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- #81
At least the power works. Now if I could figure out how to talk to someone, and use all the pretty buttons I'd be stoked. The instructions with this thing blow btw.
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CB install day.
No need to reiterate the entire process as @RiFF RaFF did that for us with his build. Suffice it to say I followed his thread pretty much to the "T."
I just wish I had a SWR meter and normal instructions on how to use this freaking thing. Also I am hoping I made the correct solder (first attempt) inside the CB as noted in RiFF RaFF's thread. (I'm skeptical it'll work on my first try)
Frank @yodaTEQ 's bracket is obviously working like a charm. Like a lot of people I ran the coax thought the tail light grommet behind the trim, under the carpet, and under the console, and behind the dash.
Power directly to battery through DS firewall, grounded to a separate body screw next to the battery tray, inline fuse soldered in (first for that as well, HF soldering iron doesn't seem to work that well, or I suck, which is probably the case )
View attachment 1295316
Need a Wit's End lock box in my console, this much I know.
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In-line fuse.
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In case you needed another reason to get @sleeoffroad shortbus, it makes a great soldering iron holder and heat gun holder (pre-winch of course)
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Yodateq bracket, spring, and 3 ft firestix.
View attachment 1295320
I would add a little more slack in the wire for a slightly downward loop.
Even though I live in California and there is no rain here, I am OCD over water coming inside the car following the antenna wire's path.
(ask Joey what OCD is, in case you don't already know)
Got one word for you: "youtube".
Looks good, but not to nitpick but that routing wouldn't last 5min around the trails here. It would get snagged in a heart beat. Food for thought.
Looks good, but not to nitpick but that routing wouldn't last 5min around the trails here. It would get snagged in a heart beat. Food for thought.
From the ones I have seen drill I would have drilled on the other side (inward to right in the pic). Could just black silicone that current hole and drill a new one more inward in the light housing).Are you thinking the best option is routing through the inside of the hatch? My only concern with that was drilling another hole, but if snagging potential is high then I will certainly go that route.
The addiction plus basic human nature will dictate that even when you get the 315s they will look small after awhile. I'm on 37"s now wanting 40"s...
Well, if you blow a solenoid and want to replace it other tahn that no.Well, I think I found a solution.
I realized thin metal bends. I'll get the Slee mount to work with a vise tweak and a hammer although the solenoid won't be level. (Big deal?)
Hey guys, @Dragos80 , @NLXTACY , @retrofive , @GW Nugget is it a necessity that I be able to access the winch solenoid other than to plug in the controller once mounted?
It seems it bends the wires too much using either the warn mount or the Slee mount. However, I found this spot but I won't be able to remove it unless I remove the bumper, but I can access it for the controller.
With my limited experience it doesn't seem like a good solution.
View attachment 1302556
Well, if you blow a solenoid and want to replace it other tahn that no.
Looking good.
Could extend the remote plug and then not worry about it. Put it where you need to.