Another ABS Brake Failure

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Thanks for clarifying the downshifting procedure. I was always wondering if I would cause engine damage changing from D to L in one swift motion.
 
You loose quite a bit more than "just some efficiency", but not all. Braking when the booster is empty is scary. By pressing hard, you get some effect, but not enough in an emergency situation.

And, using the gears, there is no need to move stepwise down through the gears. Just slam it straight into 2 or L, it will not downshift until the speed is right for that gear. It will not change to a gear which would give a too high rpm for the engine, but it will shift down as soon as it is "permissible".

So, we need to practise:
1 - try to break the seatback by pushing the brake pedal
2 - try to break the e-brake lever by pulling it hard
3 - slam the gearshifter as far back as you have time to

Best make sure your park-brake/e-brake cable is adjusted before trying #2, eh?
 
My lx470 is at Lexus today, I have the dreaded pedal goes almost to the floor in an emergency stop situation problem. I'll let you all know how I fare
 
Any word yet?
 
My brakes checked out Ok by Lexus, I had them go over them twice. Guess it's a feature when you do an emergency stop. Just got the car back last night.
 
I'm sure it is not a "feature" that the pedal goes almost all the way to the floor in an emergency stop, if the pedal is normally firm and high.
 
That's what I think too, not sure where to take it at this point. They road tested it and checked it out. I may do some emergency stops in the school parking lot and see how it goes.
 
Anyone on here notice the pump making noise behind the fire wall before it crapped out? Mine tends to make compressor like noises when I first apply the breaks. Is this a normal noise to hear from a functioning booster.
 
Standard sound coming behind firewall.
 
Anyone on here notice the pump making noise behind the fire wall before it crapped out? Mine tends to make compressor like noises when I first apply the breaks. Is this a normal noise to hear from a functioning booster.
I would not describe as a staccato compressor-like noise. The normal sound is more like a fairly quiet electric water pump that's hard to hear from the passenger compartment if the engine is running. If yours has changed in sound or is a loud compressor-like noise, get it checked out.
 
Anyone on here notice the pump making noise behind the fire wall before it crapped out? Mine tends to make compressor like noises when I first apply the breaks. Is this a normal noise to hear from a functioning booster.

Compressor like noises are what you want to hear. This is the pump pumping pressure in the accumulator so you have a firm pedal. In my experience, the pump comes on frequently when driving. This is part of the reason these things fail.

Pay close attention to that noise and get used to when it comes on. Months before my pump went, it started making a screeching noise. I only noticed it a couple times when i would start the truck and at low speeds with the windows down. Didn't think too much of it, until the pump went and i started reading these threads. That's when I remembered the pump making that noise and put the two together. My point here is if you hear any screeching noises or noises that sound any different than the described above "compressor noise," address your braking system IMMEDIATELY.

I didn't address it in time, lost the pump and had to pay to get the part replaced quickly so i could get my DD back. Cost me almost $2100 parts and labor. If you're proactive about it or can park your truck until it's fixed, you can get your hands on a used unit for $400-$600. If you're over 250k miles, have your original pump and drive your truck long distances I would go so far as to recommend carrying a back up to swap in. Mine failed in town, which wasn't bad, but if i was rolling down I-95 and it failed, I wouldn't be happy.
 
I would not describe as a staccato compressor-like noise. The normal sound is more like a fairly quiet electric water pump that's hard to hear from the passenger compartment if the engine is running. If yours has changed in sound or is a loud compressor-like noise, get it checked out.

^This is a great description
 
I would not describe as a staccato compressor-like noise. The normal sound is more like a fairly quiet electric water pump that's hard to hear from the passenger compartment if the engine is running. If yours has changed in sound or is a loud compressor-like noise, get it checked out.

I've had my LX470 for about a year now (its a 2007) and have just recently started listening for this "electric motor" type noise. I can hear it come on right when i start the car and then I hear it once in a while when driving slowly. Having it come on during driving is a normal thing right? I imagine as you're using the breaks it just tops off the pressure for the next time you'll use them.
 
I've had my LX470 for about a year now (its a 2007) and have just recently started listening for this "electric motor" type noise. I can hear it come on right when i start the car and then I hear it once in a while when driving slowly. Having it come on during driving is a normal thing right? I imagine as you're using the breaks it just tops off the pressure for the next time you'll use them.
That's exactly how it works. Unfortunately, I don't think the motor's operation duration/frequency/sound necessarily changes before failure.
 
I think it just happened to me 😔

MVIMG_20190405_130841.jpg


Abs and all the other lights came on the dash with the screeching beep constantly. Luckily i was pulling into a parking lot when it happened. I thought i heard a crunching done coming from the x-fer case or trans as i turned into the lot, but not sure if it was the tires on the broken cement.

Anyways it's at the dealer and will update when they tell me the cause
 
I've had consistent ABS warnings and a few TBFs (total brake faiilures) with my '98. So finally fixed things by r

1.Replaced booster motor and accumulator valve - helped but didn't totally fix
2. Rebuilt the M/C, noticed one of the O-rings was damaged on the plunger- also helped, but still had problems
3. pulled off the accumulator, checked the little non-return valve underneath then bled the whole system. Seems to be working fine now.

If you think about it how can fluid bleed back to the reservoir when truck's off? It has to go backwards through the booster pump.
What prevents that? I think i's that goofy little check valve under the reservoir that toyota calls a silencer tube in the FSM.
Siilencer Tube.jpg
 
Further to this, everytime the pump spins backwards, the motor spins backwards too. My theory is that this eventually causes either the motor or pump to fail prematurely and that may be the cause of TBF (guessing on that one).

corrosion or contamination on the silencer tube seat can cause this. The accumulator can be spun off the pump valve body without removing anything else (after loosening one side of the bracket), pull out the spring and silencer tube and examine for corrosion underneath it. then get a q-tip and clean the silencer tube seat.

re-install, bleed all four and bob's your uncle, a free fix for bleed back issues.
 
Follow the possible paths back to the reservoir from the accumulator....
AC604954AC00ENG.png
 
Total brake failure yesterday while in the city headed to dinner. Crazy me I limped it home and got it in the driveway, I believe I have a busted line in the engine compartment.
 
Just had this happen in a parking lot (thankfully), got the abs light and beep right as my pedal hit the floorboard with no resistance and had to swerve and grab e-brake to minimize damage to another vehicle. I had no idea this was a "common" thing, had I left out the other driveway I might not be here to be pissed about it.
 

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