Amazon. It is in different thicknesses and conforms. That is all the factory uses....
Amazon product ASIN B07477J8KL
My panel. Also Amazon.
Amazon product ASIN B07TKXMPH7
Last edited:
Another wet doors/speaker install thread... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter digitalmarker
- Start date
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Amazon. It is in different thicknesses and conforms. That is all the factory uses....
Amazon product ASIN B07477J8KL
My panel. Also Amazon.
Amazon product ASIN B07TKXMPH7
- Thread starter
- #22
so I got the foam today. I think this is the way to go - it’s the right thickness to space out for the spacer.
probably a dumb question but... is this stuff waterproof?
I got a bunch of different kinds and most of them say “water resistant” In the description - not sure if that means actually water proof?
JaketheSSnake
SILVER Star
Bookmarked for later. When I got my 80, the ds rear door card was all messed up and creased in half. I've noticed a damp, but barely wet floor quite a few times. I guess I know where to start now
- Thread starter
- #24
Ok guys, it was a long weekend of trial and error, mostly error.
Here is where I landed with the front doors:
Found the right thickness of the foam adhesive tape, put it around the speaker hole, shaved down the angles on the spacer ring. Installed the new vapor barrier and reconnected everythin. Everything seems spaced properly to install the speakers on the outside of the door panel.
Was ready to reinstall everything else and attach the speakers, but realized that the cardboard part of the door panel, which is sandwiched between the spacer ring and the foam ring/speaker on the other side, is still subject to getting water on it. For reference here is what the door panels look like today after getting water on them for years:
Here is where I landed with the front doors:
Found the right thickness of the foam adhesive tape, put it around the speaker hole, shaved down the angles on the spacer ring. Installed the new vapor barrier and reconnected everythin. Everything seems spaced properly to install the speakers on the outside of the door panel.
Was ready to reinstall everything else and attach the speakers, but realized that the cardboard part of the door panel, which is sandwiched between the spacer ring and the foam ring/speaker on the other side, is still subject to getting water on it. For reference here is what the door panels look like today after getting water on them for years:
- Thread starter
- #25
One idea I had was to wrap the outside of the speaker ring area with electrical tape to prevent water from soaking into the cardboard, so that all edges of the “sandwich” are water repellent - something like this:
Any thoughts on this solution? Is there something more reliable/lasting I can do to protect the edge of the cardboard piece? Feels like I am close, but the electrical tape approach seems a bit hacked... wondering if there is a better way to seal off the cardboard?
Any thoughts on this solution? Is there something more reliable/lasting I can do to protect the edge of the cardboard piece? Feels like I am close, but the electrical tape approach seems a bit hacked... wondering if there is a better way to seal off the cardboard?
- Thread starter
- #26
Ok got my answer... the tape came unstuck overnight.
Any thoughts of what I could use to wrap around the speaker opening to protect the cardboard?
Any thoughts of what I could use to wrap around the speaker opening to protect the cardboard?
That's what baffles are for.
Be careful spacing the speaker out without spacing the grill. I did this on a previous 80 and the rubber on the speaker tore from chaffingon the grill. YMMV
Be careful spacing the speaker out without spacing the grill. I did this on a previous 80 and the rubber on the speaker tore from chaffingon the grill. YMMV
- Thread starter
- #28
What do you mean by “without spacing the grill”? The grills I have are actually from another set of speakers that look better and allow room for the cone to travel. Is that what you mean?
Mine says resistant, as do most.
OE is speaker to door, not speaker on outside. To get a seal similar, you will need to line your speaker ring with a thin foam gasket topside as well.
You will also need to wrap the leading edge of the door card/speaker hole that's made of cardboard, it is still susceptible to wicking. That or paint a sealer on there.
I have done neither just FYI.
Sounds like you're sorted - was referring to stock grills.
- Thread starter
- #31
Wrapping the edge is exactly what i am trying to do, but struggling to find the right material. Thought of rubber u-channel shape edge protector, but haven’t found one locally and not sure it will wrap in a clean circle without bunching or folding. And electrical tape didn’t work.
Apologies for resurrecting audio threads as I dig deep trying to figure out how to replace the speakers.
What did you end up doing to seal the door card? can you brush on something like flex seal?
My truck is a mess since the PO totally boogered my speaker install, I am following along with this.
- Thread starter
- #34
I abandoned the plan of installing the speaker on the outside of the door panel. I know a lot of folks on here do that, but IMO this approach is guaranteed to cause the same leaking problems that started this mess in the first place. The fact is, there has to be a water tight seal between the speaker and the door. I am willing to sacrifice sound quality and go with a shallower speaker to ensure proper fit and prevent rusty doors and wet carpet/door cards when it rains.
The way I did the fronts is install the sticky foam padding on the circumference of the speaker hole, installed the speaker onto that to form a tight seal.
I then had to enlarge the speaker hole opening on the door card to allow enough space so it doesn’t interfere with the cone.
For the rears, I found a body shop that will weld in flat metal “donut” rings into the jagged holes that the previous owner butchered, so I have a flat surface to do the same thing I did in the front - foam padding and speaker on top of it.
I’ll post pics when it’s all said and done.
The way I did the fronts is install the sticky foam padding on the circumference of the speaker hole, installed the speaker onto that to form a tight seal.
I then had to enlarge the speaker hole opening on the door card to allow enough space so it doesn’t interfere with the cone.
For the rears, I found a body shop that will weld in flat metal “donut” rings into the jagged holes that the previous owner butchered, so I have a flat surface to do the same thing I did in the front - foam padding and speaker on top of it.
I’ll post pics when it’s all said and done.
Thinking about doing some improvements to my doors (I have to take them apart anyway) and I came across this thread. So @TYM4FUN way you add 4mm to the door card, the extra space seems desirable for speakers, gives a bit of sound deadening and it would protect the cardboard from moisture in the door (I'm still thinking about applying some kind of glue or sealant to the edges of this 33 year old cardboard). But does it cause any spacing issues getting it back on the door now that the cards ~4mm thicker? (less however much the foam compresses)
