Alternator - Napa or Oreilly
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Trunk Monkey
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This. Read it.
Cliff Notes...do not buy from the auto parts stores. Buy a Denso off Amazon.
- Thread starter
- #4
Sorry, working on my phone because LC is stranded in Ellensburg, WA.
So, based on the other thread, am I to believe that a unit from Amazon that is listed as "by Denso" is completely unrelated to the goons who rebuild them for Napa, oreiellys, and Car Quest? Reason I ask is because I think the casing on the unit that most recently failed is marked Denso and it came from Car Quest.
So, based on the other thread, am I to believe that a unit from Amazon that is listed as "by Denso" is completely unrelated to the goons who rebuild them for Napa, oreiellys, and Car Quest? Reason I ask is because I think the casing on the unit that most recently failed is marked Denso and it came from Car Quest.
Any of the units you buy from the auto parts stores is rebuilt by one of the only two rebuild factories in North America.
A unit bought off Amazon and sold by Denso will be a rebuilt by Denso unit, meaning they replaced everything that could go bad even if it was good when it came in.
If you buy a unit that is NOT sold by Denso, then you are taking your chances. Even if it says Denso on the unit.
3 years ago I put in denso reman's from NAPA in both the 1999 and 2009 . reason., I didn't have any time so I had my shop(which is my friends and 3 mins from home) do them, got a lifetime warranty on labor and parts, we had just did the same with denso starters, so it made since. I am use to old cruisers.....so when we got the 100's years ago I picked up a Toyota reman starter to have on hand, then realized where it was, never did use it.
and I have also learned.....for the most part, it's best to let others work on the wifes lexus, might cost a bit more than if I did but in the end its cheaper...
But no issues with aftermarket denso parts in blue denso boxes. I may be wrong but I do suspect the same part from toyota may be a bit higher quality or have higher quality control. On all my old cruisers almost all I have used for 25 years are OEM reman(-84 part #), parts, they are as good as a new part.
and I have also learned.....for the most part, it's best to let others work on the wifes lexus, might cost a bit more than if I did but in the end its cheaper...
But no issues with aftermarket denso parts in blue denso boxes. I may be wrong but I do suspect the same part from toyota may be a bit higher quality or have higher quality control. On all my old cruisers almost all I have used for 25 years are OEM reman(-84 part #), parts, they are as good as a new part.
Really wish you'd stop spewing this BS!
Here is a Denso ad specifically stating they TEST components, just like everyone else. They REPACK bearings where possible, etc...
From Denso Ad:
1. Housing
Re-tapped to OE standards and damage-checked for heat warping, corrosion, or improper surface alignment.
2. Stator
Insulation tested to 600 volts.
3. Rotor
Performance and insulation tested to 600 volts.
4. Bearing
100% tested to OE standards and repacked with OEM grade lubricant.
5. Slip Ring
re-machined to an average of 8 microns (20 micron run-out maximum).
6. Voltage Regulator
100% voltage tested to OE standards.
7. Rectifier
Performance tested to 300 volts.
8. Hardware
100% stripped and replated.
And please provide information on the TWO companies (North American) that are supposedly the ONLY remanufacturers!
The DENSO alternator (remanufactured O'Reilly) I have was not done even done in the U.S. so there are certainly other sources than the two you keep parroting from "managers" someplace.
And what is the warranty on a remanufactured unit by Denso? 1 year.
The premium reman from O'Reilly is DENSO 'product' and goes through the same process. Read below:
From the O/R site:
- UPC: 190037034687
- Remanufactured
- 100 Amp
- Optional
- Remanufactured
- New Or Remanufactured: Remanufactured
- Amperage (A): 100 Amp
- Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
- Pulley Included: Yes
- Number Of Pulley Grooves: 6
- Voltage Regulator Type: Internal Regulator
- Voltage (V): 12 Volt
- Fan Type: Internal
- Series: Nippondenso
BRAND INFORMATION
Alternators and components are thouroughly inspected and tested to meet or exceed O.E.M. specifications ensuring Quality. Alternator bearings, brushes and brush springs are replaced with New.Rotors are electronically tested for amperage in insulation quality. Rotor slip rings are machined and checked for concentricity or replaced with New. Stators are tested for insulation quality, phase balance and amp output or replaced with New.All units are performance tested to measure output curve, turn on speed and other critical specifications with test reports enclosed with the product.
MANUFACTURER INFORMATION
Ultima premium remanufactured starters and alternators provide superior quality, industry-leading coverage and extreme durability. Remanufactured by ISO/TS 16949 certified factories to meet or exceed OE quality standards, Ultima starters and alternators utilize the newest OE technology improvements to provide unmatched performance. Ultima units are designed to withstand the extreme electrical rigors demanded from today's vehicles. Every unit is 100% performance tested from component through final assembly to ensure dependable service and reliable performance.
