Another Power Steering Pump - 4 Month Program (1 Viewer)

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OwnerCS

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I've searched around for a video about changing the PS pump on a fully functional 100 series and found the one listed below. I removed and reinstalled the pump last year when I had the radiator out as part of the PS rack refresh. It was easy last year because I had already everything torn down.

I think the only thing I may do differently is to remove the PS pulley before the pump. The pump was removed last year, so it should not be a struggle. I already have an OTC universal pulley tool that is good for crankshafts, cam, and PS pulleys that I typically use for timing belt jobs. It might make it easier if I get the pulley out of the way in the beginning.

I will be replacing the return line with a new one that I saw on here. with 06AN (3/8" ID) Insta-Grip Hose (Part Number 21064) to keep it fresh.

I can evacuate the system with a MitiVac to keep the fluid leakage to a minimum.

If I can replace the pump without removing the fan shroud then I'll be happy.


 
No need to remove pulley on a car.

1. Remove intake (10mm bolts) - vacuum hoses, etc.
2. Remove belt (14mm socket on tensioner)
3. Remove oil lines. Clamp on supply and banjo bolt (21mm??) on hi pressure. Do whatever to catch fluid. Maybe suck as much as you can from reservoir first. Then have something ready next to pump. This is worst part about the job.
4. Use same 14mm with 3-4(?) inch extention to remove 3 pump bolts. You access them through cutouts in a pulley. Pump comes out with a pulley.

Transfer pulley to the new pump outside. I just use impact to loosen pulley nut.

It's actually pretty easy job
 
No need to remove pulley on a car.

1. Remove intake (10mm bolts) - vacuum hoses, etc.
2. Remove belt (14mm socket on tensioner)
3. Remove oil lines. Clamp on supply and banjo bolt (21mm??) on hi pressure. Do whatever to catch fluid. Maybe suck as much as you can from reservoir first. Then have something ready next to pump. This is worst part about the job.
4. Use same 14mm with 3-4(?) inch extention to remove 3 pump bolts. You access them through cutouts in a pulley. Pump comes out with a pulley.

Transfer pulley to the new pump outside. I just use impact to loosen pulley nut.

It's actually pretty easy job
Easy enough. Thank you.
 
No need to remove pulley on a car.

1. Remove intake (10mm bolts) - vacuum hoses, etc.
2. Remove belt (14mm socket on tensioner)
3. Remove oil lines. Clamp on supply and banjo bolt (21mm??) on hi pressure. Do whatever to catch fluid. Maybe suck as much as you can from reservoir first. Then have something ready next to pump. This is worst part about the job.
4. Use same 14mm with 3-4(?) inch extention to remove 3 pump bolts. You access them through cutouts in a pulley. Pump comes out with a pulley.

Transfer pulley to the new pump outside. I just use impact to loosen pulley nut.

It's actually pretty easy job
x2. Pretty easy to get the pump off.
 
x3. Way easier than the 80.
 
New pump installed. It wasn't a bad job. The new pump is quiet as a new pump should be. I don't remember the old pump being this quiet.
 
The screaming PS pump has returned. Since the new OEM pump was purchased in mid-August it is still within the 12-month warranty. I contacted McGeorge with a request for warranty information.


Quick response from McGeorge. I'm using Option #3. Seems to be a hassle-free process. No return shipping charges.


1) Your local Toyota dealer can process a warranty. You would need to contact them in regard to part availability, but presuming they have the part and you have your part off the vehicle, they are able to do a warranty swap on your defective component. They will require proof of purchase from a Toyota dealer, which I have attached to this email.

2) We can email you a prepaid return label to get the defective component back. Once that part arrives back here, we will ship a replacement. This will cause your vehicle to be inoperable for quite some time, but it is an option. You would just ship the defective part back to use via FedEx and we will have the replacement shipped out to you once the defective component is in our possession.

3) If you are unable to have your vehicle down, you can place a new order for the replacement component. This would cost you money up front, but the entirety of this second order would be refunded once the defective component is returned. When you are prepared to return the defective component, we will email you a prepaid return label to get that back. Once the part is back here, we will handle the warranty and issue you a refund for your second order.
 
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What the hell would cause the new pump to fail so fast?
Must have something to do with wheeling in the Ozarks. Mine started whining as soon as I got back. I keep hoping the next time I start the truck it will go away. :rolleyes:
 
Must have something to do with wheeling in the Ozarks. Mine started whining as soon as I got back. I keep hoping the next time I start the truck it will go away. :rolleyes:

Change your fluid quickly and clean out the reservoir. I'm finding the reservoir caps may allow dust and or mud to be sucked into the system.

I use a MitiVac (HF knockoff) to evacuate the reservoir and the hoses.

