Another OBA Build FZJ80

[jdogg]

Or take lots of pics of the individual brackets, is there a PDF with measurements out there in cruiserworld? I'd love to put one together.

 

[TrickyT]

Anything is possible.



View attachment 581717

You should at least put each of those pieces in a copy machine and scan them to a PDF file, as the parts you have are very valuable. There are threads that come up here every six months or so of people wanting York mounting brackets and if someone had scanned images of all the bracket pieces you could approach a fabricator. Or better yet, get someone to spend a little time with SolidWorks and then send the design file to a fab shop. There are plenty of shops that will take a SolidWorks file and cut the parts from steel stock.

The other key component for this build is the companion crankshaft pulley. GLWJ did a custom fab on those too.

 

[adventr]

Or better yet, get someone to spend a little time with SolidWorks and then send the design file to a fab shop. There are plenty of shops that will take a SolidWorks file and cut the parts from steel stock.

The other key component for this build is the companion crankshaft pulley. GLWJ did a custom fab on those too.

You must be talking about something like this...

I *may* be able to do a small run of these, BUT ONLY AFTER I speak with Dave @ GLWJ. Don't want to infringe on someone's territory.


But don't hold your breath just yet. AtomicShawn already told me that I can't do any more projects until I get my rear winch bumper completed.

 

[FastCarGuy]

Since I've never seen one of these installed would it interfere with the mounting of a supercharger at a later date?

 

[Otamiway]

Since I've never seen one of these installed would it interfere with the mounting of a supercharger at a later date?

Absolutely. It mounts in the exact spot using the same bolt holes. :-(

 

[JohnR]

If someone could give me exact dimensions / drawing / send me one to measure, I can cut them out. I have a cnc plasma table, and have a good working relationship with the local waterjet'er. I would be possible for me to sell it as a kit or weld it up..

 

[JohnR]

Forgot to add.. I've seen people use longer a/c belts instead of a custom pulley etc..

 

[TrickyT]

I *may* be able to do a small run of these, BUT ONLY AFTER I speak with Dave @ GLWJ...

If you do make these, you really don't need to have the bracket wrap around 3 sides of the compressor, IMHO. Three sides actually complicates things, because you then have to weld the bracket to precisely match the dimensions of the compressor. Just having the bracket span the bottom and left (DS) side of the compressor provides plenty of support.

Also, you need to bolt the bracket parts to a compressor and tack the pieces together before finish welding if you want all the holes to align properly. Otherwise you'll need a die grinder to elongate some of the holes. Ask me how I know.

 

[NLXTACY]

I *may* be able to do a small run of these, BUT ONLY AFTER I speak with Dave @ GLWJ. Don't want to infringe on someone's territory.

Umm yeah. Good luck dealing with him. Nicest guy in the world on the phone. Until you try to do any kind of business with him. I've been down that road with him and got plenty of warnings from mods and other mudders which I didn't heed.

The design he did is not what I wanted. He was convinced that the three side wrap was the way to go and I was adamant against it. At the end he swore to never make another one of these again.

 

[86tuning]

If/when these go into re-prototyping or production, I'd like a set. I would also omit the 3rd side 'wrap' of the compressor, for simplicity and ease of production. Slotted holes would be good too.

If you're not building them, I'm prolly gonna hafta make my own...

Dimensions would be really nice.

 

[alia176]

You must be talking about something like this...

If I may make a suggestion, delete the left most vertical wall and decrease the thickness of the material. Heck, you could probably delete the bottom floor of the cradle as well. Having four bolts to connect the York to the cradle is plenty and you lose some of the overhanging weight. Remember, all of this weight is playing hell on the four holes on the Alum head. The lighter the better IMHO.

 

[alia176]

Ideas and comment welcome

Stu

Stu,

I'd suggest moving the air/oil separator downstream after the discharged air had a chance to cool and condensate a little bit. The outlet port of the York will be EXTREMELY hot so be sure to use a properly rated hose for this location.

 

[alia176]

Throttle cable

Credit goes to LandcruiserPhil for finding an alternative to the OEM throttle cable:

102119 NEW OEM Toro Throttle Control Cable 8186 8105 | eBay

This is a pull, turn and lock type of cable that the OEM uses but you'll need to get creative at the accelerator pedal end.

 

[SDTLC80]

If this goes into production I would be interested in one. I have a York sitting for awhile now. Just don't have the time to fab mounts for it.

 

[Otamiway]

Stu,

I'd suggest moving the air/oil separator downstream after the discharged air had a chance to cool and condensate a little bit. The outlet port of the York will be EXTREMELY hot so be sure to use a properly rated hose for this location.

Thanks for the info. How hot? My plan is to use steel braided line to the manifold.

Should I be worried about condensation/water with the separator down stream.

Stu

 

[alia176]

Thanks for the info. How hot? My plan is to use steel braided line to the manifold.

Should I be worried about condensation/water with the separator down stream.

Stu

The temps should exceed 200 deg F at the discharge, IIRC. Where the hose connects to the discharge outlet is where it may become soft and not seal well. Every so often, I need to tighten the hose clamp on my outlet otherwise, I develop a leak. As long as your steel braided hose is rated for temps of over 300 deg F, you should be golden.

Yes, you should have the separator down stream if possible. Ideally, if you can place the separator at the lowest point of your air path, that should be pretty effective at removing the condensate.

 

[NZ-CHCH-Cruiser]

So Sorry if this is a silly question.

would just braket fit up to a HDJ Diesel 4.2 motor, as i have the tank allmost finished just starting to look into the compressor side of things.

if a build of the braket does goahead yes i would be keen even though im in New Zealand. or if the plans are made avaiable i could find someone here to cut it out for me

 

[Otamiway]

The temps should exceed 200 deg F at the discharge, IIRC. Where the hose connects to the discharge outlet is where it may become soft and not seal well. Every so often, I need to tighten the hose clamp on my outlet otherwise, I develop a leak. As long as your steel braided hose is rated for temps of over 300 deg F, you should be golden.

Yes, you should have the separator down stream if possible. Ideally, if you can place the separator at the lowest point of your air path, that should be pretty effective at removing the condensate.

Wow, 300 Deg F.. good to know.

 

[Otamiway]

Install

So I started to tear into the install..

1. Loose bolts on Fan Clutch before taking the tension off the Alternator belts

2. Remove Fan, this can be done by unbolting the fan shroud, unbolt the fan/clutch combo and slide out between shroud and radiator.

3. Remove factory 2 groove Fan Pulley

4. Temporarily remove Accel cable bracket
This will be modified to fit after the OBA Bracket is installed.

Pics of Progress

 

[Otamiway]

Pulley

Double Vs Tripple pulley

I have a Plate covering one of the mount hole that I need to cut off.

Questions... Do I need to chase the holes in the engine block?