Builds Another LS swap? Really??? (1 Viewer)

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Hey Jason, anything new to share with this swap?
 
I am hoping to do an update soon. I have been stretched on other priorities the past 2 months. I am down to modifying the oil pan, finishing up the fan shroud, cooling hoses, and fabing up a throttle pedal bracket. Fingers crossed that I will get to spend a day in the garage this weekend, as I gotta get this done before the heat arrives.
 
1 inch cut off each end results in this:

Gates
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That looks great. Thanks for the info!

I have been practicing my TIG skills on aluminum of thinner and thinner gauge for a while now trying to finish my shroud. Been a number of years since I learned to TIG, and new machine and new project means a learning curve is present.

Below you can see my progress on fitting the fan surround into the shroud. Way more work than the kit would have you do, but I think the end result will be good. Worst case scenario, I will be out $58 for another shroud kit. Last pic is what cooked on aluminum looks like on the tungsten after dipping it in the puddle........

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Is that the V8 or V6 hose?


Just so I don't steer you wrong, here is the correct part number: MasterPro 20230

I eventually switched to a Gates hose which I am pretty sure used the same number.
 
Just so I don't steer you wrong, here is the correct part number: MasterPro 20230

I eventually switched to a Gates hose which I am pretty sure used the same number.
Awesome, and thanks again.
 
Just so I don't steer you wrong, here is the correct part number: MasterPro 20230

I eventually switched to a Gates hose which I am pretty sure used the same number.
While on the subject...what did you use for the upper hose?
 
I just used a early 2000s truck/suburban upper hose. With 2010 truck pump. The molding of the hose makes it just a little bit wonky looking, but I didn't want to splice.
 
Parts monkey- “what kind of vehicle have you got?”
Jason-“uhm, well, I have a 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser, but...”
Parts monkey- “ok, is that 4wd r 2wd?”
Jason- “all US models were AWD”
Parts Monkey- “uhm, i have to pick 2wd or 4wd”
Jason- “it doesn’t matter...4wd”
Parts Monkey-“which engine does it have?
Jason- “all US models had 4.5l in line sixes”
Parts Monkey-“okay then, what are we looking for?”
Jason-“lower radiator hose for a 2000 V6 Ford Explorer”

Lol, make sure you are keeping a log book with all this info:p
 
Parts monkey- “what kind of vehicle have you got?”
Jason-“uhm, well, I have a 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser, but...”
Parts monkey- “ok, is that 4wd r 2wd?”
Jason- “all US models were AWD”
Parts Monkey- “uhm, i have to pick 2wd or 4wd”
Jason- “it doesn’t matter...4wd”
Parts Monkey-“which engine does it have?
Jason- “all US models had 4.5l in line sixes”
Parts Monkey-“okay then, what are we looking for?”
Jason-“lower radiator hose for a 2000 V6 Ford Explorer”

Lol, make sure you are keeping a log book with all this info:p

So very true @Funner . I have been keeping all the receipts and documents, but I'll have to compile it all when I get it done.
 
So very true @Funner . I have been keeping all the receipts and documents, but I'll have to compile it all when I get it done.

Something I would not recommend having BTDT.

nice to see you getting closer:clap:
 
I figure it is time for an update on the project. I have been busy seemingly every weekend for the past 2 months, and have not made the progress I want as the heat draws nearer. I have been spending a good bit of time getting to know my TIG welder, and can still report that I am not a professional. I can report that I have successfully stuck many pieces of aluminum together, and affirm that there is no such thing as aluminum that is too clean. It is dang near impossible to get it too clean. In fact, I had a welder tell me there are only 3 "Cs" to remember when welding aluminum. Clean, Clean, and Clean. In the end, I have a welded shroud, but failed to acount for how much more aluminum expands and draws over steel. Steel is so easy. Aluminum is a cantankerous B*&^% that can get contaminated and soot up in a breath. I remade my fridge slide out of aluminum to practice, and it saved 4lbs over the steel one.

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Here is the completed shroud. I learned a ton, and will loop back around to it at some point to fix the issues I found with it, but I had to call it good enough at a point and keep moving forward. It fits, it works, but I feel I made the hoop too big. General shroud design practices places the fan 1/2 into the hoop, with at least a half inch clearance. I gave 1 inch all around and hope it pulls fine. The shroud did draw up on the right side and leaves a gap that will be filled with edge seal. Live and learn.

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Final job of the day was to route and plumb the oil cooler lines. These are -10 stainless braided lines and route from the cooler through the front most cross member. It was the cleanest routing and I am really hoping that I don't regret it at some point. I broke out the 16ga steel sheet and made some more brackets. After dealing with aluminum so much, I forgot how good it is to work with steel. It is forgiving, cuts well, welds easy, and doesn't fuss over being bent. I should have all the cooling I need to handle the AZ summer with all the coolers.

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Up next is the oil pan. It is the last big fab job, and 1/2 the reason I bought a TIG welder. I wanted to keep the Tcase in the stock location so as to run factory driveshafts and minimize the number of custom bits. Doing this forced the engine forward a bit more than I like, which means I dont have enough clearance with the tie rod. Solid chromoly bar wins against cast aluminum every time. The plan is to section the pan and move the front wall of the sump back .6" If it works, It will keep the factory drain plug and function. If it doesn't, then I will probably destroy a brand new H3 pan trying. If time keeps slipping, I will cut, prep, and tack it, then have a shop in town weld it all up. If you have a strong recommendation for an experienced aluminum welder, please let me know.

After the pan, the list is pretty short. Fab and install a bracket for the throttle pedal, finish cleaning up the factory harness, install the LS harness, install the fuel return line fitting, fill all the fluids, prime the oiling system, cold crank the engine, hot crank it, and then hopefully it all works and I can trailer it to the exhaust shop.

Fingers crossed.
 
Up next is the oil pan. It is the last big fab job, and 1/2 the reason I bought a TIG welder. I wanted to keep the Tcase in the stock location so as to run factory driveshafts and minimize the number of custom bits. Doing this forced the engine forward a bit more than I like, which means I dont have enough clearance with the tie rod. Solid chromoly bar wins against cast aluminum every time. The plan is to section the pan and move the front wall of the sump back .6" If it works, It will keep the factory drain plug and function. If it doesn't, then I will probably destroy a brand new H3 pan trying. If time keeps slipping, I will cut, prep, and tack it, then have a shop in town weld it all up. If you have a strong recommendation for an experienced aluminum welder, please let me know.

After the pan, the list is pretty short. Fab and install a bracket for the throttle pedal, finish cleaning up the factory harness, install the LS harness, install the fuel return line fitting, fill all the fluids, prime the oiling system, cold crank the engine, hot crank it, and then hopefully it all works and I can trailer it to the exhaust shop.

Fingers crossed.
PM'd you regarding experienced aluminum welder.
 

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