Builds Another 80 series build thread. The 'BlackHole' (1 Viewer)

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Alrighty, for those that have been as curious as I was as to options of fender hole delete, this is what I opted for after seeing @DOCBG rig at Slee. Mind you I talked to a few body shops and MUD members and this is the option that seemed to make the most sense for ME from a cost, time, and reliability perspective. Yes, I realize the best option is welding, IF you can find someone that won't screw it up (likely with the thinness of metal and I've seen a few botched jobs)

So with Rick's permission, here's a little about his process.

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Fiberglass reinforced filler. While welding is primo there is the potential for other problems, cost twice as much (unless you can weld). When I checked out 2 places in Fort Collins the lowest estimate was 1500. Please don't start telling me "I found it for X" as YMMV, and I'm skeptical of anyone who's work I haven't seen first hand.

Rick's words with specifics left out due to it being his process, not mine.

"Sand the area to be lined, then grind the dented area. I don't grind it clean to the metal on an 80 because the sealer already has great integrity. Between the chemical bond of the filler resin and mechanical bond of the grind, there is plenty of bonding strength . By not completly grinding to the bare metal there won't be any risk of future corrosion."

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That pretty much sums it up. Raptor lining was used, spray on, and 2 coats (or maybe 3, I honestly can't remember)

Should something not work, it fail, whatevs, I have no doubt that Rick will stand behind his work. So for those in the Front Range looking for a similar job hit me up, or DOCBG for Rick's contact.
 
Any prep done to the backside of the holes? Just squish it in there and sand it? Any particular filler preferred? Thank you for taking the time to post this up!
 
Any prep done to the backside of the holes? Just squish it in there and sand it? Any particular filler preferred? Thank you for taking the time to post this up!

Rick used dynatron dyna-glass. I believe the process actually requires denting the holes slightly then filling. I believe yes, just squish it in but I did come across this product that I was going to use if I took the time to do it myself.

There are a few mentions of it being used on MUD, when I searched but nothing terribly informative. Most of the reviews I found were from classic car restorers.

I'll give it a whirl myself if I only have a hole or two to fill.


http://www.eastwood.com/no-weld-hol...JgkuqJ6U5OPeSW7YyptRifmJ7HFxrNFGAcaAkKf8P8HAQ
 
Posted this already in 'what did you do with your 80' but for posterity I'll post it here as a reminder to myself of the cool trips I take with the family. (I tend to be a pessimist and only think about what I should be doing and not the good times I've had)

1200 miles of hotsprings roadtrip to Utah. Wife is now busting my chops to get a drawer system similar to @tominator, @TrekboxX , Goosegear etc.

I have to agree, having a 2 year old, a wife that likes to be dressed for any occasion, and family camping gear, organization is a must. Sine I have to sleep in the rig, solo, once a week I'll need to find something that allows me to take advantage of having removed the third row and one of the second row seats. Let the research begin.

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New window belt molding, thanks @beno .Next will be the window runs.

Got rid of the chrome look on side mirrors as well.

I'll post installed pics after I get the double sided tape to eliminate wind noise for the DS and PS belt molding. (per the TSB that someone posted a while back)

This stuff isn't nearly as cool as new bumpers but it still makes me feel good to scratch it off the list.

New molding

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Bye bye chrome.

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How much was the window molding in your last post? Mine is cracking and falling apart
 
This is one of my favorite colors...black with the chrome handles and logos. It reminds me of Wild Yoats 1996 Black and Tan...ROTW: Wild Yoat's 1996 "Black & Tan"

I think those chome mirrors are somewhat rare...not too many 80s made like that. Ooops. Yours are gone now!
 
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This is one of my favorite colors...black with the chrome handles and logos. It reminds me of Wild Yoats 1996 Black and Tan...ROTW: Wild Yoat's 1996 "Black & Tan"

I think those chome mirrors are somewhat rare...not too many 80s made like that. Ooops. Yours are gone now!

What! Seriously, those things are rare???? Guess it's a good thing I just pulled an extra chrome set off a junk yard cruiser!!!

Thanks for that link, stoked to check out another build.
 
Well, I've had crappy FM reception since I purchased the rig back in early September.

