bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
At least yours is running and drivable. Can't wait till I get to that point.
Another HJ61... from Finland this time
- Thread starter HoJo 61
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #102
Well, you are not too far "behind" anymore. I saw your engine running , forgot to reply tho, i was busy at the time. 
But your paint job makes me envy.
But your paint job makes me envy.
- Thread starter
- #103
Time for an update.
I had the rig roadworthy checked three weeks back, and it passed. However, inspector left some "home work" for me to do.
Front PS short brake line was starting to show its age, going to replace both sides at once.
Two of the tie rod ends has to be changed, the rubbers are shot. Tie rod ends itself are totally fine, no play, nothing.
Have to order front crankshaft seal as well and oil filter at same time.. and buy some 10W-40.
Then i need HELP!
I was wondering the other day why are my rear quarters wet. At first i thought it is water that is melting on roof but as i took a closer look, it wasn't all water as it was oily. I left it for two-three days like that thinking it is nothing that important, may be water mixed with oily rust proofing coat.
Today my dad came back from work and asked me if i have been looking for a new fuel tank, i asked why?
"it is leaking diesel" he said. I went to take a look right away.
I crawled under and after a little eyeballing i came to result it was not the tank leaking, it is coming somewhere from PS rear quarter panel.
While crawling there i found one line going nowhere. It was pretty much plugged of dirt and rust, yes it had rusted pipe inside it.
I could not find a place to go for that line. See picture below.
I took the rear cargo area panel out of my way to look if the fuel filler "neck" was the cause, no, it was all good.
Got my eyes on fuel evaporative separator(?) and the first line from left was wet.
That is where i need help from more experienced people, how does that valve system work, what can cause all that:
I had the rig roadworthy checked three weeks back, and it passed. However, inspector left some "home work" for me to do.
Front PS short brake line was starting to show its age, going to replace both sides at once.
Two of the tie rod ends has to be changed, the rubbers are shot. Tie rod ends itself are totally fine, no play, nothing.
Have to order front crankshaft seal as well and oil filter at same time.. and buy some 10W-40.
Then i need HELP!
I was wondering the other day why are my rear quarters wet. At first i thought it is water that is melting on roof but as i took a closer look, it wasn't all water as it was oily. I left it for two-three days like that thinking it is nothing that important, may be water mixed with oily rust proofing coat.
Today my dad came back from work and asked me if i have been looking for a new fuel tank, i asked why?
"it is leaking diesel" he said. I went to take a look right away.
I crawled under and after a little eyeballing i came to result it was not the tank leaking, it is coming somewhere from PS rear quarter panel.
While crawling there i found one line going nowhere. It was pretty much plugged of dirt and rust, yes it had rusted pipe inside it.
I could not find a place to go for that line. See picture below.
I took the rear cargo area panel out of my way to look if the fuel filler "neck" was the cause, no, it was all good.
Got my eyes on fuel evaporative separator(?) and the first line from left was wet.
That is where i need help from more experienced people, how does that valve system work, what can cause all that:
- Thread starter
- #104
Scored CT26 from Supra today, locally. 12H-T turbo on left Supra on right.
42mm vs 46.5mm comp wheels.
42mm vs 46.5mm comp wheels.
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
Maybe you fixed it already but the air vent system goes from right to left and back into the frame, this way if the car is on its side fuel can not leak out, I had a very rusted line, it was dry, no trace of fuel.
I replaced with rubber hose: 77256 TUBE, FUEL EMISSION, NO.3
For the rest hj60 and 61 are different so I dont know but is the water separator ok, maybe when fuelling it pushes fuel out, not while driving?
I thought 61 delivers fuel back to the tank so if that one is leaking?
60 just recycles fuel at the pump.
mud "hides" the original location of my pictures, more here: hj60.freeforums.org • View topic - Painting and Fueltank hoses connection picture
I replaced with rubber hose: 77256 TUBE, FUEL EMISSION, NO.3
For the rest hj60 and 61 are different so I dont know but is the water separator ok, maybe when fuelling it pushes fuel out, not while driving?
I thought 61 delivers fuel back to the tank so if that one is leaking?
