hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
keep going, take it apart again or read if this is a typical thing for that engine? valve or valve chain? good luck,
Another HJ61... from Finland this time
- Thread starter HoJo 61
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #122
Thanks guys.
I gotta get myself back together and take the thing apart once again and see what there is going on. Long weekend i guess.
I really hope the crankshaft didn't warp when there was water in one or two(2/4) cylinders and the old man tried to start it. Engine didn't turn over at all. And it did that two times. Third attempt and it started. Engine ran on 3 cylinders for some seconds before the last one started to fire too. Everything was like it was supposed to be except making hard pressure in cooling system.
HG was completely thrashed...
Would be better solution to find a good low mileage replacement engine and throw that in i guess. Some pics next.
Fourth cylinder. Some light markings on the cylinder wall but nothing too crazy, can barely feel with finger but are clearly visible.
Second cylinder. No idea what are those white markings on the piston head, maybe water left them?
Cylinder wall is like it is supposed to be still after 597k.
I gotta get myself back together and take the thing apart once again and see what there is going on. Long weekend i guess.
I really hope the crankshaft didn't warp when there was water in one or two(2/4) cylinders and the old man tried to start it. Engine didn't turn over at all. And it did that two times. Third attempt and it started. Engine ran on 3 cylinders for some seconds before the last one started to fire too. Everything was like it was supposed to be except making hard pressure in cooling system.
HG was completely thrashed...
Would be better solution to find a good low mileage replacement engine and throw that in i guess. Some pics next.
Fourth cylinder. Some light markings on the cylinder wall but nothing too crazy, can barely feel with finger but are clearly visible.
Second cylinder. No idea what are those white markings on the piston head, maybe water left them?
Cylinder wall is like it is supposed to be still after 597k.
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
The white mark can be from fuel with lead? (my motorcycle has that sometimes in the exhaust after filling with lead fuel)
Water warpage is sometimes invisible to our human eye, maybe it was wrong all the time?
Maybe tough decision but running replacement engine might work a few years, then rebuild?
Water warpage is sometimes invisible to our human eye, maybe it was wrong all the time?
Maybe tough decision but running replacement engine might work a few years, then rebuild?
- Thread starter
- #124
Yeah, who knows. 
Something had to be out of the specs, warped or damaged. 
Replacement engine sounds and feels like the best option right now.
Rebuilding the old engine in the meantime (if possible anymore) would be one thing to do too...
Not sure yet what to do. Got to weigh the options and make a decision.
But before digging in to the engine i have to replace AMG's front wheel bearing. It has started to make a bit louder noise than before.
I might borrow it from the Diesel Merc as it is only sitting in the shed and the new bearing arrives next Friday.. Who knows if the bearing seizes or blows out while commuting to work/market/anywhere. That would give some more headache.
Something had to be out of the specs, warped or damaged. Replacement engine sounds and feels like the best option right now.
Rebuilding the old engine in the meantime (if possible anymore) would be one thing to do too...
Not sure yet what to do. Got to weigh the options and make a decision.
But before digging in to the engine i have to replace AMG's front wheel bearing. It has started to make a bit louder noise than before.
I might borrow it from the Diesel Merc as it is only sitting in the shed and the new bearing arrives next Friday.. Who knows if the bearing seizes or blows out while commuting to work/market/anywhere. That would give some more headache.
Maybe it doesnt matter anyways as probably easier/cheaper to find a running engine and drop it in. (I know it would bug me though not knowing what happened)
But was looking at these pics
http://i.imgur.com/rQBmNK6.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/y4UrW8O.jpg
Looks like after your 0.5mm head shave (maybe too much removed from head? or too many times? Been shaved in the past already?) the valves appear to be proud, or sticking out past the face of the head (at least looking at pictures)... and pistons leave no clearance. A valve would get smacked, eventually breaking or dropping the valve seat?
At least this wasn't your HJ!!!
But was looking at these pics
http://i.imgur.com/rQBmNK6.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/y4UrW8O.jpg
Looks like after your 0.5mm head shave (maybe too much removed from head? or too many times? Been shaved in the past already?) the valves appear to be proud, or sticking out past the face of the head (at least looking at pictures)... and pistons leave no clearance. A valve would get smacked, eventually breaking or dropping the valve seat?
At least this wasn't your HJ!!!
- Thread starter
- #126
That makes sense, i have the Haynes manual and it states something like "max head shave is 0.400mm".
