1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Am I being unreasonable, fair, or overpaying????

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by PFMFJ80, Dec 6, 2017.

  1. PFMFJ80

    PFMFJ80

    Messages:
    40
    Likes Received:
    30
    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2017
    Location:
    Burke, VA
    Here is the link of the truck I was looking at:

    1991 Fj80 Toyota Land cruiser

    I must say, that I'm looking every website around and they are either more expensive or look considerably less well taken care than this one... If I pay the 3,500 he is asking for it means that I would need to put into it $100 in bearings, $75 aprox in the side lens, $75 in the seat belt, and $10 in bulbs. So it would be $3,785, plus me doing the work myself, which the only thing that would give me some work are the bearings, but those are not a big deal.... decisions, decisions.....
     
  2. LS1FJ40

    LS1FJ40 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    8,206
    Likes Received:
    11,210
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2005
    Location:
    Cedar Rapids, IA
    I have a few of thoughts on this. I don't think you are being unreasonable (other than asking a seller to help you with labor, I'd tell you to pound salt).

    My thoughts:
    1) The blown head gasket issue is a bit of a wive's tale. Is the 1FZ-FE more prone to HG failure than a 3FE? Yes. You have an iron block and aluminum head, different coefficients of expansion. Is it something that every 1FZ-FE will blow? No. There are countless people with 300k+ miles on the OG HG.

    2) People dog on the 3FE as being underpowered. All 80s with stock motors are underpowered pigs. I've had my 92 since new and never felt the need for more power. Is it a motor that is losing support from TMC? Yes. But what ever fails on the 3FE?

    3) If you are buying this to keep for 5 years what difference does $500 make? $8.33/month. $1000 is $16.66/month. And so on. If $15-20/month makes a difference in your financial security then you shouldn't be buying a 20-25 year old rig with questionable maintenance (every 80 has questionable maintenance no matter what the PO says).

    4) Miles are irrelevant. 200k or 240k means absolutely nothing to me as far as value.

    5) "Value" of an 80 is different in every town/state/region. And everybody has a story of how they got theirs for a much better deal than what you paid. Many of them are full of s***. I bought my 80 series 5 minutes after it posted on Craigslist. Well, I promised to buy it. Sight unseen. I wired the money to a fellow mudder that went and looked it over and gave him the cash. It was ragged out, 312k miles, smelled like s***, looked like s***, was green, but it was cheap. I flew out and drove it 2000 miles home and had the time of my life! The only thing that matters is what you value it at.

    6) Have your cash ready to buy, find one you like, pull the trigger, drive the s*** out of it.

    7) Maroon, Green, Black are the three worst colors on an 80. With maroon being the worst (barely edging out green). This is not an opinion, this is fact.
     
    Marine7, mingles and brockdeck like this.
  3. dace voit

    dace voit

    Messages:
    204
    Likes Received:
    9
    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2007
    Location:
    Winter Park, CO.
    This.

    You can find a '95-'97 in similar shape for similar money, or better, especially if you're willing to travel.

    Regardless, considering the weight of these trucks, I think the 1FZ-FE is the only way to go. The 2F in my 60 was fine, albeit weak. The 80 is heavier and the 3F-E is not much better the 2F, IMHO.

    $4k for a truck with 235k on the clock that needs a lot of work seems high to me.
     
  4. PFMFJ80

    PFMFJ80

    Messages:
    40
    Likes Received:
    30
    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2017
    Location:
    Burke, VA
    True, but he had mentioned he could help me with the bearings. I guess he meant if it was full asking price, which he never said. Otherwise I would have not mentioned it.

    I do not really care about power. I have a sports car right now that has enough power to get me into trouble, and just want to keep my current car in the garage as much as possible. Your comment about what ever fails on the 3FE is why I'm drawn to it. I would use the truck to go back and forth to the bus stop (4.5 miles round trip), the weekend trip to the Home Depot, and some fishing when times allow. I estimate around 2-3K miles a year, max.

    True. It is more about overpaying and my concern was more because I missed a really nice one for the same price. But looking around it seems 3,500 is not unreasonable for one that is not neglected. And I agree, if $20 a month would make a hole in my pocket, I should not be thinking about old cars.

    I appreciate your thoughts on this matter. Thanks!

    I should clarify, the only things in my "not so good list" that prevented the car from passing inspection were the bearings, a side marker, and 2 bulbs. The other things in my list are things that I believe that should be taken into account when considering the price and that will need to be performed to keep the truck running in good shape (e.g., PM). However, those seem not to be uncommon when buying one of these trucks. Thanks for commenting.
     
