Anatomy of a KDSS valve (1 Viewer)

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All, thanks a lot for the support! I've learned a ton on this board and just wanted to give back.

See my edits for posts 9 & 10 showing the ball bearing mystery solved, and the operational states of the whole valve assembly.


I suspect it’s something only you would do (and I mean that in a good way!).

Am I that predictable?! Hah.. and no, I didn't take it in a bad way. I just find time to satisfy my overwhelming curiosity, and sometimes that means chopping up rusty hunks of metal to figure out what's inside.

...which fittings and air-over-hydraulic pump will work to service these valves without recourse to a limited number of dealers with the SST.

That is somewhere in the long-term plans. From my reading of the FSM either the SST or the supplier of it is basically required. It has to be able to flow into both upper and lower chamber circuits at the same time with up to 1016psi to perform the bleed operation as listed in the manual. While not exceeding 1065psi. That is a pretty narrow window, or was for the hydraulic systems I worked on in a past life.

I've done some homework in the past to figure out who makes the SST and it is available, but it won't be cheap. I guess we could rig something up with an appropriately specced air over hydraulic pump, but even that won't be cheap, or used often enough for us to just get one and keep it in the garage.

But yes, I totally get not wanting to rely on the dealer for this. Somewhere in the back of my mind is the desire to flush my KDSS system because on a fundamental level "sealed for life" just irks me, even if it's not moving a ton of fluid or has many moving parts. We'll see what mileage the more common KDSS issues start popping up as people stack on the miles.. but so far it seems like a quite trouble free system.

The fittings are very easy to get to if you want to have a look. Just find the hydraulic lines on the outside of the frame rail under the driver's side rocker panel. There will be two hex caps that are horizontal, facing either forward or back.. cant remember. Unscrew those caps, and you will be staring at the fittings. You don't have to worry about pressure escaping, as in these junction blocks there are shutter valves similar in operation to the ones on the bottom of the KDSS valve. Those must be opened to allow pressure into the fitting area.
 
@vcheng you'll like this: Toyota-4Runner.org

Looks like the pump is about $240 on amazon, then you'd need all the fittings and adapters.
Not sure I trust that AC system pressure rated QD fitting they are using. Also note his pic of the SST has stainless fittings, which I'd feel much more comfortable with given the pressures needed. We'd need to plumb up two lines & fittings for ours and get a more precise gauge, but it is good intel on what is needed.
 
@vcheng you'll like this: Toyota-4Runner.org

Looks like the pump is about $240 on amazon, then you'd need all the fittings and adapters.
Not sure I trust that AC system pressure rated QD fitting they are using. Also note his pic of the SST has stainless fittings, which I'd feel much more comfortable with given the pressures needed. We'd need to plumb up two lines & fittings for ours and get a more precise gauge, but it is good intel on what is needed.

Thank you for the link. I hope to pursue this to the point where it is possible to service the KDSS system without recourse to the dealer.
 
@bloc great addition to the knowledge base.

@Romer definitely worthy of being added to the FAQ section.
 
bringing this back from the dead, but is there a part number for the unit?
Big list of them by vehicle year in the first post. I believe the last number has superseded all the others though.
 
Big list of them by vehicle year in the first post. I believe the last number has superseded all the others though.

That's what I get for being too eager to view all the photos and read the rest of the posts first.

Thanks man.
 
That's what I get for being too eager to view all the photos and read the rest of the posts first.

Thanks man.
Trust me, I’ve done the same thing.

Any time.

Were you asking about the part numbers in preparation for changing a valve or something?
 
Trust me, I’ve done the same thing.

Any time.

Were you asking about the part numbers in preparation for changing a valve or something?

That’s right. I just picked up a 2016 w super duper low miles but it’s been in the north east with salt. There’s some surface rust. I’m driving back to the west coast tomorrow with it and I am just making a list of spare parts to order to stock for the next few decades while they’re still available.

I really don’t like being in the situation like a lot of the classics when spares are sparse or non-existent. Trying to do my part in showing OEMs that we need more spares made for the pre-existing vehicles out there by generating market demand.

We have until 2031 to gather all the parts we can while they’re still being manufactured under law.
 
Also, I'm even further convinced that the common "drive onto a 4x4 KDSS 'fix'" bandaid is absolutely not the correct way to address things. If the valve is working right, and we assume it is, if the vehicle didn't have a lean before the lift, your lean after the lift is a function of spring length or bushing position, NOT an imbalance.
From my anecdotal experience I 100% agree with that assessment.
 
Very nice, @bloc. Worthy of a gold star, if I could issue one ;)
 
That’s right. I just picked up a 2016 w super duper low miles but it’s been in the north east with salt. There’s some surface rust. I’m driving back to the west coast tomorrow with it and I am just making a list of spare parts to order to stock for the next few decades while they’re still available.

I really don’t like being in the situation like a lot of the classics when spares are sparse or non-existent. Trying to do my part in showing OEMs that we need more spares made for the pre-existing vehicles out there by generating market demand.

We have until 2031 to gather all the parts we can while they’re still being manufactured under law.
Probably a good topic for a separate thread but I’d be curious on your list of parts to inventory. I’ve actually had the thought of buying a rear end collision totaled 200 for my model year.
 
Probably a good topic for a separate thread but I’d be curious on your list of parts to inventory. I’ve actually had the thought of buying a rear end collision totaled 200 for my model year.
I typically think of collision parts and areas of wear that paint and filler material won't help.

Exterior Door handles, bumper covers, lights/lenses, window trim are made of plastic/rubber that go bad overtime exposed to light, air, and elements for example. I'd look at interior parts too and source video screens.

Electronics/hardware that's model specific or might only be made for a short time.
  • Locking Differentials from Harrop/Eaton
  • Glass products
  • Sunroof hardware
  • Window Regulators
  • Door Locks
  • Floor Mats (people usually throw these away cuz they get weathertech, also, weathertech will stop selling old models at some point too)
  • Some steering/suspension parts (spindles, arms, steering racks) (not coilovers, shocks, springs, and linkage because these can always be custom made)
  • Emissions crap like air pumps
 
I typically think of collision parts and areas of wear that paint and filler material won't help.

Exterior Door handles, bumper covers, lights/lenses, window trim are made of plastic/rubber that go bad overtime exposed to light, air, and elements for example. I'd look at interior parts too and source video screens.

Electronics/hardware that's model specific or might only be made for a short time.
  • Locking Differentials from Harrop/Eaton
  • Glass products
  • Sunroof hardware
  • Window Regulators
  • Door Locks
  • Floor Mats (people usually throw these away cuz they get weathertech, also, weathertech will stop selling old models at some point too)
  • Some steering/suspension parts (spindles, arms, steering racks) (not coilovers, shocks, springs, and linkage because these can always be custom made)
  • Emissions crap like air pumps
I wouldn't bother with anything that's not US-specific. The LC will have a longer service life overseas, so you should be able to find many parts there.
 
I wouldn't bother with anything that's not US-specific. The LC will have a longer service life overseas, so you should be able to find many parts there.
Yeah. The problem is shipping charges, and still, parts discontinuation can be problematic. Toyota and the OEMs would only manufacture enough to make them available for warranty repair. The 200 series is also fewer in terms of total sales quantity than say the 100 series or 80s series. Plus there were three revisions of the 200 with three different interiors and exteriors.
 

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