Aluminum Oil Filter Cap - durability (1 Viewer)

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I have it. That is what sheered all the tabs off. It will not grip it now.
My next move would be to carefully start destroying it in a way that doesn’t damage the housing or the inner support tube.

A hole drilled on one of the flats would provide a solid place to get it moving with a rectangular flat end punch and hammer. If that didn’t work I’d start dismantling it with a cold chisel.

Obviously all of this assumes you have the new part on hand to replace it.
 
Why won't a strap wrench work?
 
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Why won't a strap wrench work?
If the correct tool broke the tabs off I’m assuming the strap wrench won’t be capable of the torque value required to get it loose.

A chain wrench could probably get it done, but you’d need to find one large enough.
 
I tried the strap wrench and couldn't move it. I need more leverage than it can provide. I tried drilling it too, still couldn't get it to move.

Todays plan. I JB welded the drain bolt to the filter cap yesterday. After church I will see if that holds long enough to break it loose.

Next plan is to drill some screws into the slots for the filter removal tool.

After that, I am going to destroy it.

The guy who designed this and the last guy to do the oil change need their asses kicked. The truck is new to me. I needed a breaker bar to break the oil pan drain as well.
 
I tried the strap wrench and couldn't move it. I need more leverage than it can provide. I tried drilling it too, still couldn't get it to move.

Todays plan. I JB welded the drain bolt to the filter cap yesterday. After church I will see if that holds long enough to break it loose.

Next plan is to drill some screws into the slots for the filter removal tool.

After that, I am going to destroy it.

The guy who designed this and the last guy to do the oil change need their asses kicked. The truck is new to me. I needed a breaker bar to break the oil pan drain as well.
Sounds like someone switched the impact guns from wheels to filters/drains. Just kidding of course (?)
 
If you're willing to sacrifice your filter wrench, maybe you could jb weld that to the cap. More surface area...
 
The guy who designed this and the last guy to do the oil change need their asses kicked. The truck is new to me. I needed a breaker bar to break the oil pan drain as well.
100% the last guy to do work on it, 0% the designers.

Keep in mind how uncommon it would be to only put 18ft-lb force on a 4” diameter bolt (the filter cap.) Or the plastic-lined oil drain crush washer compressing forever causing the bolt to tighten much more slowly than usual. In both cases if a torque wrench is used, the problem doesn’t exist, even if the cap is plastic.

The front diff drain plug with a tiny 10mm internal hex and a huge copper gasket that bonds the plug to the case even with the published torque value.. 100% design.

If the world had more mechanics that gave a s*** these trucks wouldn’t have the “oil changes are horrible” reputation that they do.
 
JB Weld worked. Praise God! Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

A cartridge filter from the bottom of the engine is not a maintenance friendly design. Mercedes Benz has used cartridge filters for at least 40 years and all the cars that i am aware of are accessed from the top where you don't have to drain the filter first. In my opinion, this is a poor design. Just my opinion.

Everything is torqued to spec and not leaking. The filter cap is seriously rotated 1/3 of a turn less than what the previous person had done.
 
The filter cap is seriously rotated 1/3 of a turn less than what the previous person had done.

Yikes. Glad you got it sorted though!
 
Bringing back an older thread, but for those interested there is an aftermarket aluminum cap available that does not require the inner support tube swap:


I'm sure we all prefer 100% OEM where possible but throwing it out there as another quick fix for people having trouble with the stock plastic housing.
 
Bringing back an older thread, but for those interested there is an aftermarket aluminum cap available that does not require the inner support tube swap:


I'm sure we all prefer 100% OEM where possible but throwing it out there as another quick fix for people having trouble with the stock plastic housing.

Retracting this. I thought this was a nice easy fix (even if temporary), but it looks like I already have a slow drip developing after the install.

Avoid the Dorman. Stick with the OEM plastic or the Venza aluminum assembly with the support tube swap.
 
Retracting this. I thought this was a nice easy fix (even if temporary), but it looks like I already have a slow drip developing after the install.

Avoid the Dorman. Stick with the OEM plastic or the Venza aluminum assembly with the support tube swap.

Retracting this. I thought this was a nice easy fix (even if temporary), but it looks like I already have a slow drip developing after the install.

Avoid the Dorman. Stick with the OEM plastic or the Venza aluminum assembly with the support tube swap.

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