Last fall they (same shop) only resurfaced the head, it wasn't warped at all. I don't know what or how much it takes off of the surface, but maybe that + 0.5mm this time was too much? I will find out. Didn't have the time to dig in the engine today as i had had few other things to do.
Pretty much the same tomorrow, hopefully monday is quieter.
Last fall they (same shop) only resurfaced the head, it wasn't warped at all. I don't know what or how much it takes off of the surface, but maybe that + 0.5mm this time was too much? I will find out. Didn't have the time to dig in the engine today as i had had few other things to do.
Pretty much the same tomorrow, hopefully monday is quieter.
For comparison I ground .006" or .15mm off my head. .5mm (.020") is a lot to grind. That why it jumped out at me.That makes sense, i have the Haynes manual and it states something like "max head shave is 0.400mm".
Last fall they (same shop) only resurfaced the head, it wasn't warped at all. I don't know what or how much it takes off of the surface, but maybe that + 0.5mm this time was too much? I will find out. Didn't have the time to dig in the engine today as i had had few other things to do.
Pretty much the same tomorrow, hopefully monday is quieter.
- Thread starter
- #128
Hmm.. that is a lot less than 0.5mm indeed. Too bad i can't remember how much the shop took off of my friends John Deere head when we did it ~half year ago, but it was less than 0.5mm too.
One thing i'm thinking, why it started to clack after approx 5mins of running. Did things warm up and expand enough to hit each other, piston and valves? Best to open the engine and find out.
Some JD pics just because.
One thing i'm thinking, why it started to clack after approx 5mins of running. Did things warm up and expand enough to hit each other, piston and valves? Best to open the engine and find out.
Some JD pics just because.
- Thread starter
- #129
HAHAAAA MERCEDES IS ALIVEEEEE!!!!!!!
Long story short, my aunt and her husband visited today. This man can be called a master mechanic...
We told him the story and he was like "noooo i don't believe there is anything broken.. start it up and let's listen to it", so we did.
"Well, that sounds more like one injector 'backfires' than a broken engine component, let's go for a ride", and we did.
Loud "CLACK"ing sound began to settle down as we drove down the road. Eventually disappeared completely and all four cylinders was in action. You can only imagine how relieved we were, and still are.
Now flush the coolant system, change oil + filter and find out why parking brake is not working.
AMG: oil change + filter, valve cover gasket, front wheel bearing. Parts should arrive Friday.
Then 'hopefully' we are free to start with the HJ.
Long story short, my aunt and her husband visited today. This man can be called a master mechanic...
We told him the story and he was like "noooo i don't believe there is anything broken.. start it up and let's listen to it", so we did.
"Well, that sounds more like one injector 'backfires' than a broken engine component, let's go for a ride", and we did.
Loud "CLACK"ing sound began to settle down as we drove down the road. Eventually disappeared completely and all four cylinders was in action. You can only imagine how relieved we were, and still are.
Now flush the coolant system, change oil + filter and find out why parking brake is not working.
AMG: oil change + filter, valve cover gasket, front wheel bearing. Parts should arrive Friday.
Then 'hopefully' we are free to start with the HJ.
- Thread starter
- #130
Jeez.. finally.
Just a little MB update before going into Toyota stuff.
Diesel: After multiple coolant flushes, there is still rust and s*** in the system. Looks like i'm going to do those flushes whole summer but whatever.
After that, it didn't pass the annual inspection. Both front lower ball joints had more or less play, enough not to pass. Parking brake didn't brake at all. Luckily all the needed parts was in stock in my local part store. Passed the inspection with flying colors after fixing. Hurray. BTW, while changing the ball joints, noticed that the RH front spring was in 2 pieces, wondering how didn't the inspector notice it...
AMG: Changed the front wheel bearing, i can tell you, both bearings were TIGHT, had to cut them in pieces. Glad that LOUD bearing howling is now gone.
OK, time to get to the actual topic.
So, i started with the turbo change. Pretty straight forward job as we (cousin and i) changed the leaking turbo less than a year ago, the job was pretty much in "fresh memory".
Remove intake, IC pipes, drain coolant, remove heat shields, exhaust... and so on.
Removed cracked headlight washer tank in the process too, no use for it.
Installing the "new" turbo was a bit more job than removing the old one, had to clock comp housing and CHRA a bit. Twice. But it was excepted. What was not excepted was the oil feed/drain pipe thingie was little warped, no wonder it leaked. Resurfaced both ends with 120 grid sandnet.
