Builds An Accidental Frame Off.................. (10 Viewers)

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I need some of that for California Gold and the build. Bitterroot is some beautiful country.
Thx :)



@Helipilot has some numbers from McMaster Carr for the rubber weatherstripping that was used under the tranny cover, I bought a roll from the local hardware store. 3/4" wide by about 1/4" height, it worked like a charm under my tranny cover.
 
Don't tell anyone? You are showing everyone!
PS Nice truck. I'm in in your area and I saw your rig on Brooks near malfunction junction a few weeks back.

Not my rig, I haven’t been up to the Zoo in my 40 yet, I’m still getting it to the reliable stage before I wander to far from home base.
 
Well you may have a buddy then, there is another pre-75 rustic green cruiser with ravalli plates running around.


I know there is one that looks just like mine running around Hamilton, green 73-74, his looks to be pretty original.
 
Not to hijack your thread Ryan, but this is the information on a suitable gasket for the transmission. I ordered it for my '77 FJ40. Mcmaster-Carr Part Number MCM#93375K37 .312 Thick, .625 Wide, 50' Long Roll. Extruded Neo Sponge w/PSA. It appears to be closed cell so it won't/shouldn't hold water.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled program.
 
That time of the year now, big dry flies and good fish.View attachment 1661552

Tech-apparently the fuel gauge is wrong on the 40, I ran out of fuel about 300 yards short of the gas station. Gauge showed 1/4 tank. Filled it up and the damn poly tank leaked all over the place, spilling about a half gallon of fuel in the cab.

Screw it, I went fishing.

Best therapy for whatever’s ailing you! What bug you got there? I tie some ugly foam grasshoppers - stockers in local streams here will eat bout anything ;)
 
Best therapy for whatever’s ailing you! What bug you got there? I tie some ugly foam grasshoppers - stockers in local streams here will eat bout anything ;)


That one is a big skwala stonefly, #10 if I remember

2317D114-84F4-407D-A024-60F2BDC948B5.jpeg
 
Put on some new OEM weatherstripping on the front doors last night finally. No pics, I was too busy working on it, had my 13 yo daughter helping tape the weatherstripping in place while I worked my way around the door with the adhesive. once I had it glued all the way around I closed the door and let the adhesive set, about 30-45 min later I removed all the tape, closed it up, and went and drank a few cold beers. This morning on the way to work it was great, no more draft blowing in while running down the highway, the doors close solid, and it cuts down on some of the road noise.


Now for the rear hatch, and to plug all the holes in the firewall.

I am planning to change my rear shackles sometime soon as well, the springs make contact with the spring perches when we are loaded down, and it has just a horrible shackle angle with the stock size shackles. I'm putting in some 5 1/2" anti inversion shackles, only on the rear. Hopefully that will remedy the "squat".

In the meantime I think we are going to Yellowstone this weekend.
 
I really only come back to 'mud when I get a status update for this thread. Nice to see your project continuing to progress.

How's the pig coming along?
 
Quite nicely, actually.

I've cut out the big bondo bodges on the fender, and fabricated patches, though I'm just driving it with holes for the time being.

It was my DD since October. I've sorted out alignment issues, so now it drives and tracks really well. Also installed a new accelerator return spring, which fixed the majority of the carb issues. Still is overly cold blooded, which is pry because the preheater is no longer attached, and it sometimes gets over rich on shut down.

Otherwise, I've been focused on my 67 Mustang convertible, which is now more or less done except for some details, so I can now start working on Zeke.
 
Quite nicely, actually.

I've cut out the big bondo bodges on the fender, and fabricated patches, though I'm just driving it with holes for the time being.

It was my DD since October. I've sorted out alignment issues, so now it drives and tracks really well. Also installed a new accelerator return spring, which fixed the majority of the carb issues. Still is overly cold blooded, which is pry because the preheater is no longer attached, and it sometimes gets over rich on shut down.

Otherwise, I've been focused on my 67 Mustang convertible, which is now more or less done except for some details, so I can now start working on Zeke.


Sweet, enjoy it on the road as much as you can!

I'll be passing through your neck of the woods at the end of July.
 
I swapped the rear shackles on Monday, went from the stock length to about 5 1/2" anti-inversion shackles on the back end. They raised the ass up about 2 1/2" once it was all said and done. I have noticed a new grumble coming from the driveline after I did the swap, I haven't figured out what is causing it yet. I'm still trying to figure out if is speed related or RPM related, sometimes I feel it at a lower speed, sometimes at 60-65 MPH.

Maybe I need to shim the rear axle to adjust the angles of the driveshaft?? That is just the first thing that pops to mind.

Pulled the BMW bucket seats also, put the OEM seats back in, drove it for 2 days.

Remembered why I pulled the OEM seats to begin with.

Pulled the OEM seats, put the driver BMW seat back in. I need to figure out how to lower the passenger BMW seat about 4 inches.

Beer.:beer::beer::beer:
 
I swapped the rear shackles on Monday, went from the stock length to about 5 1/2" anti-inversion shackles on the back end. They raised the ass up about 2 1/2" once it was all said and done. I have noticed a new grumble coming from the driveline after I did the swap, I haven't figured out what is causing it yet. I'm still trying to figure out if is speed related or RPM related, sometimes I feel it at a lower speed, sometimes at 60-65 MPH.

Maybe I need to shim the rear axle to adjust the angles of the driveshaft??

That is positively it. 2-1/2" of lift has changed the working angles on the rear drive shaft u-joints. The working angles of both need to be as close to the same as possible, though they will be opposite. It will be speed related, and can happen at more than one speed, though they will always be at the same speed.

Here is some interweb reading that explains what you need to do, and how to calculate the degree of shims you will need:

Driveline 101
 
@1911 Georg is where I bought my steel shims for the front a few years ago, I was hoping I wouldn't need to do the rear as well.

Add that to my list!
 

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