  5. ppc

    ppc M Go Blue

    Messages:
    1,856
    Likes Received:
    463
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2003
    Location:
    Nashville, TN
    First off your are relying on the sellers statement of what repairs are needed. You need someone that can give you an independent opinion on the required repairs. Vibrations at 65-70 MPH are generally not attributed to bad wheel bearings. Second, rust is like icebergs, you can only see 10% and the other 90% is not going to be visible. Third your calculation for the amount of money you are going to sink into repairs is way low. You need to search the forum and the FAQ sticky thread for "base lining". In order to have a reliable vehicle most forum members are of the opinion that you can expect to sink an additional $2,000 for neglected maintenance within the first year on vehicles similar to what you are thinking about purchasing. That figure is assuming you are providing the labor and much higher if you need to use a repair shop. There are other threads about total cost of ownership, in the FAQ there is a link for "thinking of buying" with a link to the Slee-off-Road Newbie Guide that is a must read.

    Personally, based upon your description of the vehicle I would only pay $1,500.
     
  6. LINUS

    LINUS Waiting for the Great Pumpkin

    Messages:
    3,685
    Media:
    10
    Albums:
    3
    Likes Received:
    1,629
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2003
    Location:
    PNW - WA
    FIFY :hillbilly:

    Black is a single stage /no metallic flake/clear & up here black sells like white sells in the S/SW. WA is where a crapton of new black Yotas sell.

    And you can colormatch like a champ, heck - you only need 1 bombcan in the top of the rollaway:grinpimp:

    I do agree though - all maroon 80's need to be the ones given bedliner paintjobs.


    Srsly, to OP - the reason I say 'all metallics' is because the clearcoat is 20-25yr old tech & isn't as UV stable as nowdays. Expect peeling clearcoat, easily remedied if you have intermediate paint skills.
     
  7. PFMFJ80

    PFMFJ80

    Messages:
    40
    Likes Received:
    30
    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2017
    Location:
    Burke, VA
    Thanks for your comment. I'm not relying on seller's comments. The car has had two inspections. My estimate on repairs are forr those needed to pass inspection, per the failed inspection report. I've read some of what you've referenced, but thanks because I have not read all of it and I should. Thanks!
     
  8. DR71

    DR71

    Messages:
    113
    Media:
    1
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    132
    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2017
    Location:
    Chattanooga, TN
    I paid $2500 for my '94, one-owner, triple locked with full records. It has 312K on the clock and runs like a champ. Here it is before I lifted it and added armor. My first LC which I still have is a 97 (stock) isn't locked has 100K less miles and I paid $5500 for it. I probably put $3k more in it to make it really nice. I probably over paid for the '97 but definitely scored on the '94. My point is take your time. Deals are out there, but you have to look every single day and be ready to pounce on the right deal.

    20171012_074103.jpg
     
  9. Sc0-

    Sc0-

    Messages:
    1,140
    Media:
    2
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2007
    Location:
    Houston
    I would have offered $1500-2k...

    Hold out and keep looking, '93+
     
  10. Heckraiser

    Heckraiser

    Messages:
    2,980
    Likes Received:
    1,855
    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2010
    Location:
    Colorado
    I'm a little surprised to see all the "overpriced" comments. I would think any good running 80 in need of a little work should be worth $3500.:meh:

    This is credible. After I rolled my first 3rd gen 4runner, I drove an FJ80 and hated it. Side by side, the 80 series feels like an anemic grandpa shuffling his way to the pharmacy to buy stool softener with tennis balls on his walker. Not just power, but overall feel/handling. Ended up getting another 4runner, and only after driving my TBI-swapped FJ62 for a while (down on power and very clunky) did the FZJ feel like a reasonable alternative. I wouldn't even be looking at 3fe, personally, unless maybe it had a manual transmission swap.
     
    mingles and scottryana like this.
  11. Proven

    Proven Designated Scotch Tester

    Messages:
    463
    Likes Received:
    80
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2006
    Location:
    Atlanta
    I paid around 6,000 for the 1996 White FZJ80 I have now. It isn't locked, but it was in above average to good condition with 150-180k on it at the time, can't remember. I flew to Texas to buy it after a mud member looked it over.

    As with any car, buy what you can afford and get what you need/want without settling on what could be a disaster created by previous owners negligence and deferred maintenance.
     
