Aluminum Oil Filter Cap - durability (1 Viewer)

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2011767
 
No Austin dealers had the venza cap in stock today, so I went ahead with the oil change anyway. One broken tab later, I vow to order the venza cap to have on hand for the next oil change. Couple questions:

Torque settings? Venza cap and the filter drain cap.

This ones for Brian... on page one of this post, you show how to replace the tube and mention about watching out for the spring and disc. So we have a nice venza cap from Toyota, and nice drain valves from Fumoto. Would it be possible to leave off the compression valve pieces and fit an adapter to couple the venza filter cap to the Fumoto valve? Maybe even drilling and tapping the stock filter drain cap? Or adapter could just compress the stock filter drain valve spring. What do you think? I dont have the machining facilities to try it myself.
 
No Austin dealers had the venza cap in stock today, so I went ahead with the oil change anyway. One broken tab later, I vow to order the venza cap to have on hand for the next oil change. Couple questions:

Torque settings? Venza cap and the filter drain cap.

This ones for Brian... on page one of this post, you show how to replace the tube and mention about watching out for the spring and disc. So we have a nice venza cap from Toyota, and nice drain valves from Fumoto. Would it be possible to leave off the compression valve pieces and fit an adapter to couple the venza filter cap to the Fumoto valve? Maybe even drilling and tapping the stock filter drain cap? Or adapter could just compress the stock filter drain valve spring. What do you think? I dont have the machining facilities to try it myself.

Oil filter cap is 18ft-lb, the small drain cap is 108in-lb.

If you use the plastic drain tool that comes with a new filter correctly a fumoto valve is pointless. The key is putting the drain plug oring onto the tool before snapping the tool into the drain, and pushing it in firmly/quickly. Not using the oring or leaving it in the groove and snapping the tool in after will cause it to leak everywhere.

I see no reason to go modifying the housing and adding potential points of failure.

But that’s just my opinion.
 
I have used that drain tool many times. To be fair, I’ve never used it with the oring. But the leakage happens initially so not sure the Oring would change it much.

I used the motiv drain tool today. Better but a ball valve would still be simple and clean
 
The stock valve/disc can be removed, the spring needs to stay. The stock cap needs to have a flat surface machined in order to accept the valve gasket. The next issue is a deep socket that can reach over the valve to the flutes. There is a guy on TacomaWorld that produces just such a wrench.

There's part of me that agrees with Bloc, and that is why the pieces used here are severely overbuilt. It required years of folks looking for an alternative before I finally decided to jump on it. The original idea was simply to create a durable cap that would not break if overtorqued. The valve is an option, one which 99% of folks check off when they buy.

With that said, I will soon be adding stock OEM alloy caps with the proper length tube filter support tube. Just swap it in and continue as Toyota designed.
 
I have used that drain tool many times. To be fair, I’ve never used it with the oring. But the leakage happens initially so not sure the Oring would change it much.

When is the initial leakage happening? Upon removing the drain cap?

If it’s while pushing the drain in I haven’t been getting any leakage.. but I do shove the thing in about as hard as I can with both thumbs.
 
When I remove the cap it’s clean. It’s when I try to insert the white nozzle tool when it gets messy. Like a Gallagher concert. I’ve tried the bottle trick, attaching a hose. Still messy compared to what I can do with a metal can filter and a zip lock baggie. I’m doing this on my back in the garage on ramps so maybe I just can’t generate enough pop. But pro mechanics I’ve talked to agree it’s a messy setup. Plus cleanup. A couple ball valves and a little hose and it becomes fast and clean. Might not be essential but I’d like to get there.
 
Heads up. First oil change in my new to me 2014. The dealer severely over tightened the bottom plug on the OEM filter housing. There was no way it was coming off without the filter housing. When I loosened the filter housing I just hand twisted it until oil started to leak out...right into my catch pan. 15 minutes later I just hand turned it until it came loose and dumped the remaining oil and filter element into the pan. The filter housing easily cleaned up with a rag.

I do not see any reason to remove the bottom plug. FWIW I do not see a reason NOT to repeat this procedure next time. Instead of using the 3/8” extension, I’ll just use the filter housing tool attached to a ratchet.
 
Heads up. First oil change in my new to me 2014. The dealer severely over tightened the bottom plug on the OEM filter housing. There was no way it was coming off without the filter housing. When I loosened the filter housing I just hand twisted it until oil started to leak out...right into my catch pan. 15 minutes later I just hand turned it until it came loose and dumped the remaining oil and filter element into the pan. The filter housing easily cleaned up with a rag.

I do not see any reason to remove the bottom plug. FWIW I do not see a reason NOT to repeat this procedure next time. Instead of using the 3/8” extension, I’ll just use the filter housing tool attached to a ratchet.
I never do that
 
Heads up. First oil change in my new to me 2014. The dealer severely over tightened the bottom plug on the OEM filter housing. There was no way it was coming off without the filter housing. When I loosened the filter housing I just hand twisted it until oil started to leak out...right into my catch pan. 15 minutes later I just hand turned it until it came loose and dumped the remaining oil and filter element into the pan. The filter housing easily cleaned up with a rag.

I do not see any reason to remove the bottom plug. FWIW I do not see a reason NOT to repeat this procedure next time. Instead of using the 3/8” extension, I’ll just use the filter housing tool attached to a ratchet.

There is an o-ring in there that will eventually need replacement.
 
There is an o-ring in there that will eventually need replacement.

Realistically as long as the plug doesn’t get moved over and over that oring would likely outlast the truck.

That said, having the majority of the oil drained out of the cap before removing the whole thing is pretty convenient. And torquing everything to spec I’ve never had either the plug or cap be a problem to remove.
 
any tricks on removing a damages plastic cover? It was on do tight that all of the tabs broke when i was trying to remove it. Sucks.

Thanks for any idea.
 
They make a filter wrench specifically suited to the toyota cap. It should work even with snapped off "ears". A strap wrench, or piece of old fan belt with some vice grips might work too.
 
They make a filter wrench specifically suited to the toyota cap. It should work even with snapped off "ears". A strap wrench, or piece of old fan belt with some vice grips might work too.
I have it. That is what sheered all the tabs off. It will not grip it now.
 

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