another shop project.

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What are you sheathing the walls with?

How specific are you going to be with the layout during design, and how constant do you think that will remain over time? Really hard to change the wiring in the walls after the fact.

I'd be inclined to put some wiring in the walls for constants. 110v outlets every x feet, 220v outlet for the lift that will never move, 220v outlet near where the welders will live. After that, plan on running conduit.

I like conduit.
 
Shops are fun. We just finished a 40x60. I am looking at a 10kAS for ours as well.

How are you going to finish out the interior walls? We are at the figure out how to finish interior and getting electricity sorted stage. Ours is a pole barn style, so I am thinking of doing studs 2' OC and using batt for insulation and then sheeting with 5/8" OSB. I'd love to spray foam, but cost prohibitive. Are you looking at any other heating or cooling other than the radiant floor system?

I have been in the planning stages for either a new shop or an addition to the current shop for a while, keeps me occupied. I plan on doing the shop just like the barn as far as sheathing. 3/4" G1S plywood on the interior, glued and screwed to the studs. All conduit, plumbing and air lines to be mounted on the surface. The big idea of the 3/4" ply over OSB is being able to attach pretty much anything, anywhere to the walls. It will hold a great deal of weight as well.
 
Hannah and I busted butt this weekend installing the pex, Garrett and I built a riser for the distribution manifold.

The concrete gets poured today.

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It all looks real now!! Can't wait to see the rest.
 
I guess I've got to get started on my garage next.
 
yes i tested it to an extent. the cheap fitting air valve that was provided didn't seal real well with thread sealant or Teflon tape. it did hold pressure but, had a very slow bleed. i sprayed a lot of soapy water and found a slight bubble at the air fitting. it was too late to search for another and i had to be at work the next day. so either it works or doesn't at this point. i tried 5 or 6 places and no one retuned my email of messages. Jose was referred and pretty easy to work with . he (his brother/son) did the digging and forms. he has been doing this line of work fro 25year and has some skills with a bobcat. I wasn't on site for the pour (had to work) but everything looked good when i got home. he still has a little bit of cleanup/grading to do tomorrow and ( i cringe at this) cut some relief lines in the pad. i asked him at least ten time are you sure you want to do that? cause if you cut the pex your going to fix it. he continually assured me it would be fine. consumed 1200' of pex-b , about 600 zip ties, 65 tons of stone and 22 yards of cement.
 
Yum. Will have to get that guy's contact info from you.

4 loops of pex through the slab? 100% I'd pressure test before and after the relief cuts are made. Cuts are the best for a workspace, as opposed to troweled expansion joints. Less space for cart/hoist/whatever wheels to fall into. I hate the troweled joints in the cement pad next to my garage.

Also, they can set the depth of the cut on the cutting machine, assuming they're not doing it with a handheld saw. If they're using a cutting machine, there's much less risk of nicking a line.
 
Not sure if this helps, but the saw cuts that he will be making will likely be 1/2" to 3/4" deep, so if the pex is as deep in the slab as it appears in the pictures, he/you shouldn't have anything to worry about.
 
The saw blade can be adjusted to the depth the cut needs to be. I was and am not an expert but I have cut a lot of concrete when I was a plumber in my previous life and I never had any issues with damaging anything.
 
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