another re-gear thread - 4.88s + 35" RPM and speed measurements

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I'm surprised that the speedo is off that much. Wouldn't that mean that the odometer would be off proportionately as well, and there for the MPG would be higher than actual?

mpg is measured by my scangauge which is pretty damn accurate. you enter the # of gallons you use to fill the take and it makes the necessary calculations to give you an accurate mpg.
 
Sorry never got back with you on the gear make. I never actually looked at the marking's on the gears themselves but they were boxed in Precision boxes. I actually have my cruiser at the shop now having everything done, I hope I love them as much as everyone else. Hopefully should be done today or tomorrow. :clap:
 
Both F&R gears that I received today from ringpinion.biz were Motive gears in Precision boxes. The nicely organized install kit for the front looks identical to the blister pack kits shown on the Motive web site. The rear install kit came directly from ringpinion.biz and was various rear diff bits wrapped in newspaper and shoved into the big box with the R&P sets.

Typical Motive install kit from their web site:
gm_10_bolt_kit.jpg


-B-
 
Are you 100% sure you got Precision Gears, not just the box? Like I said Motive and US gears have shown up in PG boxes. IMO they are on par with PG's quality but cost slightly less.

I just droped off my diffs today for the re-gear. The gears alone cost me: front - $150 , rear - $210, oem crush sleve, seal, lock nut, gaskets - $50. No new bearings. I know it's an opportune time but with 80k and several Toyota diffs experience, feel the price isn't worth the benefit.

The setup cost me $450 for labor. All this plus the mis. stuff for a birfield gasket set, etc. -- probably less than $50. I HAD to keep this job under 1k and hit the mark but it's alot of my time/work.

Bear80,
is that all you need for a OEM locked truck to regear?
looks like you hit it around $900 total for regear, that sounds alright.
 
Bear80,
is that all you need for a OEM locked truck to regear?
looks like you hit it around $900 total for regear, that sounds alright.

LOL, well after I got screwed by the guy that was setting them up for $450 I sent them to ZUK for about the same price, less acutally. I didin't bother with new bearings since mine had low miles, that would be up to you. However, after the first guy screwed my front pinion bearing I had to buy a new set, inner and outter. Other than that all I bought were, housing gaskets, pinion seals, crush spacers, and pinion nuts. For the e-locker rear you'll need to buy the $80 worth of carrier shims, unless you send them to ZUK. He bought my leftovers so I broke even with that part. I originally ordered the kits froms from ring&pinion.biz here but the quality wasn't what I would put on my truck, so I paid a little more for the Toyota seals and crush spacer.

About the gears, as -B- pointed out Motive gears likely show up in Precision boxes. I'd save a few dollars and throw some money Curts way at Cruiser Outfitters and get the Sierra Brand with Motive gears inside. I got a US Gear for my front and it came in a Yukon box, then got a rear set of Sierra from Curt with Motive gears inside. If I hadn't got a good deal on the Yukon (really US Gears) I would have been pissed to pay nearly $200 for a set of gears that show up for $150. Quality wise true Precisions would be nice, Motives are great and the US Gears are just as well, though I'd have liked to have a matched set of Motive gears.
 
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Yikes, sounds like you had an ordeal. Thanks for the info

Parts
-Sierra gears
-OEM housing gaskets, pinion seals & nuts, crush washers
-Carrier shims (e-locked trucks)

Labor
-$
 
looks like you hit it around $900 total for regear, that sounds alright.

I am MUCH deeper into it than that and I am not through yet. I'll come up with a final parts list and tally.

$800 for the gears from ringpinion.biz This includes their kits which have Koyo bearings (1 was a Timken). My truck has over 170k miles so I didn't want to use the old bearings. (Less $160 for rear carrier bearings which I am reusing) I was also due for a front axle service.

$800 gears & install kits
$300 for a front axle kit + diff gaskets + FIPG (without wheel bearings)
$100 F&R brake pads
$50 F&R rotor clean-up ("trued")
$50 Solvent, rags, brake cleaner, etc. (Probably more... this is a guess.)
$450 Labor for R&P setup (No shipping, using a local company)
$ ?? for a rear axle kit (already had some of the parts.)
$ ?? lower knuckle studs & nuts (already had these waiting for this project)
$ 50 Amsoil grease
$15 Pizza for Beno and Ruadrigh (they had to drink water... no beer.)