Now as the turbo is in, brake hoses, TRE's and oil change will follow tomorrow.
IC piping or rear brake shoes next.. will see.
Old turbo out.
Washer tank out.
Taking front wheel out helps a ton, space wise.
Not a good pic but it's meant to show how uneven the surface is.
Here it is grounded down some, a lot better than before.
In 2016... But it works.
Happy CT26's. New and old.
Little tweaking.
That's not ideal position. This is when i had to clock the CHRA.
Clocking...
And there it sits. I later put all the heat shields back on, tried to clean them up but that didn't make a night and a day difference. High temp paint would do the trick... will see.
While i was tightening exhaust and water/oil lines down there i noticed one of the hub nuts were loose. I mean finger tight at max.
Actually all of them were loose!! But no more!
Clock seems to be a little over midnight and i got to wake up early so that's it for now.
More to follow tomorrow.
Just a little MB update before going into Toyota stuff.
Diesel: After multiple coolant flushes, there is still rust and s*** in the system. Looks like i'm going to do those flushes whole summer but whatever.
After that, it didn't pass the annual inspection. Both front lower ball joints had more or less play, enough not to pass. Parking brake didn't brake at all. Luckily all the needed parts was in stock in my local part store. Passed the inspection with flying colors after fixing. Hurray. BTW, while changing the ball joints, noticed that the RH front spring was in 2 pieces, wondering how didn't the inspector notice it...
AMG: Changed the front wheel bearing, i can tell you, both bearings were TIGHT, had to cut them in pieces. Glad that LOUD bearing howling is now gone.
OK, time to get to the actual topic.
So, i started with the turbo change. Pretty straight forward job as we (cousin and i) changed the leaking turbo less than a year ago, the job was pretty much in "fresh memory".
Remove intake, IC pipes, drain coolant, remove heat shields, exhaust... and so on.
Removed cracked headlight washer tank in the process too, no use for it.
Installing the "new" turbo was a bit more job than removing the old one, had to clock comp housing and CHRA a bit. Twice. But it was excepted. What was not excepted was the oil feed/drain pipe thingie was little warped, no wonder it leaked. Resurfaced both ends with 120 grid sandnet.
Now as the turbo is in, brake hoses, TRE's and oil change will follow tomorrow.
IC piping or rear brake shoes next.. will see.
Old turbo out.
Washer tank out.
Taking front wheel out helps a ton, space wise.
Not a good pic but it's meant to show how uneven the surface is.
Here it is grounded down some, a lot better than before.
In 2016... But it works.
Happy CT26's. New and old.
Little tweaking.
That's not ideal position. This is when i had to clock the CHRA.
Clocking...
And there it sits. I later put all the heat shields back on, tried to clean them up but that didn't make a night and a day difference. High temp paint would do the trick... will see.
While i was tightening exhaust and water/oil lines down there i noticed one of the hub nuts were loose. I mean finger tight at max.
Actually all of them were loose!! But no more!
Clock seems to be a little over midnight and i got to wake up early so that's it for now.
More to follow tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #131
Yesterday:
Changed front brake hoses, L&R. Drivers side was easy peasy, passenger side not so much. We had to fight a little, but in the end i won the battle. I only bled the front brakes, do i have to bleed them all?
Changed TREs, 2 of them. Third broke down in removing process so now i'm waiting for it to arrive. Rust sucks i can tell you. Luckily i had a torch, WD-40 and a 1.5m pipe as an extension arm.
New TRE clamp bolts..
Drained oil and removed oil filter.
Today:
Didn't remember to put new oil in.. will do it tomorrow.
Painted front hubs.
Started remaking intercooler piping, got drivers side pretty much done. Can't decide if i paint them silver or black..
Tomorrow:
Pics.
IC piping.
Changed front brake hoses, L&R. Drivers side was easy peasy, passenger side not so much. We had to fight a little, but in the end i won the battle. I only bled the front brakes, do i have to bleed them all?
Changed TREs, 2 of them. Third broke down in removing process so now i'm waiting for it to arrive. Rust sucks i can tell you. Luckily i had a torch, WD-40 and a 1.5m pipe as an extension arm.
New TRE clamp bolts..
Drained oil and removed oil filter.
Today:
Didn't remember to put new oil in.. will do it tomorrow.
Painted front hubs.
