- Thread starter
- #61
Alrighty, for those that have been as curious as I was as to options of fender hole delete, this is what I opted for after seeing @DOCBG rig at Slee. Mind you I talked to a few body shops and MUD members and this is the option that seemed to make the most sense for ME from a cost, time, and reliability perspective. Yes, I realize the best option is welding, IF you can find someone that won't screw it up (likely with the thinness of metal and I've seen a few botched jobs)
So with Rick's permission, here's a little about his process.
Fiberglass reinforced filler. While welding is primo there is the potential for other problems, cost twice as much (unless you can weld). When I checked out 2 places in Fort Collins the lowest estimate was 1500. Please don't start telling me "I found it for X" as YMMV, and I'm skeptical of anyone who's work I haven't seen first hand.
Rick's words with specifics left out due to it being his process, not mine.
"Sand the area to be lined, then grind the dented area. I don't grind it clean to the metal on an 80 because the sealer already has great integrity. Between the chemical bond of the filler resin and mechanical bond of the grind, there is plenty of bonding strength . By not completly grinding to the bare metal there won't be any risk of future corrosion."
That pretty much sums it up. Raptor lining was used, spray on, and 2 coats (or maybe 3, I honestly can't remember)
Should something not work, it fail, whatevs, I have no doubt that Rick will stand behind his work. So for those in the Front Range looking for a similar job hit me up, or DOCBG for Rick's contact.
So with Rick's permission, here's a little about his process.
Fiberglass reinforced filler. While welding is primo there is the potential for other problems, cost twice as much (unless you can weld). When I checked out 2 places in Fort Collins the lowest estimate was 1500. Please don't start telling me "I found it for X" as YMMV, and I'm skeptical of anyone who's work I haven't seen first hand.
Rick's words with specifics left out due to it being his process, not mine.
"Sand the area to be lined, then grind the dented area. I don't grind it clean to the metal on an 80 because the sealer already has great integrity. Between the chemical bond of the filler resin and mechanical bond of the grind, there is plenty of bonding strength . By not completly grinding to the bare metal there won't be any risk of future corrosion."
That pretty much sums it up. Raptor lining was used, spray on, and 2 coats (or maybe 3, I honestly can't remember)
Should something not work, it fail, whatevs, I have no doubt that Rick will stand behind his work. So for those in the Front Range looking for a similar job hit me up, or DOCBG for Rick's contact.