bloc
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #21
All, thanks a lot for the support! I've learned a ton on this board and just wanted to give back.
See my edits for posts 9 & 10 showing the ball bearing mystery solved, and the operational states of the whole valve assembly.
Am I that predictable?! Hah.. and no, I didn't take it in a bad way. I just find time to satisfy my overwhelming curiosity, and sometimes that means chopping up rusty hunks of metal to figure out what's inside.
That is somewhere in the long-term plans. From my reading of the FSM either the SST or the supplier of it is basically required. It has to be able to flow into both upper and lower chamber circuits at the same time with up to 1016psi to perform the bleed operation as listed in the manual. While not exceeding 1065psi. That is a pretty narrow window, or was for the hydraulic systems I worked on in a past life.
I've done some homework in the past to figure out who makes the SST and it is available, but it won't be cheap. I guess we could rig something up with an appropriately specced air over hydraulic pump, but even that won't be cheap, or used often enough for us to just get one and keep it in the garage.
But yes, I totally get not wanting to rely on the dealer for this. Somewhere in the back of my mind is the desire to flush my KDSS system because on a fundamental level "sealed for life" just irks me, even if it's not moving a ton of fluid or has many moving parts. We'll see what mileage the more common KDSS issues start popping up as people stack on the miles.. but so far it seems like a quite trouble free system.
The fittings are very easy to get to if you want to have a look. Just find the hydraulic lines on the outside of the frame rail under the driver's side rocker panel. There will be two hex caps that are horizontal, facing either forward or back.. cant remember. Unscrew those caps, and you will be staring at the fittings. You don't have to worry about pressure escaping, as in these junction blocks there are shutter valves similar in operation to the ones on the bottom of the KDSS valve. Those must be opened to allow pressure into the fitting area.
See my edits for posts 9 & 10 showing the ball bearing mystery solved, and the operational states of the whole valve assembly.
I suspect it’s something only you would do (and I mean that in a good way!).
Am I that predictable?! Hah.. and no, I didn't take it in a bad way. I just find time to satisfy my overwhelming curiosity, and sometimes that means chopping up rusty hunks of metal to figure out what's inside.
...which fittings and air-over-hydraulic pump will work to service these valves without recourse to a limited number of dealers with the SST.
That is somewhere in the long-term plans. From my reading of the FSM either the SST or the supplier of it is basically required. It has to be able to flow into both upper and lower chamber circuits at the same time with up to 1016psi to perform the bleed operation as listed in the manual. While not exceeding 1065psi. That is a pretty narrow window, or was for the hydraulic systems I worked on in a past life.
I've done some homework in the past to figure out who makes the SST and it is available, but it won't be cheap. I guess we could rig something up with an appropriately specced air over hydraulic pump, but even that won't be cheap, or used often enough for us to just get one and keep it in the garage.
But yes, I totally get not wanting to rely on the dealer for this. Somewhere in the back of my mind is the desire to flush my KDSS system because on a fundamental level "sealed for life" just irks me, even if it's not moving a ton of fluid or has many moving parts. We'll see what mileage the more common KDSS issues start popping up as people stack on the miles.. but so far it seems like a quite trouble free system.
The fittings are very easy to get to if you want to have a look. Just find the hydraulic lines on the outside of the frame rail under the driver's side rocker panel. There will be two hex caps that are horizontal, facing either forward or back.. cant remember. Unscrew those caps, and you will be staring at the fittings. You don't have to worry about pressure escaping, as in these junction blocks there are shutter valves similar in operation to the ones on the bottom of the KDSS valve. Those must be opened to allow pressure into the fitting area.