TCEd
SILVER Star
In general are there any cons related to swapping in an aluminum tub ? Thanks, ed
Aluminum tubs (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TCEd
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
You have to run grounds to something else besides the aluminum. The floor doesn't have the corrugated on the floor it's just flat. The Trans cutout and hump they supply isn't very long and makes it tough to remove a transmission, although aqualu would likely modify that if u wanted.
Aluminum is very strong and thick.
Line drive from baseball didn't even dent it. Throwing heavy green firewood in, also doesn't dent.
Should use stainless hardware to reduce electrolysis.
But not for purists.
Line drive from baseball didn't even dent it. Throwing heavy green firewood in, also doesn't dent.
Should use stainless hardware to reduce electrolysis.
But not for purists.
I just ordered an entire new body from aqualu for my bj-42. I'm planning on reusing the doors, windshield frame and all of the original hinges and latches. Should I upgrade to stainless steel bolts? Is that what you're saying?
Stainless steel and aluminum will have galvanic corrosion. Stainless fasteners on large aluminum parts is not a big deal. But aluminum fasteners (like rivets) on stainless parts will corrode quickly.
I think, Stainless does well compared to regular steel or zinc hardware.
Anything to reduce contact area of the dissimilar metals helps reduce this.
Paint even helps. plastic washers under standard washers can be made quickly out of milk jugs. And I grease all bolts.
I did my Aqualu in 2005.
Has seen lots of rain, but stored under shed. Holding up well, even grounds of turn signals still work, but I coated them with silicone under washers.
Anything to reduce contact area of the dissimilar metals helps reduce this.
Paint even helps. plastic washers under standard washers can be made quickly out of milk jugs. And I grease all bolts.
I did my Aqualu in 2005.
Has seen lots of rain, but stored under shed. Holding up well, even grounds of turn signals still work, but I coated them with silicone under washers.
I like mine. Not for purists. Some small fitmnt issues that need to be worked out. I only used rear 3/4 tub. I would do it again given the same situation.
gwalt584
SILVER Star
I have done a 3/4 tub project and a full body on my current project. using seam sealer is the key to join the aluminum 3/4 tub to the front steel cowl. the seam sealer will prevent the electrolysis between the two different metals discussed earlier. use stainless steel bolts and aluminum washers if the washers will contact the aluminum body metal.
I have an all stock 1975 that I restored in 2010. it is all metal and original body. I was fortunate to not have a lot of rust. However, the metal used in the 40 bodies is subject to rust period. you will fight it as long as you own the truck.
It really depends on what you want the final product to look like and represent.
Gary
I have an all stock 1975 that I restored in 2010. it is all metal and original body. I was fortunate to not have a lot of rust. However, the metal used in the 40 bodies is subject to rust period. you will fight it as long as you own the truck.
It really depends on what you want the final product to look like and represent.
- An aluminum body is not factory but certainly will provide a product that looks great and lasts a long time if prepared properly.
- The steel original body makes a very nice collectible item that will have greater value. you can really say it is original.
Gary
Electrical shops have a special 'grease' used for connections between aluminum and other metals. If it'll work for high voltage & amperage connections, it'll work to allow you to connect 12v connections to the aluminum tub.
I used the aqualu windshield as the OEM didn't fit well. Did some grinding and smoothing of the Mig welds and it looks fine to me and probably a lot stronger.
Todd rolled his, in rocks, (also had a cage)and it didn't even break the windshield
Todd rolled his, in rocks, (also had a cage)and it didn't even break the windshield
I bought my current project 40 because it had an aluminum tub. As previously mentioned it is not for everyone due to some minor fitment issues with the hardtop, lack of ribbing on the floor/fender wells, trickier modification (welding/painting) of aluminum, etc. but all of that is nothing when I consider how much time the AL tub saved me in body work/rust repair. I might be on the road this fall vs. next year and I will never have to worry about tub rust (3/4 AL tub) . . . ever.
With the current price of repop steel 3/4 tubs when i decide to do mine ill be going with aluminum. Living in western canada i still enjoy to have my 42 out in the winter at times. If i went steel id have to park it for 5 months a year and that just aint no fun!
So the rule is: stainless bolts with plastic washers and rubber feet under the steel hinge pieces? Should I use teflon thread tape on the threads of the stainless bolts?
I was told by the owner of aqualu-Todd to use loctite.
Just use zinc plated fasteners if you're doing an aluminum tub. Read this. There's a nice chart a few pages in that summarizes the risk of corrosion between the fastener and base metal.
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article - Corrosion.pdf
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article - Corrosion.pdf
That's interesting. Based on that chart, plain old steel bolts would work best with the aluminum body. Zinc seems worse than stainless steel?
No, the chart says that if the base metal is Al, then zinc and galvanized steel fasteners will not corrode the base metal. Plain steel and the 300 series of stainless fasteners will marginally increase corrosion of the base metal. 400 series stainless will DEFINITELY corrode the base metal.
Oh yeah, heh. I was reading it wrong. Good point. Thanks for the chart.
Have you noticed any corrosion at all anywhere?
