I have one in my GX, son's 4R, and other son's 100. They work
Alternator Upgrade Options for the GX470 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter txgringo
- Start date
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I'm wondering if the reason @ArBrnSnpr needed the pigtail to get to 14v was because of the Voltage limitations in the factory system. and if I'd need the pigtail with the Voltage booster? @Vlad are you running stock wiring?
I might just bite the bullet and go with the Nationstarteralternator 270 or 370. I don't mind upgrading the wiring if needed, but sounds like Phoenix alternator is a mess to deal with.
I might just bite the bullet and go with the Nationstarteralternator 270 or 370. I don't mind upgrading the wiring if needed, but sounds like Phoenix alternator is a mess to deal with.
Got busy with work and the holidays and forgot to post an update. I called Tucson Alternator Exchange (same company) after my alternator arrived and they told me it wouldn't have charging problems without the pigtail and that the pulley is smaller but the tensioner should take up the extra slack without any problems. Seems like I got the same version of the alternator as @Salsita, which is different from the ones with the pigtail.
I had the alternator installed a couple of weeks ago when I was having my TB/WP replaced. I decided to go with a smaller belt since I was also replacing the drive belt. So far the voltage has been running 13.8 - 14.1.
I have the big three and the 270 alt with the adjustable booster that lives at 14.7-15.1
did you do our own wiring? or did you purchase a pre-made kit from somewhere?
I did the offgrid engineering kit for the dual battery, the alternator came with some of it, I did the rest, added the SPOD and compressor, etc
If you have the pigtail on the Phoenix 240A, you do NOT need the upgraded solid state fuse. If you use both your voltage will be too high. The pigtail is necessary to overcome the low factory voltage. You either need the pigtail or the fuse but not both.
How is this working out for you?
What would High Output Alternator do for me if I don't replace the standard battery? (eventually adding, OBA, fridge, lights, radio..)
How bout if I replace the alternator and put in a deep cell battery? Any pros cons? to doing this, vs. say dual battery?
I'm getting under the hood soon for timing belt work and figure I might as well replace altnertor while I'm in there... but wnat to be careful that I bite off more than I can chew by diving into a huge electrical job here..
Thanks!
Franken470
SILVER Star
I'm loving the Power bastard unit so far and have been running nearly a year with a voltage booster and dual battery setup. It charges quickly and I normally hear my Blue Sea Switch connect within 60 sec of crank to top off both batteries. I think many also skip over the fact that a "big 3" to be done completely, you have to upgrade the gauge of your hots and grounds to the batteries and alternator, allowing the most current to flow without reduction due to size cable.
Franken470
SILVER Star
With the accessories stated the high amp alternator will help keep you running while using, lights, fridge winch etc. those in any singular fashion wouldn’t kill your system but if you needed all of them at one time that’s a significant drain hence the high amp being needed especially on a single battery.
My fridge is run off a second battery which also means I can have it set to run longer while the vehicle is turned off and not risk cranking the vehicle, in MS with 100 plus temps this summer the fridge worked all summer with regular daily driving and maintained temps really well. Not sure it would have done as much on a single battery with the safety engaged to keep primary battery.
Here's my current thinking:
(starting from stock electrical)
Stage 1)
-add solar. Something that can be portable and plug in or something that will permanently stay on top.
-Add deep cell 2nd battery
-add isolator
Stage 2)
Add intelligent charging system
Add inverter
Rear mounted Aux USB and 12-volt power ports;
Space is tight under the hood but I think there's a spot for the 2nd battery on the passenger side near the back.
Not sure I'm going to go the high output alternator route. just not convinced that that is necessary (yet).
(starting from stock electrical)
Stage 1)
-add solar. Something that can be portable and plug in or something that will permanently stay on top.
-Add deep cell 2nd battery
-add isolator
Stage 2)
Add intelligent charging system
Add inverter
Rear mounted Aux USB and 12-volt power ports;
Space is tight under the hood but I think there's a spot for the 2nd battery on the passenger side near the back.