I remove the reservoir with the hoses attached, give it a tilt, and evacuate any remaining fluid from the reservoir before disconnecting the hoses. That keeps me from spilling fluid during the operation.

Once the lines have been removed from the reservoir, I slide one of the smaller tubes down into the hoses to get as close to the pump as possible. If I need to remove the pump, there is very little fluid remaining in the lines.


1637071613913.png
 
If I keep having trouble, I may need to look into a high performance/capacity PS fluid reservoir with a breather tube that I could run into the breather tube manifold at the top of the firewall. Though I haven't seen any evidence of water (e.g. pink mikshake) in the PS fluid. Looks like this company figured out that hard off-roading may require some PS fluid system enhancement. They also make products for the 80 series.

There is something different about an 80 series reservoir and system that seems to avoid this problem.

I know many 80 series owners who run the same trails that we run without issue.

1637072943973.png



This is an 80 series tank.



1637073156907.png
 
Must have something to do with wheeling in the Ozarks. Mine started whining as soon as I got back. I keep hoping the next time I start the truck it will go away. :rolleyes:

Are you running the Sunsong or aftermarket power steering lines? When I changed my rack I installed the complete Sunsong hose kit. I replaced everything with the new rack.

I have a Nissan that will scream bloody murder if you try to use anyting but an OEM high pressure PS line. They are more picky about certain OEM items than Toyota ever though about being.

I need to check the connections into the PS cooler tube loop. Maybe I need an auxillary PS fluid cooler. I may be putting some kind of stress on the system that is heating up the fluid or not allowing it to circulate fast enough to cool down.


1637070926170.png
 
No, my hoses are OEM originals, except the low pressure line, which I replaced with generic fuel hose.
 
@OwnerCS I'm looking to change out my PS Pump soon. The dealer sells the pump (44320-60310) and a separate gasket set (04446-06040). Were both required, or does the pump come with necessary gaskets? TIA
 
@OwnerCS I'm looking to change out my PS Pump soon. The dealer sells the pump (44320-60310) and a separate gasket set (04446-06040). Were both required, or does the pump come with necessary gaskets? TIA

The new pump came with everything that I needed. Since the pump that I replaced had been replaced with a new hose a short while before, I used the o-ring from tne new pump and transferred the hose and outlet from the older pump to the new one. The hose was holding and it was in a perfect position for installation, so I didn't want to touch that. The new outlet wasn't perfectly round. It looked like the pump had been dropped in shipping and put a slight bend in the hose outlet.

The seal kit 04446-06040 looks to be for someone that is releasing an older pump. I didn't need to order that.

1644840248628.png



1644840337975.png
 
The new pump came with everything that I needed. Since the pump that I replaced had been replaced with a new hose a short while before, I used the o-ring from tne new pump and transferred the hose and outlet from the older pump to the new one. The hose was holding and it was in a perfect position for installation, so I didn't want to touch that. The new outlet wasn't perfectly round. It looked like the pump had been dropped in shipping and put a slight bend in the hose outlet.

The seal kit 04446-06040 looks to be for someone that is releasing an older pump. I didn't need to order that.

View attachment 2925136


View attachment 2925138
Just curious, why did you choose to replace the pump rather than rebuild it? The new pump is 100x more expensive than the internal O-ring.
 
Just curious, why did you choose to replace the pump rather than rebuild it? The new pump is 100x more expensive than the internal O-ring.
It was under warranty.
 
Are you running the Sunsong or aftermarket power steering lines? When I changed my rack I installed the complete Sunsong hose kit. I replaced everything with the new rack.

I have a Nissan that will scream bloody murder if you try to use anyting but an OEM high pressure PS line. They are more picky about certain OEM items than Toyota ever though about being.

I need to check the connections into the PS cooler tube loop. Maybe I need an auxillary PS fluid cooler. I may be putting some kind of stress on the system that is heating up the fluid or not allowing it to circulate fast enough to cool down.


View attachment 2840629
That undercarriage looks brand new!
 
Time for another new power steering pump. This one lasted 4 months. I've installed 3 new OEM pumps this year. Dust and dirt are being sucked into the system through the reservoir cap. The fluid becomes very dirty fast when off-roading. Steering is now hard to turn around corners. I need to manhandle it to turn into the driveway.
The pump is starting to whine when I rev the engine. I've flushed the fluid and cleaned the reservoir. The problem just keeps coming back. I'll order a new OEM replacement under warranty to replace this one. I don't think it can produce enough pressure under load to be safe around corners.
 
Something else going on- you might send that dirty fluid off to blackstone to confirm it’s dirt or something else.

When you flush system turning steering lock to lock, how is the fluid flowing in/out?

Is it possible that you’ve a restriction somewhere that’s cooking the fluid prematurely?
 

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