we have the Ford Territory which is an AWD SUV which has an I6T. May guys have modified it to produce 500bhp+ and the biggest issue they face is spinning the front drivers side wheel. Effectively with an open centre differential power will only be transmitted to the axle with the least amount of grip.

So to do what you want to do you would need a transfer case with some sort of helical-gear locking mechanism (say a trutrac or wavtrac). Any sort of LSD or clutch pack arrangement will really struggle with the weight/torque you are trying to put down. The biggest problem is any of the transfer cases capable of handling that sort of power are going to be physically big or not line up with the axles.

I'm not saying to give up, just be aware most AWD systems are s*** for decent power levels. Plus i have enough problems keeping a 300hp V8 cool with a massive alloy radiator and 4000cfm fans, 500hp will be a challenge.

good luck though
 
I think what @JoeDrifter is trying to do would be fun. 500 hp in a 40 would be a kick in the pants. The biggest obstacle will be reliability.
Generally, parts that are made to handle that kind of power with 200,000 mile reliability are big and the FJ40 is a small platform....like stuffing Rodney Dangerfield in a 30" waist speedo. Best option will probably be the whole Tundra drivetrain but I doubt that will fit. Next possibility is a NV4500. It's strong and short enough to work and a good trans guy can cure the few bugs it had. T-cases from any of the big diesels should hold up and most are FT 4x4. Again I doubt they'd fit easily The nv242's are wide . The newer Borg Warners may even be bigger.
I driven a lot of 40s and a 500 hp version will be a hoot, not relaxing. At 300 Hp you can get into trouble quick . 200~ 250 is comfortable
and capable of exceeding speed limits in every jurisdiction and still within the upper limits of the drivetrain's reliability limits
 
I just don't sell ;)


When you are wheeling mud/deep snow/sand horsepower is king. So I can see some application.
 
The axles won't hold up long even if you find the tcase you're looking for. A customer and friend threw a 454 with a B&M blower in a 40 which
produced a bit more than 500hp. You'll be snapping axles and pinions. We stretched it and ran it through a built TH400 and Atlas
We build 35 spline Dana 60's and ran 42" swampers. He could be cruising in 4WD at 35mph and step on the throttle and all 4 tires would light up
and the truck would go everywhere but straight. Most of that due to tires I'm sure. The tall sidewalls on swampers would wrinkle up and unload at the slightest loss of traction

I've broke a dozen birfields, three semi float rear shafts and two full float rear shafts and a pinion with 2Fs and mild 350s. I usually run 60~70:1 final drives and all broke at a crawl speeds with very little foot in the pedal with the exception of the pinion and a full float shaft which was
in a soupy mud pit and I was on throttle. That was in a TBI 350, 200hp
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Before this fun thread finds its way to chat I just had to chime in. I was waiting for someone to get to the pinion, axles and birfs. I can hear the carnage already.
 

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