Alternator rebuild (1 Viewer)

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I have an 1984 FJ60, pretty much stock electronically speaking. My alternator went out and it appears to be an OEM rebuild (see attached). It spins fine and doesn't make any noise, it just quit putting out voltage.

Can anyone recommend a shop to take it to local to the greater Seattle area, preferable south end? I know there are vendors referenced on this website that may be willing to do it, I would just prefer take this one somewhere and get it fixed without shipping and all that hassle.

Thanks!
FJ60 alternator 1.jpg
 
you may find better responses if you look in the banner above, click on "Clubhouse" and navigate to the Seattle/WA area forums.
 
If you don't get any local recommendations, I would just look on Yelp and find someplace with five stars. It's not a complicated alternator, and they'll let you know (or should) what has failed, and if it's worth the cost of a rebuild vs replacement. If I were paying for a rebuild, I'd want new bearings etc, while it's apart.
 
Not Seattle, but ...

D and D Auto Electric in Wheat Ridge, Colorado (Denver suburb) is great. The guy knows old Toyota stuff.

Likely this is a simple voltage regulator replacement job. Five screws and about five minutes.
 
Wow, thanks for the responses. This forum is a tremendous resource, and is greatly appreciated.
 
Did you check the fusible link? If that is ok you just might need new brushes. My original alternator out of my 93 truck quit at 290k and it just needed brush kit.
 
I just checked the fusible link, It's good. I ordered a voltage regulator from ToyotaPartsDeal for $35 plus tax and shipping. If that doesn't work I'll continue to investigate finding someone to rebuild it vs purchasing a rebuilt OEM unit. After reading the threads on replacing the brushes, I'm not sure that's something I be anxious to pursue myself. Thanks again!
 





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I just checked the fusible link, It's good. I ordered a voltage regulator from ToyotaPartsDeal for $35 plus tax and shipping. If that doesn't work I'll continue to investigate finding someone to rebuild it vs purchasing a rebuilt OEM unit. After reading the threads on replacing the brushes, I'm not sure that's something I be anxious to pursue myself. Thanks again!


The OEM regulator will NOT come with the 3 tiny S L F p1 vessel screws

Use caution NOT to strip them out

Polish the wall and the 3 vertical Fins also there brass and a bit delicate

The TAN 2F FSM has very very detailed testing procedures for the 2 wire green plug set up like you have


Lastly …

The green plug itself and the B+ ring terminal , polish and use di electric grease …
 
Thanks again. The three tiny screws were a little crusty but I managed to get them out without messing up the recesses too badly. What do you mean by "the wall". Is that that little plate that mounts on the back side of the alternator and covers the three screws, shown in the attached photo? That plate has got some sealant type material incorporated into it that has significantly deteriorated. Should I make any attempt to restore it with an adhesive or sealant?

I have a paper copy of the Tan 2F Engine Repair Manual. I'll check it out.
FJ60 voltage regulator 1.jpg
FJ60 alternator 2.jpg
 
Thanks again. The three tiny screws were a little crusty but I managed to get them out without messing up the recesses too badly. What do you mean by "the wall". Is that that little plate that mounts on the back side of the alternator and covers the three screws, shown in the attached photo? That plate has got some sealant type material incorporated into it that has significantly deteriorated. Should I make any attempt to restore it with an adhesive or sealant?

I have a paper copy of the Tan 2F Engine Repair Manual. I'll check it out.View attachment 3725613View attachment 3725614




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3 wire alternator basic wiring diagram.JPG



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That is some nice alternator bling man. When I replaced mine back in 2007 I didn't know that the regulator was separate and I had to swap it to the new one, the thing is still working today.


they NEVER came with a NEW OEM Toyota Regulator from the factory as a stand alone service part .........ALTERNATOR part speaking


even the original 3/36 warranty bumper to bumper was regulator-less .................


there are DIFFERENT piggy back regulators is the WHY factor here .......



the piggy back is the first gen. NON-REMOTE mounted type as in fire wall and fenders


ALL toyotas came with this cross in evolution at least 1 modle year , from EXTERNAL fans to the internal regulator internal fans ones you see today ....


1990 is the last EXTERNAL fan toyota alternator modle year globally ...............various models including LAND CRUISER included .....


note : i always have included 3 new OEM Genuine NipponDENSO Japan regulator micro screws with any piggy backs i ever have offered and the new updated P2 VESSLE JIS hex combo screws for bolting it on , my choice my way .....:)



NOS OEM Piggy back 27700- 's examples below :



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Nice write-up & pictorial display. As always, Matt, you’re a perfectionist at heart and a steadfast devotee to the brand. I always enjoy your colorful writing style and THANX for sharing your extensive years of Mentat study for which all of us all of us in this small community are forever in your debt. Your generosity and fairness in your small business customer focused acumen also shines true to form.
 
Nice write-up & pictorial display. As always, Matt, you’re a perfectionist at heart and a steadfast devotee to the brand. I always enjoy your colorful writing style and THANX for sharing your extensive years of Mentat study for which all of us all of us in this small community are forever in your debt. Your generosity and fairness in your small business customer focused acumen also shines true to form.


.
Thank you very much ….

Those the kindest words , 🙂

My little NipponDenso parts delivery trucks mini meme Masterpiece I started last holiday tree day parts Season 2023 …


Maybe it’s not yet done ?

Maybe it is ….

Those are STOUTS
 
I have an 1984 FJ60, pretty much stock electronically speaking. My alternator went out and it appears to be an OEM rebuild (see attached). It spins fine and doesn't make any noise, it just quit putting out voltage.

Can anyone recommend a shop to take it to local to the greater Seattle area, preferable south end? I know there are vendors referenced on this website that may be willing to do it, I would just prefer take this one somewhere and get it fixed without shipping and all that hassle.

Thanks!View attachment 3723155
I have taken some stuff to ‘The Rebuilder’ in Kent - so far it’s been good work - give him a call.

the Rebuilder
(253) 398-4107



the Rebuilder - Google Search - https://g.co/kgs/5UkcUwh
 

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