As of today, I am in over $1,800 and the gears are still at the installers so there may be more costs before I am back rolling again. (I hope not.)

-B-
 
As of today, I am in over $1,800 and the gears are still at the installers so there may be more costs before I am back rolling again. (I hope not.)

-B-

Holy moly :eek: after all this, you may not have enough gas money to go anywhere for few months :crybaby:
 
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Speaking of all the mixed brands in boxes. I did some searching and it looks like it's pretty common for US Gears to show up in Yukon boxes for the FRONT. Either is a great gear but usally the US Gears cost slightly less than Yukon. Also it looks like the only retailer who carriers a Motive front gear is Downey. I'd be interested to see if they truely are Motive or not.
 
Holy moly :eek: after all this, you may not have enough gas money to go anywhere for few months :crybaby:

No worries there... petrol comes out of a different account. :D

-B-
 
I am MUCH deeper into it than that and I am not through yet. I'll come up with a final parts list and tally.

$800 for the gears from ringpinion.biz This includes their kits which have Koyo bearings (1 was a Timken). My truck has over 170k miles so I didn't want to use the old bearings. (Less $160 for rear carrier bearings which I am reusing) I was also due for a front axle service.

$800 gears & install kits
$300 for a front axle kit + diff gaskets + FIPG (without wheel bearings)
$100 F&R brake pads
$50 F&R rotor clean-up ("trued")
$50 Solvent, rags, brake cleaner, etc. (Probably more... this is a guess.)
$450 Labor for R&P setup (No shipping, using a local company)
$ ?? for a rear axle kit (already had some of the parts.)
$ ?? lower knuckle studs & nuts (already had these waiting for this project)
$ 50 Amsoil grease
$15 Pizza for Beno and Ruadrigh (they had to drink water... no beer.)

As of today, I am in over $1,800 and the gears are still at the installers so there may be more costs before I am back rolling again. (I hope not.)

-B-

I just remembered why I haven't regeared
 
I just remembered why I haven't regeared

That's why you do 5.29's. You get another 15% reduction for nary a penny more. Makes the whole thing an outright bargain :flipoff2:

I spent $700 on the JT kit, $100 for rear bearings, and $725 for a drop off the truck install (very high quality work). For $400 I could have brought just the 3rds and been in $1,200 total. I didn't care about brand labeling - the gears set up well and are as quiet as the 4.10's they replaced.
 
mpg is measured by my scangauge which is pretty damn accurate. you enter the # of gallons you use to fill the take and it makes the necessary calculations to give you an accurate mpg.

unfortunately the old adage of "garbage in garbage out" applies here. This is do to the fact that you haven't adjusted the speed sensor VDO signal to match the new tire gear combo and the scan gauge thinks you went further than you actually did.
 
unfortunately the old adage of "garbage in garbage out" applies here. This is do to the fact that you haven't adjusted the speed sensor VDO signal to match the new tire gear combo and the scan gauge thinks you went further than you actually did.

Rick are you saying that the readings are still off then?
 
Rick are you saying that the readings are still off then?

if you put on 35" tires and re-gear with 4.88s the over ratio is 8% off from stock. Now to correct for this you need to install a device to change the frequency of the speed sensor to correct for this. I don't believe Peepers has done this and if the ScanGauge is using you input for gallons used and the accumulated miles based on the speed sensor then the resulting MPG will be off 8%
 
Thanks Rick,
I'll wait for Peepers to chime in, but that's what I thought. When I bought my 80 and drove it to Aspen from Ft. Collins, according to my calculations, I got 14.6, but I knew that with the 4.88s and 35s I was slightly advantaged compared to stock (gear wise). With my old stock 80 that ran great, I rarely got over 13MPG in the Colorado high country (base elevation of 8,000ft, but 5,000ft-12,000ft+).
Nick
 
Rick,

The scangauge can be corrected to match the GPS speed using the onboard trim factor. Regardless of what the VSS is outputting, the scangauge can display the correct readout and compute the correct MPG (based on last fillup, amount of gas used, etc). So, I'm trying to figure out where the error is if there is one.
 
Rick,

The scangauge can be corrected to match the GPS speed using the onboard trim factor. Regardless of what the VSS is outputting, the scangauge can display the correct readout and compute the correct MPG (based on last fillup, amount of gas used, etc). So, I'm trying to figure out where the error is if there is one.

this is indeed the case. i adjusted the scangauge to match the speed that the gps was giving me.
 

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