  12. Marine7

    Marine7

    Messages:
    877
    Media:
    10
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    561
    Joined:
    May 22, 2016
    Location:
    Wilmington NC
    Keep your eye on the Raleigh Craigslist..... they often have 80’s listed on there south of $3000.
    Don’t listen to the “haters” of the 3F..... I believe they are just pissed off, and lacking sleep because they spent all night in the garage fixing their HG’s, phh ‘s and other cooling issues, while us 3f owners got a great, full nights sleep. (They make the 95-up 80’s sound like rocket ships when the hp increase they have is marginal, at best!) My 3f has never had a problem running down the highway with ANY 80.
    But...... in my opinion, $3500 is about $1500 more than I would pay for that. From the pictures I see a vehicle rated as “fair” condition at best. Pass on it.... watch Raleigh C/L!!
     
    LS1FJ40 likes this.
  13. White Stripe

    White Stripe

    Messages:
    4,939
    Likes Received:
    3,056
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2012
    Their is nothing wrong with a 3fe as a motor itself. The problem is the 3fe in a 4500lb vehicle.
     
  14. White Stripe

    White Stripe

    Messages:
    4,939
    Likes Received:
    3,056
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2012
    The description of this 3fe cruiser for 4k leads me to believe it's worth in reality 1k. You can buy a pristine 3fe 80 for 4k. The seller needs to come back to earth. I have a relative selling a 95 with 200k that wants 3700. Paint is rough, interior is beat. Runs fine. But u should be able to get it shipped to Virginia for 1k. Seat covers and some diy bedliner over the bad paint and your set. I'm sure it needs maintenance work. Pm me if interested.
     
  15. lumbee1

    lumbee1 Native American

    Messages:
    1,877
    Media:
    3
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    1,644
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2011
    Location:
    Holly Springs, NC
    Offer him $3000 cash and walk away. Join a local Cruiser club. Introduce yourself and get them to help with the bearings. You might even get parts for cheap. You will learn a lot about the vehicle from working on it and from others that have already fixed or replaced those parts on their own trucks.
     
    Marine7 and iptman like this.
  16. iptman

    iptman

    Messages:
    2,791
    Likes Received:
    1,068
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2008
    Location:
    Northern VA
    You flew right by this one but it's probably the most important post here. There are several knowledgeable cruiser folk in this area who would inspect an 80 and, if you're willing to get your hands dirty, help you fix it up. We do regular tech days to help newbies like you get used to working on your own junk. We even have 3 members in Burke. In your wanted post in the CLCC sub forum you mentioned you didn't want anything fancy, just reliability. It might help the 80 forum collective to know what your intentions are for a truck you intend to buy. If all you're going to do it daily drive it on the road then you may get different answers than if you plan to modify and wheel it. Also, what kind of "inspection" was done twice on this truck? A VA safety inspection does NOT count as an "inspection" in our minds. You need a pre-purchase inspection done by someone who knows these trucks.
     
    Marine7 and LS1FJ40 like this.
  17. Marine7

    Marine7

    Messages:
    877
    Media:
    10
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    561
    Joined:
    May 22, 2016
    Location:
    Wilmington NC
    Iptman and Lumbee1 both make the most valid point..... get up with your local Cruiser or OffRoad club, and talk to them. Them guys always know the local 4x4’s for sale, what kind of cash they want for it, and if it has been thrashed or pampered on the trails. Plus, like BOTH of them said, they have wrenching sessions to help you learn how to turn a wrench. This is by far the best advice I’ve seen to you yet! Good luck!
     
  18. 2 E L O

    2 E L O SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,018
    Likes Received:
    263
    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2011
    Location:
    Western Nebraska
    I would venture to say that 95% (or more) of the people who say the 3FE trucks aren’t worth their time have zero experience with the 3FE. I’ve owned 80s with the 3FE and the 1FZ. The actual power difference is indeed noticeable; however, it is not significant unless you need to go 80mph on a regular basis.

    I looooooove the simplicity and reliability of the desmogged 3FE. Is Toyota support decreasing? That’s what I hear, but I haven’t experienced it. Is that uncommon with collector cars? No. Ford doesn’t still make very many parts for my ‘69 Mustang.... So, I take those factors with a grain of salt, as well.

    If you’re drawn to the 3FE, go for it! This truck does seem a little overpriced, but like @LS1FJ40 said, consider the lifecycle cost. What’s $500 over a few years? If you want it, buy it! With 80s, do not fret over hundreds of dollars... You’ll spend far more than that on baseline maintenance!
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2017
    Marine7, LS1FJ40 and iptman like this.
data-matched-content-rows-num="2,1" data-matched-content-columns-num="1,4" data-matched-content-ui-type="image_stacked" data-ad-format="autorelaxed">