60 just recycles fuel at the pump.
mud "hides" the original location of my pictures, more here: hj60.freeforums.org • View topic - Painting and Fueltank hoses connection picture
- Thread starter
- #106
Thanks @hj 60 i thought i solved it already but looks like i didn't. Maybe fuel level was low enough to not to leak anymore as i did some minor changes, bypassed the breather hose.
Fuel tank was filled to the top yesterday and now it's leaking again. 13 litres/100km by the way. 21mpg..
Guess i have to take the tank and vent system "on the table" and clean everything up. And paint the rusty tank. And trace down the issue.
Fuel tank was filled to the top yesterday and now it's leaking again. 13 litres/100km by the way. 21mpg..
Guess i have to take the tank and vent system "on the table" and clean everything up. And paint the rusty tank. And trace down the issue.
- Thread starter
- #107
I'm not sure anymore what is going on with the leak issue.
It hasn't leaked anymore since the day the tank was filled to the top.
However, i got the sun visor reconditioned and assembled, now pending install.
Got the turbo hot sides swapped, need to source oil and water feed/drain gaskets somehow somewhere and install.
Changed studded KM2's back to M/T tires for summer.
Opened DS rear brake drum to take a look what is going on there. Hub bearing may be shot or loose.. gotta find out later. Brake shoes are almost completely dead, gotta change them later too + the other parts mentioned some posts earlier.
For the last but not least, paintjob is peeling off more and more day by day. Too bad weather won't allow to do any painting outside anytime soon. Temperature reaches barely +8c by noon but nights are below zero.
Picture time.
Rusty metal pieces. Almost every bolt snapped in half.
Painted with matte black. New hardware.
Sunvisor somehow looks greenish in the picture but it is not in person.
Poor pic but the left side brake shoe was worn to the metal from the lower end.
Separating turbine housing, torch was needed.
BONUS pic! HJ61 x 2!
That's it for now,
It hasn't leaked anymore since the day the tank was filled to the top.
However, i got the sun visor reconditioned and assembled, now pending install.
Got the turbo hot sides swapped, need to source oil and water feed/drain gaskets somehow somewhere and install.
Changed studded KM2's back to M/T tires for summer.
Opened DS rear brake drum to take a look what is going on there. Hub bearing may be shot or loose.. gotta find out later. Brake shoes are almost completely dead, gotta change them later too + the other parts mentioned some posts earlier.
For the last but not least, paintjob is peeling off more and more day by day. Too bad weather won't allow to do any painting outside anytime soon. Temperature reaches barely +8c by noon but nights are below zero.
Picture time.
Rusty metal pieces. Almost every bolt snapped in half.
Painted with matte black. New hardware.
Sunvisor somehow looks greenish in the picture but it is not in person.
Poor pic but the left side brake shoe was worn to the metal from the lower end.
Separating turbine housing, torch was needed.
BONUS pic! HJ61 x 2!
That's it for now,
- Thread starter
- #108
Hi, update time.
Nothing too crazy or interesting this time but at least something.
Weather is finally getting warmer which is a huge positive when trying to do something without having a garage. Rainy days are a huge "fun killers" however.
I have a long to-do list which i started from the cargo area. Removed all the carpet that PO screwed in place by using self tapping screws. That left some empty holes to rust. Of course the screws itself rusts and therefore rusts the sheet metal too.
Removed all the screws and carpet. Then welded the holes shut, grounded and painted.
Fixed some of the PO's work along the way. He wasn't really a painter or an electrician..
Removed the huge space eater tool box in the process too and moved on of the tie down anchors. Bought two more later that day. Then i have 8 anchors in total.
To Do list write down. Not in any kind of order.
- Oil change + filter.
- Front brake hoses, shorter.
- Tie rod ends, 2.
- Bigger turbo.
- Rear brake shoes.
- Rear FF bearings.
- Exterior sunvisor installation.
- Re-work all the pressure piping from turbo.
- New paint job!! Camo? Plus some kind of rear quarter chop-chop at the same time.
- Rain gutter chrome removal? Less chrome = better.
- Drop the fuel tank, recondition and chase down the leak!
- Interior work. Fixed cargo area, front floor pending.
- New rear carpet. Without screws...
- Matching side panel upholstery.
