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- #21
Wouldn't it be the left hand TRE to go in the pitman arm?
BTW, I used to live in San Salvador in the mid-80's, loved it there.
BTW, I used to live in San Salvador in the mid-80's, loved it there.
Anyone have a FJ60 steering box on a FJ40?
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You will need #25 end and 1/2 of the #29 relay rod to graft to the stock 40 rod.
- Thread starter
- #23
Ahh! Thanks for the exploded view, that's very helpful.
Most of the rig that MarkW did the article on is my rig. Since then I have done high steer and added the a pitman arm from Sky MFG. I have also added hydro assist, and still no cutting of the bib. The only issue I have is the factory pump capacity/volume at max steering. I plan on addressing that soon. I intend on retaining the pump, but I hear West Texas Offroad (the redneck ram guys) can work one for better capacity/volume.
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- #25
I'm getting close to wraping the hard stuff up. I cut a .250 thick scab plate about a foot long for the outside frame and a .125 scab plate for the inside frame and got it bolted in place with the box yesterday before calling it a day. This morning I turned some bushings on the lathe for the 4 bolts out of .750 drill rod, squared them off, drilled and reamed to .500 ID. They'll stick out from the frame when welded another .500 to space the box .750 off the frame to clear the radiator.
I'm going to turn a hacked off half a U-Joint on the lathe now to see if it's cast steel or iron. I'm hoping it's steel so I can just cut the rag joint of my 40 column and TIG the U-joint in its place.
Thanks everyone for the guidance so far. I'll shoot some pics when I get er done.
I'm going to turn a hacked off half a U-Joint on the lathe now to see if it's cast steel or iron. I'm hoping it's steel so I can just cut the rag joint of my 40 column and TIG the U-joint in its place.
Thanks everyone for the guidance so far. I'll shoot some pics when I get er done.
Your mounting bolts go all the way through the frame, did you sleeve it also?
I used some bushings in the frame to bolt everyhting on,so there is no stress on the chassis and i didn't need to weld it on.
I was only aware the West Texas modified pumps for additional flow or pressure?
There are lots of trick external resevoir options out there, and the one thing they all have in common is $$$, so I cobbled together a setup for pretty cheap that works pretty well.
Took my saginaw pump, cut off the filler and capped it with a threaded fitting. Made as tall a resevoir as I could (for efficacy while operating at high angles), and hooked that up to the threaded fitting on the pump.
You'll also notice the large transmission cooler and adapted 1.5F oil filter mount to use at a power steering fluid filter.
I messed around with inadequate power steering systems for so long I got fed up with it and installed hydro assist along with the biggest cooler, biggest resevoir, a filter and firmest pump mount I could rig up.
It ain't pretty, but it works very well on and off the road.
Another useful link- if you don't want to modify a pump, there is a saginaw already set up for an external res available-
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/256899-p-s-pump-number.html
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Damn Bailey! you need to tidy-up underneath the hood 
nasty 
nasty
It's a very effective rust and mud-prevention tactic. 
Fancy bushings, I just used some chunks of gas pipe.
However, I don't think it's a very good idea to not bolt the box to a flat surface. If you look a the mounting surface of the gearbox it has large machined flat surfaces, and I can't help thinking that is for a reason. I mounted my box flat to the outside of the frame rail and moved the radiator just enough to accommodate. You have to be looking at the underside of the mounts to tell.
I'm not saying anything I do is the best/only way (in fact certainly not
), but just tossing out what I did so you have more options to consider.Anyway, I found it pretty easy to just cut off the rag joint and pin a 3/4" bore borgeson u-joint to the end of the column. I used a 1/4" grade 8 bolt for the pin, and shimmed the ujoint so that it was an interference fit onto the column. I looked at doing two perpendicular pins, but that was not going to leave much load bearing material in the shaft.
The other side of the u-joint was 11/16 36 spline, which fits the stock FJ60 (and I imagine most other Toyota 4x4) slip shaft. You can order Borgeson and Flaming River u-joints in almost any configuration side to side you want. If I had had access to machine tools then like I do now, I would have milled the end of the steering column into a "double D" and used a ujoint that was " 3/4 DD x 11/16" 36 spline" vs the "3/4 smooth x 11/16" 36 spline" that I used.
I'll bet you already know this, but don't forget to install a pillow block bearing or other type onto the column just like the saginaw guys do.
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- Thread starter
- #31
Can't weld gas pipe, and didn't have any DOM or similar in the scrap pile.
I'll rethink the mounting, but I need to check the fan clearance before I decide to move the radiator. Since I need to make a living today, it'll have to wait till this eve.
The Toypta U-joint parts were cast steel as expected, so I took one that was at the end of a short shaft, bored it out, then turned the end of my column for a press fit and TIG'd it.
I don't know if my column was modified at some point, but I had a ball bearing installed in the base of the column already. It was smooth and secure with zero play, so I don't see any need for another bearing at the base plate.
I'll rethink the mounting, but I need to check the fan clearance before I decide to move the radiator. Since I need to make a living today, it'll have to wait till this eve.
The Toypta U-joint parts were cast steel as expected, so I took one that was at the end of a short shaft, bored it out, then turned the end of my column for a press fit and TIG'd it.
I don't know if my column was modified at some point, but I had a ball bearing installed in the base of the column already. It was smooth and secure with zero play, so I don't see any need for another bearing at the base plate.
RustyNailJustin
Supporting Vendor
What are those shackles?
Man this is an old thread like the days of the revolver shackles and Mickey Thompson tires.
cruiserkev
3 decades in the same FJ40
Well I had a 60 series box on mine up till about an hour ago... 
Those hinged shackles were popular in the 90s. Knew a couple of guys who ran them, didn't seem to help much, just made lots of noise during articulation.
Those hinged shackles were popular in the 90s. Knew a couple of guys who ran them, didn't seem to help much, just made lots of noise during articulation.
