Good lord! Looks like an addiction! Nice problem to have!
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The batteries are in parallel when off or running, and only change to series while the starter is being used. You should be able to just throw a charger on your drivers/right side battery and the charger would just think you have one battery with a massive capacity. Same way that your alternator is only connected to the one battery to charge both.
Yeah, I think it's a no brainer, just for pace of mind.
There's no clear line in the sand for when BEB became a non issue, and there's no line in the sand for how many km they'll do before s***ting the bed
- Thread starter
- #24
Good explanation. Thank you.
As someone else said, connect the battery maintainer to the right hand battery. It is the one directly connected to the -ve chassis ground.
I was just exploring the reasoning for the BEB change.
My BEB's were done when I got the truck by the dealer. It was his company policy for all JDM imports they sold.
Very interesting dealer who closed his business down when he reached retirement age rather than sell it to someone that he could not trust to continue things as he wanted them to be.
I was just exploring the reasoning for the BEB change.
My BEB's were done when I got the truck by the dealer. It was his company policy for all JDM imports they sold.
Very interesting dealer who closed his business down when he reached retirement age rather than sell it to someone that he could not trust to continue things as he wanted them to be.
Nice rig. The BEB thing is an awkward one. My truck (2/92) had them replaced at 150k (2002)I never saw these.
I got it at 250k and replaced them and new bolts also. The bearings looked terrible. They had what looked like big pits, but the crank was fine and in reality it was just probably corrosion from oil not escaping .
I wouldn't recommend new bolts on old rods really, but they had already been done once so it's a hard call.
Now at 385k I have had an oil test and it came back good - no soft metals. That's with 5k oil changes and not hammering the bearings lugging it up hills and also long cool down periods after hot running.
The fact bearings installed in 2002 still looked rat sh1t would indicate the problem is not the bearing. I'm still sitting in the fence.
I'd def get an oil test as a starting point.
I got it at 250k and replaced them and new bolts also. The bearings looked terrible. They had what looked like big pits, but the crank was fine and in reality it was just probably corrosion from oil not escaping .
I wouldn't recommend new bolts on old rods really, but they had already been done once so it's a hard call.
Now at 385k I have had an oil test and it came back good - no soft metals. That's with 5k oil changes and not hammering the bearings lugging it up hills and also long cool down periods after hot running.
The fact bearings installed in 2002 still looked rat sh1t would indicate the problem is not the bearing. I'm still sitting in the fence.
I'd def get an oil test as a starting point.
- Thread starter
- #28
I'm getting some good info! Thanks for the input(s).
Personally I will be changing my BEB's every 100,000km. They are not expensive and it's an easy job so I see no reason to tempt fate.
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Nice truck! I have a Noco twin bank charger that is intended for my truck as well. What mods/plans do you have for this 81?
Here is some interesting reading on BEB's.
ACL rod bearings after 150k kms.
1HD-FT life span
1HDT Big End Bearings As per this thread in 2005 I used to believe it was a "do it once and all okay". However in Canada we have been getting these long enough now to see a number with bearings changed twice and it seems to be a replace item on a service schedule. I'll be due on my 1HD-T in the next year or so and will, at this point, be going with the Taiho referenced in the 1st link.
There are a number of other threads if one wants to search and do more reading.
It's great to see more and more of these rigs hitting the shores of North America. We in Canada have been fortunate with the 15 year rule.
hth's
gb
Here is some interesting reading on BEB's.
ACL rod bearings after 150k kms.
1HD-FT life span
1HDT Big End Bearings As per this thread in 2005 I used to believe it was a "do it once and all okay". However in Canada we have been getting these long enough now to see a number with bearings changed twice and it seems to be a replace item on a service schedule. I'll be due on my 1HD-T in the next year or so and will, at this point, be going with the Taiho referenced in the 1st link.
There are a number of other threads if one wants to search and do more reading.
It's great to see more and more of these rigs hitting the shores of North America. We in Canada have been fortunate with the 15 year rule.
hth's
gb
- Thread starter
- #31
Thanks, I've been geeking out on the 1HD-T search threads. I plan to get the Taiho bearings and new bolts ordered today. I'll be much more relaxed driving this thing once I know what's going on in there! Fresh oil and filter will help me too.
Scot
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Yeah I have done my beb twice. Taiho. Second set were mint.
- Thread starter
- #33
Every 100,000km changes? Elaborate please.
I admire the cautious approach, but from my perspective I would be weighing up the issues with re-using existing bolts or even more hard decision to use new bolts without resizing. Both would better be avoided if BEBs were not suspect.
What is the issue with using new bolts?
every 100km. why not?
The rule of thumb from engine builders is that if you change bolts the journal should be resized and bearings matched accordingly.
On the other hand, once the old bolts have been torqued they shouldn't be reused too many times either.
I have done it both ways trouble free and checked with plasti gauge, but it's still a worry in my opinion.
On the other hand, once the old bolts have been torqued they shouldn't be reused too many times either.
I have done it both ways trouble free and checked with plasti gauge, but it's still a worry in my opinion.
Changing journals and resizing bearings makes no sense and is not supported by the FSM either. By that logic you would have to change the rod every time you change the bolts.
The stretch in the bolts can be measured and if out of specs (indicated in the FSM), they have to be replaced.
- Thread starter
- #39
Thanks Radd Cruisers.