- New window tint with one shade (20%?). 3 different shades atm.
- Re-work the rear bumper. Level and re-paint it. Removable tow hitch??
- Re-work the front bumper? That is still a question mark.
- Do something for leaky PTO winch!!
- Front pinion seal leaks, change it.
- Diff oil level check and/or change.
- Upper and lower tailgate rust fix + wiper removal (or what's left).
- Front crankshaft oil seal change.
- Re-position the exhaust tip.
- Better drivers seat.
- Better steering wheel.
- Roof rack needs attention. Try to finally wire all the lights.
- Frame rust repairs + painting.
- SOA(has to be low) or coils(expensive)? Probably will never happen but the ride is bouncy due to "OME heavy" rear springs.
Oh boy that list became longer than expected..
Everybody likes pictures so
picture time!!
That is how the carpet was attached. Removed tens of these screws.
PO's work is already rusty. It is only three or four year old work at max.
Left hand side wheel well.. See the holes i was talking about earlier.
Right hand side wheel well. Mud finds it way in. IH8MUD!
More mud!!
More holes!!
And more!!
Yes! More!
More pics to come.
Nothing too crazy or interesting this time but at least something.
Weather is finally getting warmer which is a huge positive when trying to do something without having a garage. Rainy days are a huge "fun killers" however.
I have a long to-do list which i started from the cargo area. Removed all the carpet that PO screwed in place by using self tapping screws. That left some empty holes to rust. Of course the screws itself rusts and therefore rusts the sheet metal too.
Removed all the screws and carpet. Then welded the holes shut, grounded and painted.
Fixed some of the PO's work along the way. He wasn't really a painter or an electrician..
Removed the huge space eater tool box in the process too and moved on of the tie down anchors. Bought two more later that day. Then i have 8 anchors in total.
To Do list write down. Not in any kind of order.
- Oil change + filter.
- Front brake hoses, shorter.
- Tie rod ends, 2.
- Bigger turbo.
- Rear brake shoes.
- Rear FF bearings.
- Exterior sunvisor installation.
- Re-work all the pressure piping from turbo.
- New paint job!! Camo? Plus some kind of rear quarter chop-chop at the same time.
- Rain gutter chrome removal? Less chrome = better.
- Drop the fuel tank, recondition and chase down the leak!
- Interior work. Fixed cargo area, front floor pending.
- New rear carpet. Without screws...
- Matching side panel upholstery.
- New window tint with one shade (20%?). 3 different shades atm.
- Re-work the rear bumper. Level and re-paint it. Removable tow hitch??
- Re-work the front bumper? That is still a question mark.
- Do something for leaky PTO winch!!
- Front pinion seal leaks, change it.
- Diff oil level check and/or change.
- Upper and lower tailgate rust fix + wiper removal (or what's left).
- Front crankshaft oil seal change.
- Re-position the exhaust tip.
- Better drivers seat.
- Better steering wheel.
- Roof rack needs attention. Try to finally wire all the lights.
- Frame rust repairs + painting.
- SOA(has to be low) or coils(expensive)? Probably will never happen but the ride is bouncy due to "OME heavy" rear springs.
Oh boy that list became longer than expected..
Everybody likes pictures so
picture time!!That is how the carpet was attached. Removed tens of these screws.
PO's work is already rusty. It is only three or four year old work at max.
Left hand side wheel well.. See the holes i was talking about earlier.
Right hand side wheel well. Mud finds it way in. IH8MUD!
More mud!!
More holes!!
And more!!
Yes! More!
More pics to come.
- Thread starter
- #109
Holes welded and grounded.
And painted. Forgot to weld one hole.
I also removed all the noise killer that was loose.
Then to the lower floor section. Very minor surface rust and few holes to patch.
Again removed the loose noise killer stuff. Found two open holes and sand.
And the other side.
Painted only the necessary spots. I used Dupli-Color "4 in 1" matte black paint.
As mentioned earlier, i decided to remove the huge green tool box as it was taking up so much space.
The box was bolted in place by using the two nuts welded on the floor.
Nuts removed, holes welded and grounded. Tie down anchor point was moved at the same time.
I will add two more anchor points behind wheel wells. Then i have 3 points on each side plus two factory points in middle.
