Another wet doors/speaker install thread... (1 Viewer)

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Hi guys,

Having a hell of a time rebuilding my speakers and door panels after discovering a major leak over the winter.

So the sthort story is the PO replaced the factory speakers with aftermarket ones. Basically he put them on the outside of the door panels, and screwed them into the doors with self tapping screws. What happens when it rains is the water leaks down the door onto the speakers, and because there was no tight seal between the speaker and the door, the water leaks in through the opening, leaks onto the cardboard part of the door panel soaking it through, and even worse it was leaking into pockets of the plastic moisture barrier and was forming rust spots on the doors. This is happening on all four doors.

Here is a crappy diagram of how it was setup before:

IMG_8092.JPG


I have read what feels like every thread on speaker installs on mud, got the speaker set and spacers that many folks recommended, but still running into issues.

I am operating under the assumption that there has to be a tight seal between the metal part of the door, and either the spacer or the speaker to prevent the water from leaking through.

I bought the Polk Audio DB651 6.5" kit that a lot of people recommended in various threads.

The issue I am having with the front is that the spacers aren't fitting tightly against the doors because of the four round tabs where the speaker actually gets screwed into. Since I can't achieve a tight seal, it will likely result in the same problem I had before with the water leaking. Short of putting a rubber or foam seal of some sort below the spacers, which would likely push the speaker out too far where it would hit the dashboard, not sure what else to do.

Has anyone solved this?

IMG_2832.JPG


It gets a lot worse with the back speakers. The PO cut out larger holes to fit 5 1/4" speakers, mangling the entire surface in the process. The way it's now I am not sure whether a tight seal is even possible since all of the holes for mounting points are at very different depths:

IMG_3726.JPG


I took the truck to two stereo shops (not many of those left in the area), all of which do custom work. Both scratched their heads and the only suggestion they came up with is to do something similar to the solution found in this thread - making a cutout out of Dynamat to make a cup surrounding the speaker.


I have a lot of concerns going this route, mainly around the fact that if I ever wanted to remove it for some reason I'd had to tear off the dynamat which is a major pain, and also because the paper/sticky side of dynamat could eventually make contact with the glass/glass hardware after a winter of taking on water.

What would mud do??
 
The spacers will fit tight against the front doors if you put a chamfer on the tabs with a sander.
 
The spacers will fit tight against the front doors if you put a chamfer on the tabs with a sander.
Challenge with doing that is that the holes in the speaker frames line up perfectly with the holes in the tabs.

So the holes already drilled into the spacers look like they are designed to screw into the stock plastic mounting tabs in the door.

And the speakers are meant to screw into the tabs on the spacers.

Do I have that right?
 
Challenge with doing that is that the holes in the speaker frames line up perfectly with the holes in the tabs.

So the holes already drilled into the spacers look like they are designed to screw into the stock plastic mounting tabs in the door.

And the speakers are meant to screw into the tabs on the spacers.

Do I have that right?
I think that sounds right.

It's been a while since I did mine.
 
If I remember correctly, I drilled through those holes in the tabs and into the door, and used longer screws for a more solid mount.
 
I removed the outer ring of the speaker with a dremel. The inner ring of the spacer will fit, but not the outer. However, you will need to trim some from your door panel if you got this route.

No, the back of the speakers aren't protected from the elements. I placed speaker baffles behind my spacers, but cut the bottom portions out.
 
I removed the outer ring of the speaker with a dremel. The inner ring of the spacer will fit, but not the outer. However, you will need to trim some from your door panel if you got this route.

No, the back of the speakers aren't protected from the elements. I placed speaker baffles behind my spacers, but cut the bottom portions out.


Speaker baffles? What are those?
 
I removed the outer ring of the speaker with a dremel. The inner ring of the spacer will fit, but not the outer. However, you will need to trim some from your door panel if you got this route.

No, the back of the speakers aren't protected from the elements. I placed speaker baffles behind my spacers, but cut the bottom portions out.

My spacer ring is just 1 ring - no inner or outer ring. It had a bunch of tabs on the outside. Most of the tabs could be snapped off, but the four I highlighted in my picture above cannot be snapped off - I would have to grind them off, but then I will have no way to screw the speaker into the spacer - will have to go directly into the door. I will post pics of this tonight.

Any thoughts on what to do in the rear? That looks majorly messed up.
 
So very intrigued by the speaker baffle idea. Just measured the depth from the door edge to the window run mechanism, and I am at 1 1/4" shallowest depth in the rear, and about 1.5" in the front.

The slimmest baffles I can seem to find are 2.5" depth, and they are considered "slim line".

Those who used baffles, what depth did you get and how did you mount them? Directly onto the door?
 
