Anybody have an Ironman lift?

[jvazquez53]

When you lift a truck to 4" you pretty much have to deal with all the same geometry issues regardless of who you buy it from.

When I install a lift for someone I try and get them to at least install caster plates, DC shaft, adjustable panhard bars, ext brake lines, sway bar drops and rear bumpstop drops.

I've had good luck with just these items alone but if you were to have an issue then addressing that would be next.

So far in 9 months the only item I had to add to my 4" kit were the adjustable panhard rods, and no driveshaft issues or any vibration and this truck is my daily driver/trail truck.

 

[landtank]

So far in 9 months the only item I had to add to my 4" kit were the adjustable panhard rods, and no driveshaft issues or any vibration and this truck is my daily driver/trail truck.

I'll take it then that you haven't properly corrected for caster then.

 

[Rusty]

So the short version of the story is that you really need the extra parts and although the Ironman kit is good, it's really not all there to do a proper job in terms of a D.C. shaft to tame drive line vibration, or bump stop extensions to control axle travel etc.

For someone like me that has no lift components installed it would probably make more sense to just buy Slee's kit because it's "all inclusive"; the Ironman kit would be comparable in price to others after the additional parts are purchased.

 

[landtank]

Lifts are like buying a stereo.

You can buy the whole package as a group from an single manufacturer or buy it piece meal from multiple sources.

While the package deal sound good, those who buy it piece meal feel they get a better sounding system which performs better and enjoy the experience of customizing their system.

Do what is comfortable for you.

 

[jvazquez53]

I'll take it then that you haven't properly corrected for caster then.

I corrected the caster with the adjustable bushings. Rods correct the axle side movement after going past the 3" mark. They bring the axle back centered. The OEM rod with the 4" lift pull the axle out of alignment. The adjustable ones correct this. My truck axles went out 1 1/2" sideways, one to the left, one to the right.

 

[landtank]

those bushings won't get the job done. That's likely why you don't have any vibrations.

 

[SiRaDuDe]

I have the same 4" lift and I used the adjustable bushings set to the max 3.5* and at my allignment shop it came out to be at 3* caster...


If I'm not mistaking, that is the stock spec for caster.

But since Jose used an extra 1" spacer at the front, I'm not sure were he would be at, maybe around 2* (wich would be the minimum)

I also have NO vibrations at all... I would have to measure my Hub/Center-to-Fender distances so we can compare apples-to-apples.

 

[SiRaDuDe]

So the short version of the story is that you really need the extra parts and although the Ironman kit is good, it's really not all there to do a proper job in terms of a D.C. shaft to tame drive line vibration, or bump stop extensions to control axle travel etc.

For someone like me that has no lift components installed it would probably make more sense to just buy Slee's kit because it's "all inclusive"; the Ironman kit would be comparable in price to others after the additional parts are purchased.

I also tought and asked about adding Bump stops, but IronMan here kept telling me that they were not needed...

I would like to know why they say that bump stops are not needed, maybe the springs are set tocompletely compress before the bump stops would be neeed? other guy (not too technical) told me the the Foam Cell shocks would act as a bump stop...

Anyways I did my homework comparing the specs of the J shocks and how they suggest a 1" stop at front with 35" tires, so I added a 1" bump stop to the front, just in case.

So far I took the LC wheeling and the suspension articulated great, a guy behind me in a jeep told me that the rear was articulating like crazy, and I got no rubbing at all..., but I'm still keeping an eye on the rear for a possible bump stop need.

This was in mud terrain, not rock climbing...

This is the outcome of that day.

I was bashing around like in 2' of MUD when I fell front first into a hidden under-mud ditch.

I was able to back out with little effort thanks to the Front & Rear Lockers.

I'm still cleaning the engine compartment of mud, that stuff was really liquid and got everywhere!

 

[landtank]

the hub to flare measurement would be good since I'm assuming the lift would produce a certain height that I've come to expect from a 4" spring on a truck with quite a few accessories.

 

[Rusty]

I also tought and asked about adding Bump stops, but IronMan here kept telling me that they were not needed...

I would like to know why they say that bump stops are not needed, maybe the springs are set tocompletely compress before the bump stops would be neeed? other guy (not too technical) told me the the Foam Cell shocks would act as a bump stop...

Anyways I did my homework comparing the specs of the J shocks and how they suggest a 1" stop at front with 35" tires, so I added a 1" bump stop to the front, just in case.

