Another rear driveshaft! AAARGH!

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Joined
Dec 19, 2006
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18
Messages
94
Location
Amherst NH
Did it again! Brand new shaft this time, first hill climb I came to. Gave it some throttle, just a little, and BANG. I'm trying to run an 80 rear axle with the stock 40 three speed transfer case in my fj40. The axle is not that far offset. only about three inches. Any body running this setup? Any suggestions other than replacing the rear axle with the correct offset? Just need a shaft that will hold up to some skinny pedal.
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looks like you did a great job of maxing out the cv, causing it to bind and Boom..
 
looks like you did a great job of maxing out the cv, causing it to bind and Boom..

Yep-You bound it up and it broke. Saved you a t-case and a pinion. That's a good swap.

You definitely have some driveline issues, though.

Mini truck shafts are reputed to have about the best angular capability in the CV, in in a weird twist of fate, I have one I will sell you cheap if you need it.

I disagree with Pygpen, though. CV shafts can be very helpful in getting good dive line angles and being free of vibrations.
 
I also beat the crap out of my CV without issue..
 
Maybe,
I've had bad experiences with CV's, I've broke two.
I've seen others that were set up right bomb them.
They take special clearancing to get any angle out of them.

I switched to a stock shaft with old joints and have run it... for a long time.
I have never seen a LC u joint break.
I have seen a few wear out after 30 years of service, but not bomb.
PMK
 
No binding this time. I've got the traction bar and a limiting chain that only allows it to droop about 3". Couldn't find any evidence of the joints hitting, although I've seen it before. Just not with the traction bar and limiting chain. I bought a rock box from AA so it would be a real wa$te to toss it now. Although I have thought of it. I guess my next step is to run a non cv and see what happens. The shaft I have now is a 1310 double/double cardon and it still vibrates so how could trying a single u-joint shaft hurt. I'd like to toss the cast yokes that bolt to the flanges.
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What I have read always says that you shouldn't use a CV when you have a compound angle. Get a regular shaft...

True-
You'd have to point the pinion directly at the tcase output with regards to both angles to get a CV shaft to work right when the pinion offset is different vs the tcase output. (pretty hard to do with regards to pinion offset, think crabwalk, ;) )

If you put a standard shaft back on, you need to get your pinion and tcase flanges parallel, otherwise the vibes will continue.
 
No binding this time. I've got the traction bar and a limiting chain that only allows it to droop about 3". Couldn't find any evidence of the joints hitting, although I've seen it before. Just not with the traction bar and limiting chain. I bought a rock box from AA so it would be a real wa$te to toss it now. Although I have thought of it. I guess my next step is to run a non cv and see what happens. The shaft I have now is a 1310 double/double cardon and it still vibrates so how could trying a single u-joint shaft hurt. I'd like to toss the cast yokes that bolt to the flanges.

You're running a CV at each end....
I hate those twice as much!:lol:
PMK
 
If you are running double CV why just get a mini CV and single u-joint at the other side .. I belive you have your pinion pointing to your tcase so the CV at the t-case output and you will be done.
 
run stock toy U joints on both ends.

Dump the CV's (1310's suck, really bad)
 
The cv will cancel out the offset at the t-case, but not at the diff. It would be like running a cv without pointing the diff at the case. I think I am going to try and run the single joint on both ends. Then drop the diff just a bit, and just live with a little vibration. Isnt there anyone else with an offset axle? What are you running?
 
a Ujoint at each end. Pinion is offset apx. 3 1/2" from the CL o fthe transfer output shaft. No vib.s that stand out over the 35" MTRs through all speed ranges on & off road.
 
What are you running?


Not Toyota....



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4.3 Atlas 32 spline outputs, 1350 High Angle driveshaft, Sunray fabricated rear axle housing, Hi9/ARB 35spline/300M CTM axle shafts..




and listen to this:


ditch the 3 speed case. Do that WAY before you offset the D60. That would be wise.

Anything is an upgrade to a Toy 3 speed case.

Once you fix the shaft issue, your next problem lies there.



They are compounding issues. (your driveline failing and finding the next weak link)

If you really want the ability to run your junk hammer down, you are going to need to step up to quality components. Sell that doubler-case affair, and just get a quality transfer case based on a Dana 300. Find a Dana 300, rebuild it, install lower gears and upgraded front and rear output shafts, or get a STaK or an Atlas II.

An Orion HD would allow the 32 spline ouputs front and rear, and an offset rear output, but you will not get a front dig option with this. Once you use that, you will never want to go with anything else....




All it takes is Fun tickets® :)



:beer:
 
Thats a sweet setup. Thats probably my next mod. But until then I just want to make what I have work. (just for now) Then "when" I hit the lottery I'll do it right. Gotta say I like the multi low options with the doubler. Although low/low is sometimes too LOW. I've got the vortec now.
 

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