Any helpful bushings replacement tips and tricks? (1 Viewer)

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Hey,

I have been experiencing major cupping or scalloping on my rear tires. Thought it was a shock issue. Replaced the rear shocks and took a look at the bushings in the lower conrtol arm. They are shot.

Before I dive into replacing these buggers, I thought there may be some heplful tips.
*Can I drive out the old bushings with a vice? Do I need to have a shop press the old out and press new in? Can I press new in with a vice?
*Should I jack up rig before removing control arms? Is there a way to lock down rear axle before removing?
*Used ratchett straps to align front control arms when I installed iron pig skid plate years ago. Should I use similiar method with rear axle?

How many bananas is a bushing replacement? Seems straightforward but what do I know.

Any tips are appreciated!

Thanks
 
There are several YouTube videos out there detailing the job… have you looked?

I hole sawed out the bushings in a drill press, hacked the thin shell, and used a 20ton pneumatic Harbor Freight press with foot pedal (key if you’re soloing this adventure), and a couple Pittsburgh metric sockets. Vice won’t work, other than to hold the arms…

This was the front radius arms, but process was the same for all ten in the rear.

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Can I drive out the old bushings with a vice?
Hell no! You'll likely damage the thread in the vice before bushings pop free
Do I need to have a shop press the old out and press new in?
yes, or cut out the old ones, and take arms and bushes to a local mechanic and pay them to press them in

Can I press new in with a vice?
unlikely

*Should I jack up rig before removing control arms?
Gives you more room to move.

Is there a way to lock down rear axle before removing?
Remove and replace one side at a time. A strap might be helpful to keep axle in position, or to adjust position while reinstalling.
 
I wouldn't do it with anything less than a 20 ton shop press, a good set of press plates and properly sized press dies. I'm happy with the set I got from Trail Tailor.
 
Or you can order Mevotech Supreme rear lowers for 100 each with bushings installed.
The tubing for the arm is larger and heavier wall.
 
I did it with a 12 ton as well, but at full load the bushings didn't budge so I swatted the top bar of the press with a deadblow hammer and that got things moving.
tips:
Put never-seez on the new bushings and they slide right in. (with the press)
Properly sized bushing sleaves to press out the old ones is critical. A set of sockets will generally get you close enough.

While the RLCA's are out, armour them, if that's your thing.
 
I did it with a 12 ton as well, but at full load the bushings didn't budge so I swatted the top bar of the press with a deadblow hammer and that got things moving.
Tap the control arm with a steel or brass hammer gets them moving too.

I always give the arms a light sand and grease them lightly too so there's as little friction as possible
 
Another option if you have them on the shelf: Loctite LB 8012 (Moly paste) or Molykote G-N paste (Moly), swiped on both metal surfaces before pressing in the new bushings. The LB 8012 is a 65% Molybdenum lubricant which you can brush on.
FWIW
 
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Thanks for the imput guys. I'll find a shop with a press instead of buying the 12 ton press from harbor freight. Only $169 but the wife would hang me if I got another use once and store tool.
 
Thanks for the imput guys. I'll find a shop with a press instead of buying the 12 ton press from harbor freight. Only $169 but the wife would hang me if I got another use once and store tool.

Have them give you a price first.
Couple of hours of shop time $$, the Harbor Freight option might look more appealing
 
And you can always sell it later. Or you'll find other uses for it.
 
So, the 1st shop I contacted about doing the bushing job quoted $250 per hour. They also could not believe I would remove the control arms myself and just let them do the press work.

Harbor freight has the 20 ton press on sale for $199 through the end of July. Decided to go that route.

But 1st I have to deal with another issue. I thought all the noise coming from the back end of the rig was coming from my trashed rear tires. After replacing the tires the noise persisted. Going to replace the wheel bearings with some new Koyos this weekend and start the bushings job next week.
 
Nice move. If you also have an engine hoist it's a great way to hold the other end of the control arm at the right height (especially when it comes to the front arms). Stacking things to the right height works too but When the old bushing starts to move it sounds like a shot gun and anything not secured on the press/arm is gonna take flight. wear ear protection.
 
Nice move. If you also have an engine hoist it's a great way to hold the other end of the control arm at the right height (especially when it comes to the front arms). Stacking things to the right height works too but When the old bushing starts to move it sounds like a shot gun and anything not secured on the press/arm is gonna take flight. wear ear protection.
I use the roller supports for saw out feed. they work the nuts for that kind thing.
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I pick them up at yard sales for 5-10 bucks.
 
Remove and replace one side at a time. A strap might be helpful to keep axle in position, or to adjust position while reinstalling.

I did the strap and that helped alot.

Like everybody said, these suck to press out. I like to push out the rubber with a press, cut the outer metal sleeve of the bushing with a sawsall, and then pressing the new bushing in. You can do it with a 12 ton
I did this method today and nicked where the bushing goes in with the Sawzall. Should I fill this in with steel stick or something? Don't want to sand it down. See pic below.

And I might be over thinking this but do I need to paint the arm inside where the bushing. goes? It seems like it was painted before. I plain on repainting the arms anyway.

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Leave it and don't paint.
 

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