Aluminum Radiators & Electrolysis

[Splangy]

Chicago, you could def modify your stock rad to a vortec needs....
My question now would be what is the best way to accomplish hi pH levels?
Besides changing fluids at shorter intervals..... Perhaps not a 50/50 mix but rather a 25/75 mix?
Obviously, this would depend on where yah live.....or modified as temps change during the year....

Anyone?

Good quality coolants are high pH out of the bottle. But that high pH can lower over the years as it becomes contaminated and reactions occur. The idea is to make sure that your coolant remains at the high pH it started out with.

 

[Gumby]

Electrolysis is a big deal. My second aluminum radiator is leaking and I need a new one again. They both have leaked in the upper corners. I think rust and sludge collect there. Regular flushing may help too.

I like the idea of a sacrificial anode, they get used in a variety of industries.

The primary reason for radiator corrosion due to electrolysis is poor grounds. I'd be checking your frame and chassis grounds.

 

[Gumby]

Good quality coolants are high pH out of the bottle. But that high pH can lower over the years as it becomes contaminated and reactions occur. The idea is to make sure that your coolant remains at the high pH it started out with.

pH of coolant depends on what type it is. Regular life EG is 9.5-10. As it gets old it does drop. >8.5 is no gouda. New OAT is 6.5-8.5. HOAT is 7.5-8.5.

 

[Moby]

I don't know if this is correct or not, but I bought a aluminium radiator from Man-a-fre some time ago (which is really a Ron Davis model), in the instructions as I recall they said to insulate the radaitor well at teh mount points to avoid vibration issues (rubber washers or material)...then as I recall it also said to make sure to have a ground from the radiator body to the truck frame? I don't recall reading any adivic on coolant type.

My radiator developed a small leak at the lower driver's side portion of the core where it joins the lower tank. I don't know the reason for that, I swapped in my spare 4 core brass type radiator since then. The man-a-free radiators are pretty $$, even more so than when I bought mine.

A great question I have is.... Who repairs aluminium radiators? For me, I'm looking for someone in the SouthEast..

My Ron Davis rad cracked at the upper corners. I did the electrolysis check and it was well below the limit. Ron Davis told me it was probably vibration and that I needed different mounts. Kind of a sucky answer when the product is a stock replacement. They won't get any more of my business (this was the last straw with this radiator, I had other issues with them as well).

Radiator repair is specialty work, especially aluminum. I had mine repaired by a shop that convinced me that they knew what they were doing (sandblasting, cleaning, industry specific epoxy with a long pressure test after the repair). Unfortunately it cracked again inside of a couple of months so I assume that the mounts were indeed the issue.

I'm also now running a 4 row brass/copper aftermarket rad.

 

[Elbert]

My Ron Davis rad cracked at the upper corners. I did the electrolysis check and it was well below the limit. Ron Davis told me it was probably vibration and that I needed different mounts. Kind of a sucky answer when the product is a stock replacement. They won't get any more of my business (this was the last straw with this radiator, I had other issues with them as well).

Radiator repair is specialty work, especially aluminum. I had mine repaired by a shop that convinced me that they knew what they were doing (sandblasting, cleaning, industry specific epoxy with a long pressure test after the repair). Unfortunately it cracked again inside of a couple of months so I assume that the mounts were indeed the issue.

I'm also now running a 4 row brass/copper aftermarket rad.

Where did the davis people say were these ever elusive different mounts? Hell I don't know how you say you have a custom radiator that is a direct replacement and then say it needs different mounts....maybe that should be known at day one. If I can find someone around the general area where I live to fix the davis radiator I have I'll see what it will do, but if not I don't plan on buying another one. I wonder if better off to have aluminium rad with side tanks (crossflow) rather than stock type..wonder if that has anything to do with rigidity. AA radiator is cross-flow. The radiators people are buying from summit and else where are cross flow. I would like to see where someone adatped the larger radiator where everying works, including a/c.

If I could adapt the be-cool radiator I bought for a 3/4 ton pickup my cooling issues would be over.

 

[Huroneymoose]

I am grateful for all of the information all of you 'Mudders have shared on this thread. Thankyou. I will be sure to utilize it to preserve my aluminum rad.

 

[new2bj42]

Hi all
I had the same problem with the family car ford sedan has cast iron block and heads,with alluminium radiator. original core when purchased car was shagged leaking out of top corner second core failed within 12 months leaking out of top corner warranty said it was my fault . So another new core is on its 2nd year with exemption of the earth strap fitted to core as it has plastic tanks. Now that reminds me must replace coolant before Murphy does something to it. Anode idea is good but i would keep an eye on it as you dont wont it to disapear as i dont know how long it will last and with Ph would a pool shop be able to help there
Good luck
Aaron

 

[Chop Shop]

I think a few people might be a little confused about the PH.

If the PH of the coolant is too LOW, then it needs to be changed/flushed and replaced with new coolant and the PH checked again.

If you have coolant with a PH thats not within spec, you cannot simply go to the pool supply or fish and pond store and get some "PH+ or PH-" to get it within spec.

 

[new2bj42]

Ha chop shop
The reason i asked about pool supplies is that
-distilled water should have a Ph of 7 = neutral
-rain water is around 6
-tap water can be from 6-8
Depending on were you live
My reason for that particular comment is that when you add water to coolant you dilute the coolant there for you will be replacing your coolant sooner. By lifting the Ph of the water you shouldn't lose your Ph of the coolant.
Please correct me if im wrong
Aaron

 

[Splangy]

I think a few people might be a little confused about the PH.

If the PH of the coolant is too LOW, then it needs to be changed/flushed and replaced with new coolant and the PH checked again.

If you have coolant with a PH thats not within spec, you cannot simply go to the pool supply or fish and pond store and get some "PH+ or PH-" to get it within spec.

Isn't that what I said?

Ha chop shop
The reason i asked about pool supplies is that
-distilled water should have a Ph of 7 = neutral
-rain water is around 6
-tap water can be from 6-8
Depending on were you live
My reason for that particular comment is that when you add water to coolant you dilute the coolant there for you will be replacing your coolant sooner. By lifting the Ph of the water you shouldn't lose your Ph of the coolant.
Please correct me if im wrong
Aaron

Don't try to adjust the pH. If the pH is too low, just replace the coolant, and only use distilled water to mix. Distilled water is used because of it's purity, not it's pH level.

 

[Chop Shop]

Isn't that what I said?

Pretty much. I have found you have to repeat things here several times before folks believe it/learn it.