Builds Another 80 series build thread. The 'BlackHole' (1 Viewer)

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At least the power works. Now if I could figure out how to talk to someone, and use all the pretty buttons I'd be stoked. The instructions with this thing blow btw.

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CB install day.

No need to reiterate the entire process as @RiFF RaFF did that for us with his build. Suffice it to say I followed his thread pretty much to the "T."

I just wish I had a SWR meter and normal instructions on how to use this freaking thing. Also I am hoping I made the correct solder (first attempt) inside the CB as noted in RiFF RaFF's thread. (I'm skeptical it'll work on my first try)

Frank @yodaTEQ 's bracket is obviously working like a charm. Like a lot of people I ran the coax thought the tail light grommet behind the trim, under the carpet, and under the console, and behind the dash.

Power directly to battery through DS firewall, grounded to a separate body screw next to the battery tray, inline fuse soldered in (first for that as well, HF soldering iron doesn't seem to work that well, or I suck, which is probably the case )

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Need a Wit's End lock box in my console, this much I know.

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In-line fuse.

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In case you needed another reason to get @sleeoffroad shortbus, it makes a great soldering iron holder and heat gun holder (pre-winch of course)

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Yodateq bracket, spring, and 3 ft firestix.
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I would add a little more slack in the wire for a slightly downward loop.
Even though I live in California and there is no rain here, I am OCD over water coming inside the car following the antenna wire's path.






(ask Joey what OCD is, in case you don't already know)
 
I would add a little more slack in the wire for a slightly downward loop.
Even though I live in California and there is no rain here, I am OCD over water coming inside the car following the antenna wire's path.






(ask Joey what OCD is, in case you don't already know)

Noted, and will now be addressed tomorrow. Thanks for the insight.
 
Got one word for you: "youtube".

Yup, been watching all night. That German dude was the most helpful.

I'm thinking my solder job wasn't the best. OP1 and OP2 are damn near microscopic in this thing and I might need to do a better job at solder removal, but I'll know more after getting a meter.
 
Looks good, but not to nitpick but that routing wouldn't last 5min around the trails here. It would get snagged in a heart beat. Food for thought.

Are you thinking the best option is routing through the inside of the hatch? My only concern with that was drilling another hole, but if snagging potential is high then I will certainly go that route.
 
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Are you thinking the best option is routing through the inside of the hatch? My only concern with that was drilling another hole, but if snagging potential is high then I will certainly go that route.
From the ones I have seen drill I would have drilled on the other side (inward to right in the pic). Could just black silicone that current hole and drill a new one more inward in the light housing).

Sorry, just IMHO. We have thick brush, pine, madrone etc, aside from the pinstriping they have move my rack around on top.
 
Thanks to @beno , for the throttle sensor to clear the CEL P0510. While this guy says he ships only on tues/thurs I'm convinced he must be my next door neighbor it arrived so fast.

I've read others experience replacing this and it was essentially, "2 screws one disconnect, pull the old one out, put the new one in DONE."

Well, I've come to realize when I hear that I should probably multiply by a factor of 40 to get my time in minutes. Of course a 5 minute job turned into a 1.5 hour job when I dropped, and lost, one of the 2 screws...... Off to Home Depot to ransack their metric drawers.

In short, all done, Cruiser is purring like a kitten.... for now.



Out with the old.
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I really should have listened to @GW Nugget and @Qball out of the gate.....

My neighbor just got 35s on his beat up 94 and it looks 100x better than my 305 KO2s.

Looks like I'll be selling these at a loss and getting 35s....at least.

I hate it when I don't listen to other people.

Slee fairlead tonight- Warn tomorrow.

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The addiction plus basic human nature will dictate that even when you get the 315s they will look small after awhile. I'm on 37"s now wanting 40"s...
 
The addiction plus basic human nature will dictate that even when you get the 315s they will look small after awhile. I'm on 37"s now wanting 40"s...

Damn it bro you're killing me. I follow your thread pretty closely and imagine you have switching spring and shocks down to a science. You experiment with that stuff more than anyone I've seen.

So what you're saying is that I should opt for the Slee 6" lift, re-gear, and at least go with 37s....and I thought things were expensive before..
 
No, No.
I not telling you to do anything.
I'm just talking about the addiction & basic human behavior that bigger is better. It's up to you how much you feed that monster.
My trails are mostly rock hence the larger tires.
Build your rig to your needs.

Bye the way, I dig your build thread keep the pics coming. I need to get a rubber radio antenna, CB.
 
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Hey guys, @Dragos80 , @NLXTACY , @retrofive , @GW Nugget is it a necessity that I be able to access the winch solenoid other than to plug in the controller once mounted?

It seems it bends the wires too much using either the warn mount or the Slee mount. However, I found this spot but I won't be able to remove it unless I remove the bumper, but I can access it for the controller.

With my limited experience it doesn't seem like a good solution.

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Well, I think I found a solution.

I realized thin metal bends. I'll get the Slee mount to work with a vise tweak and a hammer although the solenoid won't be level. (Big deal?)
Well, if you blow a solenoid and want to replace it ;) other tahn that no.

Looking good. :)
 
Hey guys, @Dragos80 , @NLXTACY , @retrofive , @GW Nugget is it a necessity that I be able to access the winch solenoid other than to plug in the controller once mounted?

It seems it bends the wires too much using either the warn mount or the Slee mount. However, I found this spot but I won't be able to remove it unless I remove the bumper, but I can access it for the controller.

With my limited experience it doesn't seem like a good solution.

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Could extend the remote plug and then not worry about it. Put it where you need to.
 
Well, if you blow a solenoid and want to replace it ;) other tahn that no.

Looking good. :)

I'm hoping this isn't a frequent occurrence.... But then again I'm an optimist.


Could extend the remote plug and then not worry about it. Put it where you need to.

I might just do that if this doesn't look good or work as I anticipate.
 

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