So far I took the LC wheeling and the suspension articulated great, a guy behind me in a jeep told me that the rear was articulating like crazy, and I got no rubbing at all..., but I'm still keeping an eye on the rear for a possible bump stop need.

This was in mud terrain, not rock climbing...

This is the outcome of that day.

I was bashing around like in 2' of MUD when I fell front first into a hidden under-mud ditch.

I was able to back out with little effort thanks to the Front & Rear Lockers.

I'm still cleaning the engine compartment of mud, that stuff was really liquid and got everywhere!

I'm not so worried about bump stops, they probably aren't that big a component in a kit, but things like panhard rods (which are in the 4" Ironman kit) and probably adjustable upper control arms and a front D.C. drive shaft (not in Ironman's 4" kit) I would think are important.

The lack of adjustable control arms in the kit is a bit puzzling, I would think that lifting a Cruiser 4" would also shift the axle of its OEM lateral centre line in the wheel well, especially since panhard rods are considered necessary to make adjustments in relation to the longitudinal centre line. I would think that the rear pinion angle would need adjusting as well, surely that is also a function of the adjustable control arms.

 

[yOHda]

i didnt want a lot of lift, just wanted to get rid of the stinkbug. Ironman 2" front coils, stock rear coils, procomp 9000s, 315s:

my 80 is my pickup, so unless im hauling something, which is not too often lately, its usually empty. its open behind the drivers seat too, so its more like a 3 seater. simple winch and bumper will sit the truck perfect. even without the front sway bar, the ride quality has much improved even with just new front coils and shocks all the way around. front is stiffer so the truck feels a lot more solid now on the highway. flex doesnt seem to be hindered at all either. very pleased with the ironman coils so far.

the other cool thing is this frees up the stock front coils for the rear of the 97 runner on 80 axles i just started.

 

[Bluetribal]

How well do they flex? TIA

Pretty good IMO

 

[subspd]

Anyone have some real world measurements on what these 2 and 4" lifts do? I am comparing the OME 2.5 medium springs which everyone says is more like 3" and I am not sure which would be the comparable lift.

 

[gixxin]

+1

I've been trying to decide between the 2" Ironman and the 2.5" OME.

 

[gtfour43]

+1

I've been trying to decide between the 2" Ironman and the 2.5" OME.

Get the Ironman 2" so I can see if it fits in my garage

I really want to get this lift but its gonna be close.

 

[jvazquez53]

So far in 9 months the only item I had to add to my 4" kit were the adjustable panhard rods, and no driveshaft issues or any vibration and this truck is my daily driver/trail truck.

.

This my 4.5 inch lift. The PR distributor have a 6 inch lift and he likes the 4.5 inch better.

 

[Corbet]

My 2" lift results; with TOY024C fronts and TOY013B rears. Parked on my gravel driveway so take it for what its worth. Springs have been installed for 18 months so if any settling was going to happen it did.


Right front, Left front, Right rear, Left rear
Before 19.5" 18.75" 18.75" 18.75
After 22.25" 21.5" 22.5" 22"

That yields an average lift of 3.125" across the board. Also it should be noted I added about 100lbs to the front of the truck between measurements. (2nd battery and upgraded to a bigger winch) Overall weight of my truck right now is around 6300lbs unloaded.

IMO the reason everyone gets about 3" of lift is due to the OEM's being so overloaded. I know mine were. I was almost sitting on my bumpstops with the factory springs. That was the main reason I installed the new suspension system.

 

[gixxin]

gtfour43; I'm thinking pretty hard about the Ironman. It may just depend who can get it out this way cheaper. I talked to trdparts4u and they said the 2.5"OME would cost a pretty penny to ship. Toytec gave me a local dealer that I'll call to see what I can get it for.
Corbet; Thanks for the info. Any spacer up front?

 

[Corbet]

Corbet; Thanks for the info. Any spacer up front?

Not yet. I plan to add 30mm to the front and back. They are sitting in my garage but want some additional items like adjustable panhards, longer shocks, sway bar spacers etc... Just need the funds

 

[The Jade Bean]

I'm running 3" Iron Man w/heavy springs, 1" spacer up front and foam filled rear shocks. About 3 months in and I love it. Just installed my front ARB w/winch and I didn't even notice a drop in height. I was told that the coils are also progressive so they produce more resistance as more weight is applied so you don't end up squatting if you have all your gear loaded up.
~Daniel