Not sure I'm going to go the high output alternator route. just not convinced that that is necessary (yet).
I’ve been intrigued by solar panels and a portable power station. This technology is getting better and better. Use this to power the fridge, camping lights, charge devices. Power station has usb and 12v power ports.
Carry a small jump starter pack to jump start battery.
Next level would be to integrate the alternator to charge the power station while on the road at night. When sun is available, use the solar panels to charge the power station.
Upgrade alternator to 150amp 1st gen sequoia one. Not big jump but a little bump. It’s a simple replacement.
I think that if I have dual battery, I can use the secondary to jump charge the starter if for some reason that one goes out. And, with solar going during sunny days (we live in AZ) that should pretty well keep the deep cell topped off. Granted, we won't be boondocking for 2 weeks, these are just going to be long weekend trips for the most part.
So, if that is the setup, I'm not sure why a H.O.A. is needed.
The only occasional extra electrical load will be compressor (car will be on), and fridge (once it's at set temp, it doesn't pull a lot of juice just to maintain temp, right?).
We might add lights eventually, but I even then I don't see how these kinds of occasional load will make a HOA necessary. Maybe I'm wrong?
r2m
Richard
Usually the idea of a smaller pulley is to keep the alternator running at a higher rpm, thus charging the battery/s at a lower engine rpm.
Ok, so to be clear, when you say the solid state fuse, you mean the voltage booster? Because I just ordered the voltage booster, and I was about to pull the trigger on the Phoenix 240 alternator when I saw your comment. Want to make sure I understand.
I am concerned I've had many alternators shorting out due to water crossings. Everyone who owns the GX knows the alternator is mounted on the bottom of the engine. Water and mud that gets between the coil and brushes will short out an alternator. If your dash lights start flashing most likely the alternator is on its way out. Wish I could make a topside mount to extend the power cord to prevent the alternate from going under water in deep water crossing areas.
r2m
Richard
Wonder if it's the same for the Prado six's and diesel 4's?
I had to do a little fording this past weekend, albeit, only about 1.5 feet. But still I was very slow going through for a couple of reasons:
- As you mentioned above, I don't need water in my electrical,
- I HATE doing the "full speed ahead" into and through water crossings because of ALL the mud that gets splashed under one's rig. It takes forever to get that mud off. Let all the guys that blast through those mud puddles that don't know anything about real off roading figure it out after the mud cakes on to their under carriage.
Drove mine through around 32" of water last weekend multiple times (I know because it was over the top of my tires 
). Presuming my alternator was underwater at that point, although I have not measured the position of my alternator relative to the top of my tires. Luckily our creeks around here are crystal-clear, so I'm doubting much/any mud of debris went in the alternator. My GX has a Delco sticker on the alternator, so the PO must have already killed and replaced it.
I would imagine the alternator is at least somewhat resistant to water (Denso sealed bearings) but killed by mud. Sealed alternators for a 100 series do appear to be available in AU, but are water-cooled and $2K+ AUD. I'm just going to try to stay out of deep mud, but proactively replace my alternator next time I work on the front of the engine. I would replace it with a sealed alternator if one was available for $500 or less.....$2K+ is just too much.
). Presuming my alternator was underwater at that point, although I have not measured the position of my alternator relative to the top of my tires. Luckily our creeks around here are crystal-clear, so I'm doubting much/any mud of debris went in the alternator. My GX has a Delco sticker on the alternator, so the PO must have already killed and replaced it.I would imagine the alternator is at least somewhat resistant to water (Denso sealed bearings) but killed by mud. Sealed alternators for a 100 series do appear to be available in AU, but are water-cooled and $2K+ AUD. I'm just going to try to stay out of deep mud, but proactively replace my alternator next time I work on the front of the engine. I would replace it with a sealed alternator if one was available for $500 or less.....$2K+ is just too much.
Franken470
SILVER Star
Just did plenty of crossing last week with my power bastards unit. Still running string.