I said earlier PO was not really an electrician neither. That is why.
Removed all that. Door control relays.. wiper control relay.. loose connectors there and here.. one random wire..
That's it for now. More to come when weather allows me to work on it.
And painted. Forgot to weld one hole.
I also removed all the noise killer that was loose.
Then to the lower floor section. Very minor surface rust and few holes to patch.
Again removed the loose noise killer stuff. Found two open holes and sand.
And the other side.
Painted only the necessary spots. I used Dupli-Color "4 in 1" matte black paint.
As mentioned earlier, i decided to remove the huge green tool box as it was taking up so much space.
The box was bolted in place by using the two nuts welded on the floor.
Nuts removed, holes welded and grounded. Tie down anchor point was moved at the same time.
I will add two more anchor points behind wheel wells. Then i have 3 points on each side plus two factory points in middle.
I said earlier PO was not really an electrician neither. That is why.
Removed all that. Door control relays.. wiper control relay.. loose connectors there and here.. one random wire..
That's it for now. More to come when weather allows me to work on it.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
Ahhh, long list of joy! It will be satisfying getting all that done!!
Are you going to Lapland trophy? You should, so we can meet!
Any progress on the turbo? Interested in that... ;p
Are you going to Lapland trophy? You should, so we can meet!
Any progress on the turbo? Interested in that... ;p
TLC Norway
woodwelder
Now I got all the pictures up, good job on fixing all those leaks and rust issues!!
Progress! Looking good. Tedious work but as I know, must be so satisfying knowing it is all fixed.
Are you putting carpet back in?
Are you putting carpet back in?
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
All these holes to get a simple carpet right, idiot decision 
What a good moment to have all the welding tools removed, paint and then find one forgotten hole
I have to install front lokka, replace brake disks while there and radiator has tiny leak (only under running pressure) so also very happy with summer!
Lapland trophy looks cool; Lapland Trophy
What a good moment to have all the welding tools removed, paint and then find one forgotten hole
I have to install front lokka, replace brake disks while there and radiator has tiny leak (only under running pressure) so also very happy with summer!
Lapland trophy looks cool; Lapland Trophy
- Thread starter
- #114
Thank you guys!
We have been looking for a replacement car to take HJ's place temporary. That would give us more time to fix and change parts as we don't have to keep it in drivable condition all the time, HJ is a daily driver. More time equals in better end result, right?
Due to that i'm not so sure about Lapland Trophy, @TLC Norway of course i would love to participate!
When i watched to your Lapland Trophy pics last summer i felt bit sad i missed it. Looked like a really awesome event.
Turbo is ready to rock. I might change it first to see how it works. Actually, i can't stand to wait the power it should give! Extra 100Nm sounds just
Sounds like your HJ is going to keep you busy too, @hj 60
But what would be better than that..
We have been looking for a replacement car to take HJ's place temporary. That would give us more time to fix and change parts as we don't have to keep it in drivable condition all the time, HJ is a daily driver. More time equals in better end result, right?
Due to that i'm not so sure about Lapland Trophy, @TLC Norway of course i would love to participate!
When i watched to your Lapland Trophy pics last summer i felt bit sad i missed it. Looked like a really awesome event.
Turbo is ready to rock. I might change it first to see how it works. Actually, i can't stand to wait the power it should give! Extra 100Nm sounds just
Yes. I have been looking for a new carpet but haven't find the right one yet. I want it gray and with rubber bottom. Old carpet is oily and hard, so i'm not going to use it anymore.
Sounds like your HJ is going to keep you busy too, @hj 60
But what would be better than that..
- Thread starter
- #115
Just a little update once again, still no real progress as i've had A LOT misc. "projects" to do like house/garden improvements, helping friends with their cars/machinery.. and lastly fixing mom's Mercedes as it overheated. 
Like we didn't change the headgasket last fall.. Water pump decided it was time to stop cooperating.
Head was warped but after machining 0.500mm off of it it's like new again. Roughly 597k on the clock.
Merc is mostly done now but still needs at least one or two coolant flushes, and an oil change (there was almost 2 litres of water mixed in the oil) + air bleeding from fuel system. So i might be able to start with the HJ in the coming week, hopefully.