I used the Boom Mat 5-1/4" slim baffles which were 2-1/2" deep sandwiched between door and speaker. They do press against the window run - but no issues. Diameter was a bit small for me - but you can stretch around the circumference to enlarge. I also cut a square in the baffle bottom.

What type of spacers did you use?
 
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Haven’t used any yet. Trying to formulate a strategy before I actually start bolting stuff in.
Ideally want to use the ones supplied with the speakers because they fit them correctly.
 
I did not use the spacer rings. I tore out the stock plastic screw receivers. I drilled new holes for speakers. Then I used 1/2" of self adhesive high density foam around the speaker hole. This is between the door and the panel, with the speaker attached from the outside, compressing the foam on install with 1.5" screws to reach. This does not push the panel out for me.

I also have water proof foam lining the door panel. Through a car wash no leaks, but guess I will find out this winter.

Try making sure the speaker ring, or whatever you use, is flush and install 1/8" foam tape between ring and door. Then maybe sealant on the screw threads before driving them in.

This is my guessing advice just FYI. Total novice here.
 
When my driver's door panel was off I drove around a few days with just
the vapor barrier in place. During a rain I noticed that a ton of water
was trickling past the outer molding and down inside the door cavity then out the drain holes at the bottom. Anything inside the door cavity will get wet for sure.

I also used that foam hat baffle thingy for the front speaker, cut away maybe 40% of the lower aspect essentially using the half baffle as rain hat for the speaker. I think I cut it partly open on the underside after reading something about leaving some air space behind the speaker for better sound?? IDK.

I used plumbers 1/16" red rubber sheet gasket (two layers) cut in a circle to use as a spacer for the Polk speakers up front. That type tubber is fairly dense
and doesn't compress much when you snug the screws down for the speaker.

Very important to get a water tight seal when you reinstall the vapor barrier.
I used clear vinyl tape to seal a large hole the PO left behind (and hadn't sealed).
 
Does anyone have a picture of what the door drain holes should look like? I don't have this speaker problem, but now I'm paranoid that I have a bunch of water in my doors.
 
A plastic zip tie also works well to keep those holes open, like the slit
drains on the underside of the rocker panels, however IME they don't tend to clog up. The holes don't need to be enlarged, they look small but they just need to allow a trickle of water out.

FWIW, while I had my door apart to fix the window lift motor and regulator
I cleaned out the door cavity then sprayed 3M Rust Fighter (Cavity wax) onto all the inner seams and lower aspect of the door cavity, being careful not to plug the holes.
 
I had the same water intrusion problem and it ended up being water dripping onto the speaker wire. Water tension allowed the water to run along the wire and drip into the panel making it appear the speaker was the water magnet. A couple zipties to pull the wires toward the interior of the vehicle and I haven't had a water problem since.
 
I had the same water intrusion problem and it ended up being water dripping onto the speaker wire. Water tension allowed the water to run along the wire and drip into the panel making it appear the speaker was the water magnet. A couple zipties to pull the wires toward the interior of the vehicle and I haven't had a water problem since.

Interesting. I did the same with mine (looked under running water) and between seeing the water drip down the housing, and also rust on the speaker frame, realized that it's actually rolling into the door panel because there was no tight seal between the speaker head the door panel.
 
I used plumbers 1/16" red rubber sheet gasket (two layers) cut in a circle to use as a spacer for the Polk speakers up front. That type tubber is fairly dense
and doesn't compress much when you snug the screws down for the speaker.

Very important to get a water tight seal when you reinstall the vapor barrier.
I used clear vinyl tape to seal a large hole the PO left behind (and hadn't sealed).

Where did you get the plumber's rubber gasket sheets? Link?

I think this may help me solve the fronts, where the surface is straight.

But for the back speakers, not sure what to do since the mounting surface is so jagged and uneven.
 
I did not use the spacer rings. I tore out the stock plastic screw receivers. I drilled new holes for speakers. Then I used 1/2" of self adhesive high density foam around the speaker hole. This is between the door and the panel, with the speaker attached from the outside, compressing the foam on install with 1.5" screws to reach. This does not push the panel out for me.

What kind of foam did you use, and where did you get it? Did it conform to an uneven surface, filling gaps in depth? My back speaker holes are jacked and I need a way to fill them/even them out.

I also have water proof foam lining the door panel. Through a car wash no leaks, but guess I will find out this winter.

Where did you get the foam lining? And what does it look like? Does it cover your whole door panel?

Try making sure the speaker ring, or whatever you use, is flush and install 1/8" foam tape between ring and door. Then maybe sealant on the screw threads before driving them in.

That's what I am hoping to accomplish with this foam tape, or something similar. But need to figure out whether it will conform to a jagged surface?
 

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