Aluminum Oil Filter Cap - durability

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Tecnos said:
I have it. That is what sheered all the tabs off. It will not grip it now.
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My next move would be to carefully start destroying it in a way that doesn’t damage the housing or the inner support tube.

A hole drilled on one of the flats would provide a solid place to get it moving with a rectangular flat end punch and hammer. If that didn’t work I’d start dismantling it with a cold chisel.

Obviously all of this assumes you have the new part on hand to replace it.
 
CharlieS said:
Why won't a strap wrench work?
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If the correct tool broke the tabs off I’m assuming the strap wrench won’t be capable of the torque value required to get it loose.

A chain wrench could probably get it done, but you’d need to find one large enough.
 
I tried the strap wrench and couldn't move it. I need more leverage than it can provide. I tried drilling it too, still couldn't get it to move.

Todays plan. I JB welded the drain bolt to the filter cap yesterday. After church I will see if that holds long enough to break it loose.

Next plan is to drill some screws into the slots for the filter removal tool.

After that, I am going to destroy it.

The guy who designed this and the last guy to do the oil change need their asses kicked. The truck is new to me. I needed a breaker bar to break the oil pan drain as well.
 
Tecnos said:
I tried the strap wrench and couldn't move it. I need more leverage than it can provide. I tried drilling it too, still couldn't get it to move.

Todays plan. I JB welded the drain bolt to the filter cap yesterday. After church I will see if that holds long enough to break it loose.

Next plan is to drill some screws into the slots for the filter removal tool.

After that, I am going to destroy it.

The guy who designed this and the last guy to do the oil change need their asses kicked. The truck is new to me. I needed a breaker bar to break the oil pan drain as well.
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Sounds like someone switched the impact guns from wheels to filters/drains. Just kidding of course (?)
 
Tecnos said:
The guy who designed this and the last guy to do the oil change need their asses kicked. The truck is new to me. I needed a breaker bar to break the oil pan drain as well.
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100% the last guy to do work on it, 0% the designers.

Keep in mind how uncommon it would be to only put 18ft-lb force on a 4” diameter bolt (the filter cap.) Or the plastic-lined oil drain crush washer compressing forever causing the bolt to tighten much more slowly than usual. In both cases if a torque wrench is used, the problem doesn’t exist, even if the cap is plastic.

The front diff drain plug with a tiny 10mm internal hex and a huge copper gasket that bonds the plug to the case even with the published torque value.. 100% design.

If the world had more mechanics that gave a s*** these trucks wouldn’t have the “oil changes are horrible” reputation that they do.
 
JB Weld worked. Praise God! Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

A cartridge filter from the bottom of the engine is not a maintenance friendly design. Mercedes Benz has used cartridge filters for at least 40 years and all the cars that i am aware of are accessed from the top where you don't have to drain the filter first. In my opinion, this is a poor design. Just my opinion.

Everything is torqued to spec and not leaking. The filter cap is seriously rotated 1/3 of a turn less than what the previous person had done.
 
Tecnos said:
The filter cap is seriously rotated 1/3 of a turn less than what the previous person had done.
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Yikes. Glad you got it sorted though!
 
Mingus Dew said:
Bringing back an older thread, but for those interested there is an aftermarket aluminum cap available that does not require the inner support tube swap:


I'm sure we all prefer 100% OEM where possible but throwing it out there as another quick fix for people having trouble with the stock plastic housing.
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Retracting this. I thought this was a nice easy fix (even if temporary), but it looks like I already have a slow drip developing after the install.

Avoid the Dorman. Stick with the OEM plastic or the Venza aluminum assembly with the support tube swap.
 
Mingus Dew said:
Retracting this. I thought this was a nice easy fix (even if temporary), but it looks like I already have a slow drip developing after the install.

Avoid the Dorman. Stick with the OEM plastic or the Venza aluminum assembly with the support tube swap.
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Mingus Dew said:
Retracting this. I thought this was a nice easy fix (even if temporary), but it looks like I already have a slow drip developing after the install.

Avoid the Dorman. Stick with the OEM plastic or the Venza aluminum assembly with the support tube swap.
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bjowett said:
As some DIYers here may have found out, the plastic cap on the oil filter housing leaves something to be desired. While trying to remove the cap, the wrench can slip or frequently becomes stuck , and after enough oil R&R sessions, it can eventually round the cap off. I also expect that after a few more years and many more heat cycles, we'll be seeing plenty of warped or cracked pieces, too. When this happens, one can go to the dealer and buy another at a retail price of over $60. Or for about half that price, one can pick up the aluminum version from a Venza 3.5 V6.

Only one modification is required to fit the Venza piece up, and that is swapping of the Tundra (Land Cruiser is the same) internal perforated oil filter support tube into the Venza Cap. To peform this swap is easy. To remove the tube, the two small retaining tabs need to be bent up to near vertical. Then push down on the tube, turn it about 45 degrees, and it will push up and out. It has some spring tension on it. A spring and the drain valve disc are located under it. Be careful not to lose them. Remove the Tundra tube in the same manner, install it in the Venza Cap and bend the tabs back flat.

Here are the caps and internal parts...

oilfilerhousings.jpg


This picture shows how to use a flat blade screwdriver to bend the tabs up. The metal is thin, just a gentle twist on the screwdriver handle will bend the tab to where it is in the picture.

oilfilterhousingtab.jpg


I have a few of these in stock and can match dealer retail on the price. Or if you want to keep your business local, or find yourself in a jam and need one quickly, the part number is 15620-31060.

We are working on few ore trick with this part, so stay tuned.

My little message to Toyota... I've buying and beating on your trucks since the 80's... They are purchased for their extreme durability, smart designs, and easy servicabilty. I don't buy them for built to fail plastic oil filter caps that cost twice as much as the lifetime alloy part that comes on some of your other vehicles. Pull your head out of your nether region and realize how you got to where you are.
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Breathing some life into this old thread since my aluminum filter housing is currently on its way to confirm whether 2 or 3 pieces need to be swapped over. I know the stand pipe and spring must be swapped over, but does the metal disc that sits underneath the spring (shown in the picture above) also need to be swapped over?

Thanks to all in advance.
 
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