Builds An Accidental Frame Off.................. (8 Viewers)

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Might want to recheck, intake and exhaust lash are not the same. I think .008 and .014? I would need to look it up.
 
Might want to recheck, intake and exhaust lash are not the same. I think .008 and .014? I would need to look it up.
I set them both at .014 based on the different cam setup from Delta Cam. Browsing a couple threads here there was some discussion about different valve lash for different spec cams, I have the KC grind from them.

Here's a pic stolen from another thread.
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Wasn’t valve adjustment how your frame off started?
 
I set them both at .014 based on the different cam setup from Delta Cam. Browsing a couple threads here there was some discussion about different valve lash for different spec cams, I have the KC grind from them.

Here's a pic stolen from another thread.
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I did not realize you had a non stock cam. continue on! haha
 
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I did not realize you has a non stock cam. continue on! haha
I appreciate the input though, 100%. In reality I have no idea what I'm doing.
 
This is great tech info @rkymtnflyfisher, although a bit disconcerting for those of us that don’t have knowledge of the history of our old motors, specifically if there has been any cam work. Didn’t even realize that the lash settings would be different than original, but makes sense. Now I have to throw this potential conflict in my quest to get a properly functioning motor. Not sure what/how I can determine cam specs without tearing down the motor. I guess I could do some trial and error with the lash settings. Is it common for ground/modified cams to have equal intake/exhaust valve lash settings? @whitey45? The settings on mine when I got it (again, no known history on this engine for me) were pretty much close to OEM spec, so maybe that answers my questions.
 
This is great tech info @rkymtnflyfisher, although a bit disconcerting for those of us that don’t have knowledge of the history of our old motors, specifically if there has been any cam work. Didn’t even realize that the lash settings would be different than original, but makes sense. Now I have to throw this potential conflict in my quest to get a properly functioning motor. Not sure what/how I can determine cam specs without tearing down the motor. I guess I could do some trial and error with the lash settings. Is it common for ground/modified cams to have equal intake/exhaust valve lash settings? @whitey45? The settings on mine when I got it (again, no known history on this engine for me) were pretty much close to OEM spec, so maybe that answers my questions.
I didn't realize the lash would be different either until I was reading a couple other threads, and I have no idea how to determine if a cam is not OEM spec. I guess it would need to be pulled and mic'ed to see what the actual measurements are.

I did gain a little vacuum reading, when I had the lash set at OEM spec it was only pulling 12-13, with the .014 lash it was up to about 16.5.


There was no noticeable improvement in performance yesterday on the test drive.


The real test will be if I see any improvement in MPG.
 
You can pull the valve cover and rotate the engine to measure valve lift. Without pulling the cam, that’s about it as far as I know. You should be able to tell from that if it is non-stock lift, but that won’t tell you duration, lobe separation, etc unless you’re really good.
 
One from fishing in Pennsylvania during the green drake hatch on Penns Creek.
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the other from somewhere in western Maryland.
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Sometime right after I bought it.
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Still unclear as to why you restored it. Looked pretty clean to me.
 
This is great tech info @rkymtnflyfisher, although a bit disconcerting for those of us that don’t have knowledge of the history of our old motors, specifically if there has been any cam work. Didn’t even realize that the lash settings would be different than original, but makes sense. Now I have to throw this potential conflict in my quest to get a properly functioning motor. Not sure what/how I can determine cam specs without tearing down the motor. I guess I could do some trial and error with the lash settings. Is it common for ground/modified cams to have equal intake/exhaust valve lash settings? @whitey45? The settings on mine when I got it (again, no known history on this engine for me) were pretty much close to OEM spec, so maybe that answers my questions.
Use a dial indicator (plunger type) mounted on the pushrod side of the rocker arm and measure two turns of the crank. Obviously, there isn't much data to compare it to, but at least you will know the lobe profile at whatever degrees of the camshaft gear (looking at distributor rotor). No teardown necessary.
 
One of the things that can mess up a lash measurement is wear on the bottom of the rocker arm shaft. There is this pesky groove that is where all the wear occurs. If you shoot for more lash, and measure, your measurement will be too little, and you will correct it the wrong way. The rocker arm jumps the wear spot, when the lash is too big, and the reading gets tighter, which is hard for tuning purposes. My groove is primarily at the oiler hole, but an '82 2F head had a different (ish), but similar, set-up. I learned this when I got an audible click on my '75 head, and tried to troubleshoot. My lash is less than factory setting, and I'm accounting for wear on the valve side of the rocker arm. I don't want a whole bunch of movement of the rocker arm when the valves are closed. As long as your valves fully close at all operating temp, your engine will get what it needs to and from the manifolds, because the cam can do its intended job.

BTW, I don't measure lash when the engine is running.
 
Still unclear as to why you restored it. Looked pretty clean to me.
Just a little lipstick on that pig, it looked good until I started poking around on some stuff.


Seems the PO was a bondo wizard.

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