In other news, we bought "the replacement car" three weeks back. Another MB W202. C36
This one needs some work too, of course, but it was cheap so no biggie. Nice project for the cold and dark winter days.
Almost every body panel has more or less rust, front right-hand wheel bearing makes noise, oil change and so on.
Dunno if anybody cares about MB pics?
Like we didn't change the headgasket last fall.. Water pump decided it was time to stop cooperating. Head was warped but after machining 0.500mm off of it it's like new again. Roughly 597k on the clock.
Merc is mostly done now but still needs at least one or two coolant flushes, and an oil change (there was almost 2 litres of water mixed in the oil) + air bleeding from fuel system. So i might be able to start with the HJ in the coming week, hopefully.
In other news, we bought "the replacement car" three weeks back. Another MB W202.
C36This one needs some work too, of course, but it was cheap so no biggie. Nice project for the cold and dark winter days.
Almost every body panel has more or less rust, front right-hand wheel bearing makes noise, oil change and so on.
Dunno if anybody cares about MB pics?
TLC Norway
woodwelder
MB photos yes! What year is it? Good rigs.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Looking good. Going to be solid when your done.
- Thread starter
- #118
Some pics, i have some more if audience is interested.
AMG is -95 and the 220 diesel is -96 @TLC Norway
EGR
New and old water pump.
Rust from engine block and radiator. That's not even all of it!
Cams..
Block after removing the head. Some of the HG burned tight on the surface. Note the rust in water channels.
Surfacing the engine block is PITA.
Head back from the shop. 0.5mm was needed to remove.
Head bolts going back in, lightly oiled.
AMG is -95 and the 220 diesel is -96 @TLC Norway
EGR
New and old water pump.
Rust from engine block and radiator. That's not even all of it!
Cams..
Block after removing the head. Some of the HG burned tight on the surface. Note the rust in water channels.
Surfacing the engine block is PITA.
Head back from the shop. 0.5mm was needed to remove.
Head bolts going back in, lightly oiled.
- Thread starter
- #119
Fired up the MB today.
Needed A LOT of air bleeding from fuel system before starting. What a messy job, diesel everywhere.
Ok, it started, smoked black and blue like no other.
Only 3 cyls was firing, gave it some cake in hope all 4 will start cooperating, no effect. Thought there was still air somewhere but.
After some mins of idling and smoking (still on 3cyls only) it started to "clack". Heard two pretty loud "clacks" and shut it immediately off.
I don't really know what the hell i'm going to do with it now. Those clacks were so loud i'm almost 100% sure there is something broken. Must be. I was so disappointed and pissed off i just closed the hood and walked away.
Just an another delay with the HJ project...
Needed A LOT of air bleeding from fuel system before starting. What a messy job, diesel everywhere.
Ok, it started, smoked black and blue like no other.
Only 3 cyls was firing, gave it some cake in hope all 4 will start cooperating, no effect. Thought there was still air somewhere but.
After some mins of idling and smoking (still on 3cyls only) it started to "clack". Heard two pretty loud "clacks" and shut it immediately off.
I don't really know what the hell i'm going to do with it now. Those clacks were so loud i'm almost 100% sure there is something broken. Must be. I was so disappointed and pissed off i just closed the hood and walked away.
Just an another delay with the HJ project...
Oh no! These are times that are going to put ya to the test!Fired up the MB today.
Needed A LOT of air bleeding from fuel system before starting. What a messy job, diesel everywhere.
Ok, it started, smoked black and blue like no other.
Only 3 cyls was firing, gave it some cake in hope all 4 will start cooperating, no effect. Thought there was still air somewhere but.
After some mins of idling and smoking (still on 3cyls only) it started to "clack". Heard two pretty loud "clacks" and shut it immediately off.
I don't really know what the hell i'm going to do with it now. Those clacks were so loud i'm almost 100% sure there is something broken. Must be. I was so disappointed and pissed off i just closed the hood and walked away.
Just an another delay with the HJ project...
Feel your pain. Hope you can find a simple solution?
I would pull plugs and try cranking it over with a wrench. Then pressure test depending on prior 'feel' of cranking by hand.... go from there.
Wish you the best from Canada!
