Please tell me that you are going to reinforce that a little more once you mount the springs. It would really suck to leave the rear portion of your frame on the trail.
Builds ...and it starts... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter woody
- Start date
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[quote author=Poser link=board=12;threadid=8547;start=msg87226#msg87226 date=1073617178]
Just FYI-
If a hard point is not bolted on, the tech dorks at Dresser will not pass your truck...
But who cares about that place right?
-Steve
[/quote]
Help me understand this please?
Just FYI-
If a hard point is not bolted on, the tech dorks at Dresser will not pass your truck...
But who cares about that place right?
-Steve
[/quote]
Help me understand this please?
[quote author=OH CANADA link=board=12;threadid=8547;start=msg88761#msg88761 date=1073881801]
Please tell me that you are going to reinforce that a little more once you mount the springs. It would really suck to leave the rear portion of your frame on the trail.
[/quote]
No it wouldnt....that part is worthless once he hooks up the 1/4 ellipticals...
Mine is completly cut out....from there back it weighed 80#!!!!!
Please tell me that you are going to reinforce that a little more once you mount the springs. It would really suck to leave the rear portion of your frame on the trail.
[/quote]
No it wouldnt....that part is worthless once he hooks up the 1/4 ellipticals...
Mine is completly cut out....from there back it weighed 80#!!!!!
- Thread starter
- #84
[quote author=wngrog link=board=12;threadid=8547;start=msg88762#msg88762 date=1073881992]
Help me understand this please?
[/quote]
http://www.memorial4x4.org - WI event, twice yearly....their goofy tech regs require nothing be welded on, only bolted....very strange stuff....still amazes me that I pass!
Help me understand this please?
[/quote]
http://www.memorial4x4.org - WI event, twice yearly....their goofy tech regs require nothing be welded on, only bolted....very strange stuff....still amazes me that I pass!
- Thread starter
- #85
[quote author=OH CANADA link=board=12;threadid=8547;start=msg88761#msg88761 date=1073881801]
Please tell me that you are going to reinforce that a little more once you mount the springs. It would really suck to leave the rear portion of your frame on the trail.
[/quote]
the inside rail will get a similar 3/16" plate but nothing more than that. Nolen is spot on, the back of the tub is commonly just removed for this type of link suspension, just no need for the added weight. Mine will be undergoing additional tub changes next winter, but it's still quite light in stock form.
Please tell me that you are going to reinforce that a little more once you mount the springs. It would really suck to leave the rear portion of your frame on the trail.
[/quote]
the inside rail will get a similar 3/16" plate but nothing more than that. Nolen is spot on, the back of the tub is commonly just removed for this type of link suspension, just no need for the added weight. Mine will be undergoing additional tub changes next winter, but it's still quite light in stock form.
I am glad that you decided to recess the spring mount into the frame. I think it will work better for you than outboarding them 
- Thread starter
- #87
well, inbetween beatings of the webhost, I did squeeze in a few hours of play time today....
Pic 1 is the spring pack with the associated brackets for the frame and the bolt-plate. The frameside stuff is 1/4", the plate is 3/8". The frameside stuff will get some additional reinforcement. Center hole is 5/8" for the head of the spring pack bolt, the clamping holes are 1/2" diameter.
Medusa, you'll know this...I've got 2-1/4" packs mocked up now, but have designed all the bracketry for a 3" spring pack, ALA F250/350 rears. However, I'm unsure of the center pin to eye measurement....I bet you know this off the top of your head....
BTW: mine is currently 27-1/2"
Pic 1 is the spring pack with the associated brackets for the frame and the bolt-plate. The frameside stuff is 1/4", the plate is 3/8". The frameside stuff will get some additional reinforcement. Center hole is 5/8" for the head of the spring pack bolt, the clamping holes are 1/2" diameter.
Medusa, you'll know this...I've got 2-1/4" packs mocked up now, but have designed all the bracketry for a 3" spring pack, ALA F250/350 rears. However, I'm unsure of the center pin to eye measurement....I bet you know this off the top of your head....
BTW: mine is currently 27-1/2"
- Thread starter
- #88
and...the shot of it mocked into position. Nothing tacked/welded yet, but it gives an idea of what the positioning will be like...
and no, the interference between the lower arm and the spring pack will not be a problem...the tire will contact the fenderwell WAY before...
and no, the interference between the lower arm and the spring pack will not be a problem...the tire will contact the fenderwell WAY before...
Snazzy weldin' shoes.
I bootie-fabbed my buttocks off today. Junk's LC shirt held up amazingly well as a welding jacket, but my arms are a bit sunburnt.
I bootie-fabbed my buttocks off today. Junk's LC shirt held up amazingly well as a welding jacket, but my arms are a bit sunburnt.
TJDIV
UP of MI.
I've been watching this thread since day one, and still find myself with a sore brain trying to figure out how in the hell you guys come up with this stuff.
I guess I need to haul ass back to the Chit Chat section.
I guess I need to haul ass back to the Chit Chat section.
i still can't understand how 1/4 eliptical gives good articulation... it's only half a leaf spring.... less length for down travel as far as i can see.
not doubting you because i know it works, it's the why i don't see
not doubting you because i know it works, it's the why i don't see
- Thread starter
- #93
IMO, any link suspension is an improvement in any situation over the standard leaf spring...coil, quarter, or coilover. The spring only controls your ride height and the spring rate controls the travel. The quarter just happens to be a cheaper option and mor easily adjusted than coils.
IMO, it's perfect for the situations you state....and steep hillclimbs is one of the reason I switched from leafs to the links. My rig worked great in boulder fields, but point it uphill, and it lacked traction. This should be a noticable improvement.
