Another stubborn crank bolt (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Threads
16
Messages
413
Location
New Idria 95043
1997 1zfe

Hey guy I know this is popular topic that’s been widely discussed I’m running out of options

Methods I’ve attempted
- crank holding tool with 1/2” and 3/4” breaker
- Makita impact
- Milwaukee 2767-20 impact
- 2 bump starts then Milwaukee

Up next
~ crank holder with 2 3/4 breakers with cheater bars
~ heat then impact or breakers
~ heat then bump start

Was thinking of buying an induction heat tool for the bolt.

Side notes
*I ran the Milwaukee for 4 cycles at about 30 seconds , tried small bursts also.
*crank holder tool/plate style with 1/2”&3/4” drive. So the holding drives don’t allow the breaker drive to completely engage into the holding plate. I’m tempted to put washers on the bolts holding it to the flywheel but I’m afraid the bolts might sheer off.
*North Star amg battery was definitely pushing juice to the starter. And I only tried the bump start 2 times


All tips and suggestions would be greatly appreciate, I’m in the Bay Area if someone is game to tackle the challenge.

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Tow it down to a shop that has an air powered impact gun that will fit in there. Electric's are cool but when you really need to hammer the crap out of something, air is the only way. A good 1/2" air impact will hammer twice as fast and with 1100+ ft/lbs of torque. A good 3/4" impact will hammer the same speed as an electric but with 1400+ ft/lbs and you can hammer on it till you run out of air. Kinda sounds like they put red loctite on that bolt or the good Toyota stuff at some point. Trying to do that job with a hand tool is only going to break something. You need the hammering of an impact to get it loose.
 
Tow it down to a shop that has an air powered impact gun that will fit in there. Electric's are cool but when you really need to hammer the crap out of something, air is the only way. A good 1/2" air impact will hammer twice as fast and with 1100+ ft/lbs of torque. A good 3/4" impact will hammer the same speed as an electric but with 1400+ ft/lbs and you can hammer on it till you run out of air. Kinda sounds like they put red loctite on that bolt or the good Toyota stuff at some point. Trying to do that job with a hand tool is only going to break something. You need the hammering of an impact to get it I’l
 
I’ll look into renting an air gun and compressor at the local tool rental place.
 
Make sure it will fit. Not all airguns will fit between the bolt and the a/c condenser or core support. Sucks to get started and the gun is 1/2" too long...
 
Tow it down to a shop that has an air powered impact gun that will fit in there. Electric's are cool but when you really need to hammer the crap out of something, air is the only way. A good 1/2" air impact will hammer twice as fast and with 1100+ ft/lbs of torque. A good 3/4" impact will hammer the same speed as an electric but with 1400+ ft/lbs and you can hammer on it till you run out of air. Kinda sounds like they put red loctite on that bolt or the good Toyota stuff at some point. Trying to do that job with a hand tool is only going to break something. You need the hammering of an impact to get it loose.
A few months ago when I did mine (engine was out) I used my trusty IR titanium 1/2 impact. Little pancake compressor was a no go. Fired up the 80 gallon, let her rip, after about a minute I was going to give up. But noticed a little tiny movement. After that, it was all over but the crying.
Oddly, 1 panhard bolt would not budge with the same setup. A 4 foot cheater worked
 
Unless you can hold the flywheel very securely, crank bolts are the one exception to the bring a bigger lever to the party rule. I've slipped clutches, stripped teeth off the ring gear, broken 3/4" ratchets and sheared off crank bolts before trying to do them by hand. Never broken anything except a socket hammering on one with an impact, but tomorrow might be the day...
 
I just did this job and was shocked that my 1/2” ancient impact took off the bolt. They really do have much more power than electric impacts,( though I’m very jealous of your electric impacts, those are premium tools). I Had it hooked up to an equally ancient 20 gallon compressor designed for painting. I garaged saled the compressor and got the impact at a thrift shop/estate sale place.

Air tools are in your future. They last a long time and punch way above their weight.
 
I had to make a crank pulley tool and use 3/4 “ breaker bars. The one bar I was pulling on had a 6’ cheater on it. Finally broke free.
 
Definitely don't do any more of the 'bump start' thing.

An impact is going to be the answer. I was able to remove mine no problem with a 1/2" AirCat 1150.

I agree with the others that there seems to be a marked difference between air impacts and electric.

The 'break away' torque necessary to remove the bolt can be several times the dynamic torque (304 lb. ft) to install it.

The bolt may have had a thread locker applied at some point or just experienced some thread corrosion. So....it wouldn't be unreasonable to expect upwards of 800 lb. ft. of torque to remove it.
 
I tried to get mine off for months myself. What worked for me was the 3/4" breaker bar like you have with a 6ft cheater bar slid over it. I had to remove my hood for it to fit.
 
I just did this job and was shocked that my 1/2” ancient impact took off the bolt. They really do have much more power than electric impacts,( though I’m very jealous of your electric impacts, those are premium tools). I Had it hooked up to an equally ancient 20 gallon compressor designed for painting. I garaged saled the compressor and got the impact at a thrift shop/estate sale place.

Air tools are in your future. They last a long time and punch way above their weight.
The Makita was a rental, the Milwaukee I purchased, about 10 people on Facebook said the Milwaukee would make easy work of it.
 
I saw one of these in my summit racing catalog…they are not cheap but super cool. Compare with simple 1/2” impact price wise. Shop air is really helpful for so many things.

You’ll get lots of mileage out of that Milwaukee system, but not for this project apparently.
 
I had similar issues on my son's truck. I ended with a 3/4 braker bar and a 7 foot Dom tube. It took a lot out of me but did the job
 
I had similar issues on my son's truck. I ended with a 3/4 braker bar and a 7 foot Dom tube. It took a lot out of me but did the job
Did you remove the hood? How did you hold the crank while applying torque?
 
Just checking that you had the Milwaukee impact set to the highest setting?

I have the medium torque Milwaukee impact and there's nary a bolt it hasn't broken loose yet, but the crank bolt is a different animal.

Did you really let it crank on the bolt for a while before stopping?
 

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