Another rear driveshaft! AAARGH!

[Isotel]

Mine is a Completely Stock CV Toyota mini truck drive shaft.. Came out of the front of my 89 4runner.. 25" long

My Drive line sits ~1" Drivers side, and the pinion on the 3rd sits 1.5" to the Passenger side.. No vibrations up to 80MPH.. <-- Keeping it in my lane

 

[Mr. Notorious]

Did it again! Brand new shaft this time, first hill climb I came to. Gave it some throttle, just a little, and BANG. I'm trying to run an 80 rear axle with the stock 40 three speed transfer case in my fj40. The axle is not that far offset. only about three inches. Any body running this setup? Any suggestions other than replacing the rear axle with the correct offset? Just need a shaft that will hold up to some skinny pedal.

How long is your driveshaft? I'm running this EXACT setup, but haven't gotten out yet since I'm finishing up my front suspension. I ended up going with a Double CV driveshaft too. How'd you 1310's at the T-case end? No one could match that factory LC t-case stuff to switch over to spicer. I ended up with mini truck cv at the tcase, and spicer stuff at 80 series pinion. I ended up doing around a 6" wheelbase stretch so I'm hoping I won't have this problem...

Whats up with the disk brake at the tcase output? Mines a drum??

Does your 80 series rear have the factory elocker?

 

[zcruz]

Mr. Notorious, my rear driveshaft is 24" long. I am running 55 rear springs so the axle is moved back 4" or so. I sent the flanges to the shaft maker and they drilled them out to fit the spicer yoke. If you can, (sounds too late) don't bother with the double double. Mine still vibrated at all speeds, some worse than others. I have not replaced the shaft yet, but I am going a different direction. Not everything you work out on paper necessarily works in reality! I'll post as soon as I get there, (reality). The t-case brake is MAF. Good kit. I replaced mine because the drum was scored where the seal goes and I skipped the speedi sleeve. Also I left the e-brake on in 4low:whoops:.Only problem is the cable gets water in it and it freezes. PITA. I have the factory locker and used the Downey cable conversion. That works wicked pissah too. Get your order in soon 'cause it takes a while for them to make one. The new t-case flange that comes with the disc kit is a 4spd unit.

 

[Mr. Notorious]

Wow dude thanks for all the help!

Funny, thats how I broke my ebrake cable too

One more quick question, did the disc brake conversion change your driveshaft length at all?

Yeah I already got the double CV, we'll see. I have a 4link so maybe I'll be able to dial in my pinion more to prevent vibes, we'll see. Everyone I talked to said a compound angle on a ujoint doesn't matter, doesn't sound like the case here...

Howcome you went with the cable activation over the electric for the rear locker?

 

[zcruz]

Naw, same length d-shaft. The disc bolts on to the back of the t-case flange with the d-shaft bolts. I used the cable locker for the rear because I bought the axle without a working electric locker. BIG $ to replace. The Downey kit was $150, and works very well. No brainer. I just went to the same hill that broke my rear shaft last night with some friends Heeps. Same hole broke 1 Dana 44 front ring gear on a 98 Tj with 36's. Then a rear axle shaft on an 04 Rubicon! HA HA. I'll take the d-shaft anyday. My buddy is going to assault it today with his full size Sh*ty with 40" boggers to claim his supremacy. Should be a good show!

 

[Tapage]

My buddy is going to assault it today with his full size Sh*ty with 40" boggers to claim his supremacy. Should be a good show!

please some pics and video for us ..! I wanna see that hole ..