IMO, it's perfect for the situations you state....and steep hillclimbs is one of the reason I switched from leafs to the links. My rig worked great in boulder fields, but point it uphill, and it lacked traction. This should be a noticable improvement.
- Thread starter
- #95
you can do it both ends, but fitting things is tougher up front. The first Sniper design used 1/4 ellipticals all around...the rig was heavy overall, but the design still works well.
is 3/4 elipt any good or is it like a huge extended shackle, as in it unloads down hills too easily etc.
i can see why 1/4 elipt would be good uphills, what sort of anti squat properties does it have... i'd think it'd be pretty good.
hurry up woody so we can replace the 1/4 elipt pic of the jeep with a pick of your cruiser
i can see why 1/4 elipt would be good uphills, what sort of anti squat properties does it have... i'd think it'd be pretty good.
hurry up woody so we can replace the 1/4 elipt pic of the jeep with a pick of your cruiser
Eskimo
SILVER Star
[quote author=bad_religion_au link=board=12;threadid=8547;start=msg92909#msg92909 date=1074642319]
is 3/4 elipt any good or is it like a huge extended shackle, as in it unloads down hills too easily etc.
i can see why 1/4 elipt would be good uphills, what sort of anti squat properties does it have... i'd think it'd be pretty good.
[/quote]
a 3/4 elliptic is a normal leaf spring, with a "buggy leaf" on the shackle. somewhat better than a double shackle, but still a gimmick IMO.
a 1/4 elliptic has whatever anti-squat properties you design (or more accurately, build, hee hee) into the suspension. it could have 0%, or 200%.
The reason you normally see alot of rear-steer on a 1/4 elliptic setup is the lower links being oriented straight ahead, instead of triagualated.. packaging reasons mainly, but again, purely because of the way the suspension is designed, not the 1/4 el. itself.
is 3/4 elipt any good or is it like a huge extended shackle, as in it unloads down hills too easily etc.
i can see why 1/4 elipt would be good uphills, what sort of anti squat properties does it have... i'd think it'd be pretty good.
[/quote]
a 3/4 elliptic is a normal leaf spring, with a "buggy leaf" on the shackle. somewhat better than a double shackle, but still a gimmick IMO.
a 1/4 elliptic has whatever anti-squat properties you design (or more accurately, build, hee hee) into the suspension. it could have 0%, or 200%.
The reason you normally see alot of rear-steer on a 1/4 elliptic setup is the lower links being oriented straight ahead, instead of triagualated.. packaging reasons mainly, but again, purely because of the way the suspension is designed, not the 1/4 el. itself.
[quote author=wngrog link=board=12;threadid=8547;start=msg88762#msg88762 date=1073881992]
Help me understand this please?
[/quote]
The primary concern with a welded hard point is not having any practical way to verify the integrity of the weld, or the material used in it, without destroying it. Requiring that hard points be bolted removes this question, and the subjectivity of the issue. While many know what type of rod/wire, gas mix and heat to use for a certain material, there are far more that do not. I personally have been welding for over 18 years, and feel very comfortable in my welding skills, and do not run, and will not run a welded hard point on my vehicles.
I am not saying that a welded hard point is not any good, or that they should not be used. Many people have used them for years without any issue.
Good luck!
-Steve
Help me understand this please?
[/quote]
The primary concern with a welded hard point is not having any practical way to verify the integrity of the weld, or the material used in it, without destroying it. Requiring that hard points be bolted removes this question, and the subjectivity of the issue. While many know what type of rod/wire, gas mix and heat to use for a certain material, there are far more that do not. I personally have been welding for over 18 years, and feel very comfortable in my welding skills, and do not run, and will not run a welded hard point on my vehicles.
I am not saying that a welded hard point is not any good, or that they should not be used. Many people have used them for years without any issue.
Good luck!
-Steve
OK, you mean both end of my springs should have the hangers bolted to the frame instead of welded? I don't get it.
???
???
You bring up a valid point Nolan. I am not here questioning your, or anyone else's fabrication skills, or saying that the idea of a welded hard point is wrong. The rule there is in place for safety and liability to make the people that insure the event happy. I agree that needing to bolt a hard point on, but being able to fabricate a frame, suspension, axles, rollover protective structure, or anything else, and not have the integrity of it questioned is silly. I have argued this point to the powers that be, to no common ground. They will not even admit that I am correct in pointing out the contradiction in this...
Oh well.
I have not ever been in a situation that I have needed to weld a hard point on, or could not fabricate a bolt on one. I like the idea of being able to inspect the hard wear after a hard pull, and checking for elongated holes. Just something that I am used to I guess, but...
My seatbelt tabs are welded to my cradle, that my seat belts bolt to, my cradle system bolts to my cage, and the seats are bolted to that, and I welded all of that, I welded the roll cage, and the roof rack, the steering gear mount, that is welded to the frame, the front bumper and winch mount that is bolted to the frame, and on and on....
Trust me, I see your point.
Good luck!
-Steve
Oh well.
I have not ever been in a situation that I have needed to weld a hard point on, or could not fabricate a bolt on one. I like the idea of being able to inspect the hard wear after a hard pull, and checking for elongated holes. Just something that I am used to I guess, but...
My seatbelt tabs are welded to my cradle, that my seat belts bolt to, my cradle system bolts to my cage, and the seats are bolted to that, and I welded all of that, I welded the roll cage, and the roof rack, the steering gear mount, that is welded to the frame, the front bumper and winch mount that is bolted to the frame, and on and on....
Trust me, I see your point.
Good luck!
-Steve
