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Thanks. I'll dig I to that.i used a trimmed gates 20230 for the lower hose. upper is a combo of factory toyota upper and factory lq4 upper joined with a 1.5 to 1.25 splice.
Transitional Hose Splicers
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Thanks. I'll dig I to that.i used a trimmed gates 20230 for the lower hose. upper is a combo of factory toyota upper and factory lq4 upper joined with a 1.5 to 1.25 splice.
Transitional Hose Splicers
Is that the V8 or V6 hose?
Awesome, and thanks again.Just so I don't steer you wrong, here is the correct part number: MasterPro 20230
I eventually switched to a Gates hose which I am pretty sure used the same number.
While on the subject...what did you use for the upper hose?Just so I don't steer you wrong, here is the correct part number: MasterPro 20230
I eventually switched to a Gates hose which I am pretty sure used the same number.
Parts monkey- “what kind of vehicle have you got?”
Jason-“uhm, well, I have a 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser, but...”
Parts monkey- “ok, is that 4wd r 2wd?”
Jason- “all US models were AWD”
Parts Monkey- “uhm, i have to pick 2wd or 4wd”
Jason- “it doesn’t matter...4wd”
Parts Monkey-“which engine does it have?
Jason- “all US models had 4.5l in line sixes”
Parts Monkey-“okay then, what are we looking for?”
Jason-“lower radiator hose for a 2000 V6 Ford Explorer”
Lol, make sure you are keeping a log book with all this info
So very true @Funner .I have been keeping all the receipts and documents, but I'll have to compile it all when I get it done.
PM'd you regarding experienced aluminum welder.Up next is the oil pan. It is the last big fab job, and 1/2 the reason I bought a TIG welder. I wanted to keep the Tcase in the stock location so as to run factory driveshafts and minimize the number of custom bits. Doing this forced the engine forward a bit more than I like, which means I dont have enough clearance with the tie rod. Solid chromoly bar wins against cast aluminum every time. The plan is to section the pan and move the front wall of the sump back .6" If it works, It will keep the factory drain plug and function. If it doesn't, then I will probably destroy a brand new H3 pan trying. If time keeps slipping, I will cut, prep, and tack it, then have a shop in town weld it all up. If you have a strong recommendation for an experienced aluminum welder, please let me know.
After the pan, the list is pretty short. Fab and install a bracket for the throttle pedal, finish cleaning up the factory harness, install the LS harness, install the fuel return line fitting, fill all the fluids, prime the oiling system, cold crank the engine, hot crank it, and then hopefully it all works and I can trailer it to the exhaust shop.
Fingers crossed.