yes, there is. ubolts are made with a stretch factor.
ANY shackles other than STOCK length will ruin OME springs???
- Thread starter motoloco
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yes, there is. ubolts are made with a stretch factor.
- Thread starter
- #22
NO there is not. They have reached their "stretch" factor the first time they are torqed to spec. I would trust a fact. toy u-bolt over a aftermarket with a shiny new zinc coating. If they are rusty or tweaked I would not re-use them, but I dont fall into the must buy all new hardware BS.
JC,
I think what is going on here is that ARB would like you to use their shackles and they also don't want you to run 4" longer shackles front and rear. Poser, it's been a while and I know that Man-it-ant Free sells longer shackles but I thought that ARB only sold one length for the 40??? 20 or 25mm longer than stock? Is there a new one out? I'd like to know for myself! I know they make anti-inversions but I thought for only 81 and newer FJ40. I am no expert, please school me.
Before they sold anti inversion shackles (for 81 and newer), they sold a small metal plate that you welded onto the frame prevent the shackle from inverting.
I bought a set of their springs back in the early to mid 90's when I first heard about them and they wound up on my friend's truck. They inverted badly at Tellico but ARB sent him a new set under warranty and the metal plates. This is why I think they want you to run what they sell. So they can better stand behind it when and if you have a problem. If you had home made, crappy or some whacky double shackle, they can't warranty it as easily. Same applies to a spring over or a shackle reversal, that is not what they designed the springs for - if you run them in that configuration and have a problem, it's your problem not theirs...if you run as a part of their whole system and have a problem then they will stand behind it.
I'd have to agree with IGE about the Ubolts. You should get new ones, true a bolt stretches every time that you put torque onto it but then gets shorter with out tension (racers and the aerospace industry often measure stretch vs. torque). It is amazing how metal fatigued they can be on old trucks - they just snap when you try to take them off were as newer ones will just flex like a torsion bar when you try to take them off. Listen to how loud the snap is when you cut them off and then should speak to how much tension they are under!
I'd say you can run slightly longer shackles no problem though, I'd never had any trouble but I don't wheel that hard.
-Stumbaugh
I think what is going on here is that ARB would like you to use their shackles and they also don't want you to run 4" longer shackles front and rear. Poser, it's been a while and I know that Man-it-ant Free sells longer shackles but I thought that ARB only sold one length for the 40??? 20 or 25mm longer than stock? Is there a new one out? I'd like to know for myself! I know they make anti-inversions but I thought for only 81 and newer FJ40. I am no expert, please school me.
Before they sold anti inversion shackles (for 81 and newer), they sold a small metal plate that you welded onto the frame prevent the shackle from inverting.
I bought a set of their springs back in the early to mid 90's when I first heard about them and they wound up on my friend's truck. They inverted badly at Tellico but ARB sent him a new set under warranty and the metal plates. This is why I think they want you to run what they sell. So they can better stand behind it when and if you have a problem. If you had home made, crappy or some whacky double shackle, they can't warranty it as easily. Same applies to a spring over or a shackle reversal, that is not what they designed the springs for - if you run them in that configuration and have a problem, it's your problem not theirs...if you run as a part of their whole system and have a problem then they will stand behind it.
I'd have to agree with IGE about the Ubolts. You should get new ones, true a bolt stretches every time that you put torque onto it but then gets shorter with out tension (racers and the aerospace industry often measure stretch vs. torque). It is amazing how metal fatigued they can be on old trucks - they just snap when you try to take them off were as newer ones will just flex like a torsion bar when you try to take them off. Listen to how loud the snap is when you cut them off and then should speak to how much tension they are under!
I'd say you can run slightly longer shackles no problem though, I'd never had any trouble but I don't wheel that hard.
-Stumbaugh
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- Thread starter
- #25
Stumbaugh, I hear you are comming through colorado soon to work some magic on this 45 frame
as to the u-bolts, if you have new ones great but they are not a must if your working with good ones, we can agree to dissagree. I have a few things in my shop I would like to show you if you have time when your here. good luck with the across country move, what a PITA!
as to the u-bolts, if you have new ones great but they are not a must if your working with good ones, we can agree to dissagree. I have a few things in my shop I would like to show you if you have time when your here. good luck with the across country move, what a PITA!
Tankota
SILVER Star
You're just doing it all wrong. I have 8" shackles on my front end with no problems at all.
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They are through the frame with a 45* angle on a shackle reversal with wagoneer springs
As for shackles with OME springs...do what the manufacturer says.
I gave up on suspension kits in the early 90s when I broke 3 rancho springs in a year (btw, that's also when I learned that front mounted shackles are not a good idea to begin with)
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They are through the frame with a 45* angle on a shackle reversal with wagoneer springs
As for shackles with OME springs...do what the manufacturer says.
I gave up on suspension kits in the early 90s when I broke 3 rancho springs in a year (btw, that's also when I learned that front mounted shackles are not a good idea to begin with)
i rock the mojo lifto no worries at all
Man, that is sweet.
Yeah, those Coleman camp chairs are super comfortable.
Alan,
as to your issue on the rt frt inversion shackle, Are you running the stock bumper? I know the inversion shackes need to have the bumper side stay to bump up against. When I welded up my front bumper I put some 1/4 " plate wehre the bracket would have been.
Dave
as to your issue on the rt frt inversion shackle, Are you running the stock bumper? I know the inversion shackes need to have the bumper side stay to bump up against. When I welded up my front bumper I put some 1/4 " plate wehre the bracket would have been.
Dave
Josie'sLandCruiser
Stop calling it a "FJ."
Hi All:
Dan, can you explain a bit more in depth what you mean by "bumper side stay." If you mean the triangular mounting plates that the stock front bumper uses, my rig still has 'em (I intregrated into the mounting system for my new front bumper.)
Thanks!
Alan
Dan, can you explain a bit more in depth what you mean by "bumper side stay." If you mean the triangular mounting plates that the stock front bumper uses, my rig still has 'em (I intregrated into the mounting system for my new front bumper.)
Thanks!
Alan
Talk to any spring shop and they will explain to you why it should be done. Most of these spring shops even explain it on the net too. In a nut shell the threads are not cut but rolled. First time they reach proper torque they deform the threads. After that proper torque can never be achieved. They sometimes break when trying to take them off because the threads are deformed. Also when proper torque cannot be achieved the spring can suffer fatigue and break.
If you don't replace them it's just an excuse for being cheap
- Thread starter
- #34
I have replaced them with 95% of the kits I have installed, IF YO DONT HAVE THEM, YOU CAN STILL GO WHEELIN! JESUS dont be a sally!
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