Anyone in (or around) Austin who can help a brother out?

[HawkGunner]

On the TPS there is the IDL term and the E1 ground term. This circuit is simple on/off telling the ECU the throttle is closed and vehicle is idling.
Car off and TPS unplugged. You sample tge TPS IDL with one lead and E1 with the other.
With the blade fully closed, the switch will be closed(showing continuity)
As you immediately crack the throttle, the circuit should go open(no continuity)
When it does this, tighten set screws.

It wouldn't hurt while you are there to actually check the 5V and actual sweep of the TPS.

So as soon as I nudge the throttle, it should go OL, got it.

I'll finish tuning it up tomorrow. I got the distributor reset and the timing done correctly. The truck is no longer idling funny or trying to die... just the throttle is a little off.

I appreciate all the help.

 

[HawkGunner]

I found a disconnected vacuum line... looks like it's been that way for a while?

It's connected to the 3rd (bottom) position on the vacuum tree at the back of the head near the EGR valve, but I can't determine where its supposed to be routed too after the tree.

I can't seem to figure it out on the vacuum diagram either. Maybe one of you could point me in the right direction?

The one above it is connected to the evap can, and above that one is connected to the FPR.

Thanks

ETA: Never mind. It's the vacuum hose that goes to the reed valve, which I no longer have.

Gonna plug it tomorrow and see what happens!

 

[HawkGunner]

Got it all fixed up. Ready to DD and wheel this pig!

Thanks everyone for y'alls help!

 

[gnob]

What was the fix?

 

[HawkGunner]

What was the fix?

The fuel pump.

As it would heat up, the pressure would drop from normal to about 20psi and stay there. I hooked up the pressure tester, started the engine and watch it for about 15 minutes. I originally missed it because when I tested it the first time, the pressure seemed normal

I'm a little embarrased, honestly. I should have found it much earlier.

 

[yotadude520]

The fuel pump.

As it would heat up, the pressure would drop from normal to about 20psi and stay there. I hooked up the pressure tester, started the engine and watch it for about 15 minutes. I originally missed it because when I tested it the first time, the pressure seemed normal

I'm a little embarrased, honestly. I should have found it much earlier.

It's always the easy things like this that make you want to bang your head against the wall! Glad you got it fixed!

I've been fighting this issue with my 85 F-250. I rebuilt the carb and couldn't get it to run worth a s***. After trying to tune it and get it to run richer and increase the idle mixture it turned out the fuel pump was on it's way out and was inconsistent....and of course every time I pulled the line off to verify fuel pressure it was working.

 

[HawkGunner]

It's always the easy things like this that make you want to bang your head against the wall! Glad you got it fixed!

I've been fighting this issue with my 85 F-250. I rebuilt the carb and couldn't get it to run worth a s***. After trying to tune it and get it to run richer and increase the idle mixture it turned out the fuel pump was on it's way out and was inconsistent....and of course every time I pulled the line off to verify fuel pressure it was working.

Yeah. I dunno what it is lately, but fuel pumps and related components seem to not last as long. Maybe it's the ethanol in the gas?

The pump on my FJ40 went out recently too, but I'm holding off on that repair at the moment. We're moving back to VA in a few months, so I might just strip it down and totally rebuild the LC when I get there... maybe a 3FE is in the cards?