another shop project.

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Day 2. The building is up.
Ordered the lift and some radiant barrier foil for the fisrt part of the wall insulation.
Waiting on a quote for the garage doors now that they take some measurements.
Duke power should be here this afternoon to determine service path and meter placement

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That's a pretty slick system. I haven't seen that type of tube steel construction before. I mean I read what you put about it, but in my mind it was going to be like an industrial red-iron style building. It looks great.

What lift did you end up going with?

Ho do you plan to finish out the interior? Stick frame, USB, plywood? I'm in the middle of this part myself and getting the interior walls sheeted and insulated so I can start getting shelves in is where I'm at, that and figuring out the electricity situation.
 
I ended up going with an Atlas 2-post "OH-10X" Ex-Tall/Ex-Wide 2 Post Lift 10,000 lbs it seemed to fit my need and budget.

still don't know how i will finish out the walls. the end walls are 3" wide and the side walls are 6" thick.

the 1st step is to take some 4' x 8' x 1" foam board and rip it in about 2" wide strips then spray the back and one side with 3m 77 spray adhesive then stick it to the inside of the metal and the frame ( the frames are on 60" center so there is a 58" span between the fame verticals. i will post up some pictures when i start). once i have the perimeter of the frame covered then i will spray the front side and attach some double sided foil to the foam board ( think of a picture frame with canvas on it). this will create a 1" dead air space or gap between the metal and the foil. i figure this will do to two things:
1. allow the radiant heat to bounce off the foil back to metal skin stopping the transfer if heat into the the building.
2. create an air gap so the outside air and the inside air don't have a common surface thus minimizing moisture buildup.

once i get the inside walls to this point i will run the conduit and such and then insulate around everything up to edge of the frame.
i haven't put much thought past this point. sort of depends on how i decide to handle storage/shelving, etc.
 
What’s your plan for the floor?

I used this densifier product and burnished it in with a buffer. It’s held up pretty good and best part is it eliminates the concrete dusting.

Also allows the option of sealing later.
 
be mindful of what you apply to the foam panels. i have seen some succumb to the solvents of adhesives. personally i would just cut them to fit tightly between the uprights. also know the foam panels should have sheetrock / fire barrier over it. i would bury plywood in the walls where i would put shelving and such.
 
fourtrax said:
Do tell some more info. Still looking at options on the floor
Click to expand...

Here is a thread I did on the garage site with deets.

Densifier Applied - Nice Results

Just finished applying a floor covering to my new garage build. I was torn b/w an acid stain or clear sealer. Since I couldn't decide and wanted to go ahead and move stuff in, I chose to go with a densifier...keeping my options open if I wanted to apply a sealer or acid stain at a later date...
www.garagejournal.com www.garagejournal.com

edit: I have some burnishing pads left over from doing the floor. they are yours if you decide to go this route.
 
been spread pretty thin working on the house and the garage as well has a few other projects.

1. no cuts came out Friday and marked the power line path for duke power so hopefully i will get power soon.
2. the garage doors are scheduled to be installed on the 8th.

I decided to do the floors before I install anything, ended up going with a concrete densifier. ordered some Lithi-Tek 4500 as a base (densifier) and will top it with some Lithi-Tek 8500 (sealer/water repellent) just waiting on it to arrive but, will most likely wait til I get the doors installed . ( I will take you up on the offer for the burnishing pads if that is still open).

i got the overhead lights installed and ran the conduit for them. currently pulling the wire. they are pretty low profile and bright to
boot. i am alternating the layout on the trusses ( 2 lights on the diagonal on one truss and 1 on the flat, then back to 2 on the diagonal , etc...)
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@fourtrax any updates?
 
Well after some delay, I now have a fully inclosed garage.

To do list:
Waiting on Duke power for line/meter
Need some time to do the floors.
Install lift
Install insulation/walls
Finish wiring

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I can feel the anticipation from here! Looking great Eric. Patience Grasshopper, the rewards are well worth the wait. Can't wait to see what comes out of Johnson's Garage.
 
Yes, self drilling screws work well. The most likely use some 3/4" flooring that's interlocked and staggered.

Got the floor scrubbed and clean. Getting ready to lay down the densifier once it dries.
 
Hey Eric, looking good!

I did both outside and in as shown in the photo. Plywood is 3/4". It'll hold anything and changing things up is easy. All painted white now. I pre drilled holes in 1x4 and used self tapping screws to attach to metal. I tried without the pre drilled holes and the screws would walk out the 1x4 and jamb prior to getting through the metal.

Keep up the good work on your son's shop :)

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