Started remaking intercooler piping, got drivers side pretty much done. Can't decide if i paint them silver or black..
Tomorrow:
Pics.
IC piping.
If it were me, I would have bled the rear lines first as they are the longest run.....
I agree back brakes are probably fine if the lines were undesturbed, but when was the fluid last flushed?
- Thread starter
- #135
About 3 years ago, IIRC. Fluid was still looking good and fresh.
- Thread starter
- #136
Got bit less done of what i wanted to, making the new intake/IC pipe flange took a lot of time with my limited tools. But it's done. I didn't find any thicker than 5mm sheet metal for the flange, hope that's OK.
Old flange is more like 12mm thick, but was too horrible to be re-used.
Almost got the passenger side IC pipe done, only one bend and paint to go.
New oil filter and motor oil, 10W-40.
Let's get to the pics, i would need more coffee to write longer stories.
New brake hose and TRE installed. I finally found out what front springs i have, OME CS005F.
Does that mean heavy and 2" lift?
This is the TRE i had to order, should be in my hands by tomorrow.
Bought some pipe bends to make the new IC piping. 60mm OD.
New oil filter.
New motor oil.
Also found out passenger side leaf spring perch is not in an ideal condition...
Old flange and raw cut new flange.
Smallest piece of steel i could find.
When you don't own a hole saw you have to improvise.
Ready for welding. I was surprised how well all the holes lined up with throttle body.
Welded to a piece of railroad just in case.
That's it for now.
Old flange is more like 12mm thick, but was too horrible to be re-used.
Almost got the passenger side IC pipe done, only one bend and paint to go.
New oil filter and motor oil, 10W-40.
Let's get to the pics, i would need more coffee to write longer stories.
New brake hose and TRE installed. I finally found out what front springs i have, OME CS005F.
Does that mean heavy and 2" lift?
This is the TRE i had to order, should be in my hands by tomorrow.
Bought some pipe bends to make the new IC piping. 60mm OD.
New oil filter.
New motor oil.
Also found out passenger side leaf spring perch is not in an ideal condition...
Old flange and raw cut new flange.
Smallest piece of steel i could find.
When you don't own a hole saw you have to improvise.
Ready for welding. I was surprised how well all the holes lined up with throttle body.
Welded to a piece of railroad just in case.
That's it for now.
- Thread starter
- #137
IC piping is now mostly done, only missing 2 clamps and a silicone hose between air cleaner and intake pipe. Of course i forgot to buy those things while i was picking up parts from post office in town.
I was also so excited to get on painting the new pipes i forgot to add the boost sensor/gauge pick up and had to add it afterwards.
Not a big deal though.
New TRE is now in too so i'm done with steering.
Next on tomorrow is the rear brakes. I have both new pinion seals too but for that i would need a torque wrench.
Everybody likes pics so here goes:
New tie rod end, little shorter than the old one.
Water heater relocated with new bracket. 5x30mm steel should be enough.
Here i have the pipes drying, and forgot to add the pick up thingie before painting...
Boost sensor/gauge pick up part made out of 6mm bolt. Old one is brass so that can't be welded, PO used some kind of glue/chemical metal.
Welded in and painted.
Just for a comparison, this is how PO managed to do it:
All the new piping in place in following pics.
I was also so excited to get on painting the new pipes i forgot to add the boost sensor/gauge pick up and had to add it afterwards.
Not a big deal though.
New TRE is now in too so i'm done with steering.
Next on tomorrow is the rear brakes. I have both new pinion seals too but for that i would need a torque wrench.
Everybody likes pics so here goes:
New tie rod end, little shorter than the old one.
Water heater relocated with new bracket. 5x30mm steel should be enough.
Here i have the pipes drying, and forgot to add the pick up thingie before painting...
Boost sensor/gauge pick up part made out of 6mm bolt. Old one is brass so that can't be welded, PO used some kind of glue/chemical metal.
Welded in and painted.
Just for a comparison, this is how PO managed to do it:
All the new piping in place in following pics.
- Thread starter
- #138
Actually, let's add some pics of the old pipes just for a reference.
Huge improvement!!
So, how's the CT26 of a supra doing? Did a test run yet?
I'm very curious how that turbo will do, as mine started leaking and I'm leaning towards replacing it by a new one
Keep us updated on the results please
I'm very curious how that turbo will do, as mine started leaking and I'm leaning towards replacing it by a new one
Keep us updated on the results please
