Builds another cummins swap thread/build thread (2 Viewers)

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Pyro instal was easier than I thought, easier than boost probe.

Drilled a little too close to center and hit the side of the wall.
Had the motor running so exhaust pressure would blow the shavings out and it did, wear safety glasses!!
Greased the tap and done
 
Is the 442 electronically shifted with a compushift? I say you need more rail pressure to firm up the shifts. Did the torque converter lock up at the end? Right as the video ended? Open the compushift manual and start reading. With the cummins torque you want to have it lock up at 45-50 and not unlock unless your at 99% of TPS. You want to make sure there is an off set for mph unlock also to keep it from going in and out. Lock at 50. Unlock at 45. Or less type of thing.

You might try lowering the shift points or the TPS. Wish I knew the compushift terms. There is a seating that increases those settings with more TPS input. With the diesel you can pretty much leave it with no off set.

I'll see if I can't get some info from turbophil but he is deep into race season right now and pretty tied up.
Ok this is where I'm at;
Max engine speed 2400rpm
TCase ratio 1:1
Final 4.11:1
Tire size 33.5" that gave me the closest speed on compushift to GPS
TCC enable gear 4
TCC max throttle 90%
TCC min throttle 3%
TCC enable 35MPH
TCC disable 15%
R2L pressure boost 15%
Downshift offset 95% moved to 75% so it takes more throttle before shifting down a gear
 
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You need to turn off that abs light :)
 
Just giving you sh*t. I was going to tell you which wire to ground out to turn it off if you had a pt kit.
 
Which wire would that be? I am part-timed, but haven't bothered to get rid of the light or the ABS brain yet
Just giving you sh*t. I was going to tell you which wire to ground out to turn it off if you had a pt kit.
 
Send 12v to the only pink wire on your ih2 connector. This will turn it off
 
Send 12v to the only pink wire on your ih2 connector. This will turn it off
Wish I knew that before I pulled the bulb. Oh well I guess its all the same in the end.
 
A little comparison, I downloaded a decibel reader app. And I've been measuring to compare to the cruiser.
Cruiser at idle

Cruiser at 100kmh


GMC Sierra 1500 at 100kmh
Where are you taking the reading?
 
That sounds like a headache, I doubt that is the injectors...even if the pop pressures aren't set correctly, that wouldn't change once the engine warms up. This is why I have sent my motor out for a full rebuild, I don't want to be chasing these sorts of bugs after doing the swap.
 
Could be you valves, lifters or a galled cylinder, they will all make a similar sound. Cylinder 6 is the last to receive oil, and is usually the culprit. Take a stethoscope or long screwdriver or piece is steel and see if you can determine where the knock is coming from....valves or lifters would be better than cylinders.
 
Check the fuel lift pump. Had one make a similar sound can't say it went when warm but some times it would stop. No tie rod contact with the pan right
 

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