Alternator replacement ‘99 LX 470

[kravman4]

Anyone have experience replacing the alternator or have a good walk through video they’d recommend?

If you’ve done it yourself how difficult a task is it?

 

[oakback]

I recently did it on my '99 LC in a parking lot in the dark, took maybe 2 hours. There are a few walkthroughs on here, but it's pretty straight forward. Look at post #2 here.

I didn't disconnect any power steering or coolant hoses. I did have to squish the lower radiator hose to the side a bit, no problems.

 

[SteveH]

Took me 30 min. to disconnect the $%^&* 3-wire pigtail from the alternator. Straightforward after that. I took it out from below, sneaking it past the (empty) radiator hose.

 

[Bisho]

It’s nice on the early models because you can remove the power steering pulley and don’t have to undo the pump.

 

[nissanh]

What ever you do, make sure to disconnect the battery ground wire first. Have an extra wire clip for the alternator incase your clip disintegrates during the removal.

 

[kravman4]

Awesome, thank you for all the input! Hopefully will get it done this weekend… are any of you running alternators with increased amperage for accessories? I’m not running anything now but may add lights and a winch later on…

 

[nissanh]

For the first time in any of my toyota's, my 4runner alternator bearings are making a noise at 220K miles. I am planning to order those from partsouq.com. I might as well keep a set of bearings for my LC 2000 handy. If you are comfortable in replacing those, I'd recommend to get those two done as well.

My 2000 LC requires 90099 10192 and 90099 10194 bearings. If you are ordering, please check the correct part numbers. These bearing s are not available on ebay/amazon or an auto parts store.

 

[darrenk]

I replaced the stock unit with the optional equipment 100 Amp unit, same fit.
A lot of posts say that you can drop the alternator directly out the bottom without removing anything, but on mine (98 LX) there was no way to get past one of the cooling hard lines. After 45 minutes trying to tetris it out, I gave up and pulled the lower rad hose - less than a minute to get it out after that.

 

[plainjanefjc]

It’ll come out without removing any lower lines- it doesn’t seem like it will but it does

 

[2001LC]

I'm doing one today, in a 99. I:

• Disconnect battery negative post clamp.
• Remove air pipe & front skid.
• Drain rad. If reusing coolant, to clean catch cans.
• Remove lower rad hose. (Makes easier, to get to vane bolts, serp belt and alternator out/in.)
• Remove serp belt
• Unclip bracket, holding wire housing of alternator wires, from inner fender well area. Access, from above in engine compartment. This gives, extra slack in wires, useful later.
• Loosen the 3 vane pumps 14mm bolts (torque spec 13ft-lbf), tie up vane out of way. Bungee cord works well.
• Remove alternator secure bolt & nuts. 14mm bolts & nut 29ft-lbf, 12mm nut 12ft-lbf (98-02 two fasteners, 03-07 three)

Pull alternator forward to access its, wire hanging bracket & wires:

• Pop off safety cap, that covers over hot wire lug. Its locking tabs, very often break. Replace with new cap, if needed. The cap covers the 12 volt hot wire lug, as a fire safety. In the event it became grounded.
• Remove 10mm nut from stud holding hot wire lug/lead, to alternator. Note: this wire lug/lead, has two locking blades/keys. These blades/keys, fit in key holes, in alternator.
• Remove bolt holding wire housing securing bracket that is attached to alternator. Alternatively, unclip wire housing(s) hung/attached on the bracket. You will need this bracket, move to the remanufactures (new) alternator.
• Pinch the wire housing block plugs, locking release tab. That is plugged into alternator. Pull plug out of alternator socket. Tip: To see release clip. Push boot cover up away from wire housing plug.
• Remove alternator from either underside or top side. Top side, you may run into lower radiator hose retainer horseshoe-clip, attached to fan shroud. Try not to bust it. The vane pump, may also need repositioning. Alternative and most done: Removing alternator out the bottom, just work it out. With a few turns and a bit pressure and maneuvering around, AT cooler lines & hoses and PS lines & hoses.
• You can now go back and retrieve wire harness bracket, that bolt held on alternator. Do so without damaging the wire housing retaining clips, that are use to hang wire housing on bracket. Then attach bracket, to new alternator. Or just leave bracket where it was in engine bay, with wire harness attached. Then attach bracket with bolt in reverse order, as you attach wires to alternator.

Install in reverse order. Make sure to add coolant back and burp air from radiator, if lower rad hose removed.

Notes:

It is best to clean up hot wire lug/lead. Green scratch pad works well.

Clean the wire housing block, that plugs into alternator. Inspect it's inner rubber seal and condition of the leads. I use plastic safe electric contact cleaner and compressed air. I pack plug, with dielectric grease during assemble. Which aids in sealing out moisture.

Very Very important: Remember: The hot wire lug/lead, has two blades/keys. They must be fitted into alternator blad/key holes. Then the secure lug with 10mm nut, torque to 7ft-lbf on lug.

Check, to make sure, the wire housing plug, is locked into alternator. By tugging on plug, after to hear the click of plug locking in. Fit boot back over the plug.

Burp air from coolant system: After warming engine and running at 3K RPM a few minutes. Cool down for 8 hours (5hr cold winters nights), with vehicle parked level or better yet, front end higher than rear of vehicle. Look under radiator cap in the AM before sun heats the air. Top rad and reservoir. Repeat if any coolant was needed, and keep repeating until found full.