Much like everything else I've done myself I researched the crap out of this before diving in. The biggest takeaway from all of the threads was DO NOT LOSE THE ANTENNA CABLE that runs from the mast/motor to the head unit, otherwise you have to fish something through the firewall and around a multitude of crap."

My thoughts were of course, "Simple enough, cmon I'm not an idiot....."
(In actuality, yes,...yes, I am when it comes to working on my cruiser)

So, in short, I finally removed the antenna nut, dropped the auto-antenna motor, fished it out, cut the antenna coax from the motor, and taped some string to chase it through.... Wrong guy... You forgot about the rubber gasket at the firewall junction and the tape was to thick. SNAP!! "FU**!!! You gotta be kidding me." Coax broke, no way to get it through.

Commence fishing new cable.......after removing rubber gasket, remove glove box, reach up and right, find electrical wire (similar to coat hanger) and eventually pulled the new wire and antenna through.

After 6 hours, (you heard me) and 2 double tall cocktails, presto, I have TUNES!! (Until I install a snorkel)



Gasket of my woes... This is found at the firewall junction and your current antenna cable runs through this.
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Chasing new cable through using wire.
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Finished product.

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In case anyone was curious I used Napa antenna 730-5903 for 15.99. Came with exactly the amount of coax to run to head unit.

Anyone need a working antenna motor?? @NLXTACY @beno @Salue @Dragos80 @Dissent @DOCBG or anyone else? Just needs a new mast.

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I installed the multi plex coaxial to use the cb antenna as the radio antenna also. I did not notice a difference between that and the broken antenna, so I just have become complacent with bad reception. Thank you fir the offer though!

The build is coming along nicely. I sometimes wish I went the Shortbus route!
 
I installed the multi plex coaxial to use the cb antenna as the radio antenna also. I did not notice a difference between that and the broken antenna, so I just have become complacent with bad reception. Thank you fir the offer though!

The build is coming along nicely. I sometimes wish I went the Shortbus route!

Thanks bro. As I've learned around here, the fun never ends with the rig.

Winch is getting ordered this week. Just debating, as with everything else, which one to get. When I stopped in at Slee they said 95% of what most cruiser owners need can be done with an M8000 and a snatch block, so am currently leaning in that direction.

After that I'll need to debate whether it's worth wiring it to inside the rig. If so, I'll need to ask @NLXTACY where I can acquire the fancy stickers for the antenna/winch controls that it sounds like he made up in back in 2011.

The plan is to get some of this done by end of July as we'll be in Marble, CO. on the 31st celebrating little dudes b-day and hitting up Lead king Basin and hopefully, Schofield Pass.

Summer is here, time to get wheelin! (Or at least camping with the family in the backcountry)
 
I was leaning toward an M8000 too but am glad I went with the M12000 I found on Craigslist. I had one situation this past winter when I did a single line pull on the last wrap and was afraid it was going to stall. I'm pretty sure an 8k wouldn't have pulled me out without a snatch block. It was just my rig with the wife, four year old, two year old and six month old at the time. I bought a snatch block the next day! Of course this was in the snow we call NW concrete up here.
 
CB install day.

No need to reiterate the entire process as @RiFF RaFF did that for us with his build. Suffice it to say I followed his thread pretty much to the "T."

I just wish I had a SWR meter and normal instructions on how to use this freaking thing. Also I am hoping I made the correct solder (first attempt) inside the CB as noted in RiFF RaFF's thread. (I'm skeptical it'll work on my first try)

Frank @yodaTEQ 's bracket is obviously working like a charm. Like a lot of people I ran the coax thought the tail light grommet behind the trim, under the carpet, and under the console, and behind the dash.

Power directly to battery through DS firewall, grounded to a separate body screw next to the battery tray, inline fuse soldered in (first for that as well, HF soldering iron doesn't seem to work that well, or I suck, which is probably the case )

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Need a Wit's End lock box in my console, this much I know.

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In-line fuse.

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In case you needed another reason to get @sleeoffroad shortbus, it makes a great soldering iron holder and heat gun holder (pre-winch of course)

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Yodateq bracket, spring, and 3 ft firestix.
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