- High performance components deliver reliable cranking and charging power
- Assembled with premium bushings, bearings, seals and lubricants
- Every component inspected to strict quality standards
- All sub-assemblies 100% tested
- Remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM specifications
- Every unit is 100% performance tested
- Complete domestic and import coverage
- Industry-leading warranty
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- Thread starter
- #9
Flint - Thanks for the rebuttal. Looks like you are endorsing the Denso reman as well, but including Oreilly as a supplier.
Your post notes Oreilly's "premium" lineup as well...called Ultima. How was/is your experience with the Ultima? I think I am going that route tomorrow so I can rescue my rig, and in the meantime look for a salvage OEM and rebuild it myself (which I should have done in the first place, and I knew it!).
Your post notes Oreilly's "premium" lineup as well...called Ultima. How was/is your experience with the Ultima? I think I am going that route tomorrow so I can rescue my rig, and in the meantime look for a salvage OEM and rebuild it myself (which I should have done in the first place, and I knew it!).
What I am 'endorsing' is a DELCO product (which you get from O'Reilly) 'Remanufactured' (not rebuilt or repaired), by a company that O'Reilly uses (based in Mexico). O'Reilly's STANDARDS for the 'Reman' (when compared to a DENSO remanufactured Denso product) are BETTER than Denso's. Plus each and every unit is tested. AND you have a lifetime warranty (not 1 year).
I am not a person to enter into things haphazardly or take someone else's 'word' for it. I do my homework, its my nature.
The O'Reilly PREMIUM remanufactured DENSO alternator is the best thing I could find short of a NEW alternator.
Mine has only been on the vehicle since February...so 'longevity' is not yet something I can speak to. But the fit, function and obvious attention to detail have been flawless.
Believe me...I don't want to have to replace it again anytime soon. It's not in a very friendly place to get to. I'm 6'-5" and 270 lbs. and it's no fun squeezing myself underneath a vehicle. So naturally, I want the best shot at getting something that will fit, work and last. My choice was as mentioned above.
I have no doubt there are inferior (rebuilt/repaired) alternators out there that don't last. But I am equally certain that a lot of failed alternators have contributing factors (bad batteries, poor connections or wiring, etc).
Do your own homework, compare and decide for yourself. I am confident with my choice and IF it turns out I was wrong...I WILL be the first to admit it and report back here. If nothing else...I am honest.
Flint.
B
Buy a new connector before you begin the job, the old one is likely very brittle. Mine literally fell apart when I touched it.
Easy to splice in a new connector and start with a GOOD connection that will last and not cause resistance.
Buy a new connector before you begin the job, the old one is likely very brittle. Mine literally fell apart when I touched it.
Easy to splice in a new connector and start with a GOOD connection that will last and not cause resistance.
Thank you for doing that research. My info is old but I think still somewhat relevant as the OP is looking for his 3rd alternator in 12mo.
Something's may have changed in the 6yrs since I did all of my research.
Again, thank you.
I wonder what Toyota requires a reman to go thru before it hits the shelf. Back in the day, my toyota parts guy of 30 years(with toyota, total of 50 years in parts biz) said they basicly replace everything (that can be) and as good as a NEW non reman. I cant think of a single OEM reman that has failed in 25 years, that would be well over 10 starters and at least as many alts, most now going on 10-20 years. (There is a reason I bought a "few" spare 1980's) reman alts before they went NLA)
Parts like a 2f voltage reg, its called a reman, but I actually think it's a brand new part, there just isn't much to reman on a reg, I can't see it worth the time to reman that small part, the housing all look NEW.
Parts like a 2f voltage reg, its called a reman, but I actually think it's a brand new part, there just isn't much to reman on a reg, I can't see it worth the time to reman that small part, the housing all look NEW.
Don't know, but I would expect an honest to goodness TOYOTA 'reman' to be cream of the crop, likely all new parts save for the housing and possibly the windings.
- Thread starter
- #15
Couple pieces of info to add to this thread:
1 - The Oreillys Ultima that I just bought was REMANUFACTUTED in China.
2 - I was able to drive 71 miles on the battery. It was mostly highway, about 90 minutes. And it still runs.
3 - Flintlnappers recommendation is solid. The plugs are a weak point.
1 - The Oreillys Ultima that I just bought was REMANUFACTUTED in China.
2 - I was able to drive 71 miles on the battery. It was mostly highway, about 90 minutes. And it still runs.
3 - Flintlnappers recommendation is solid. The plugs are a weak point.
Ordered mine off of Ebay...but just about any major auto parts store should have it (or get it for you overnight). Repair plug for 100 amp alternator. Same plug used on a BUNCH of different vehicles that use the Denso alt.
The wire colors might not match what you have on your vehicle...but just splice them by 'location' (one at a time).
2001LC
SILVER Star
Guy's, my two cent here on alternator's wires & housing connections.
I firmly believe IF the wires needs splicing (which they should not unless cut) they should be soldered and sealed, or connection will fail.
I've not replaced our alternators or wires, but I've replaced the knock sensor wire and wire housing block, and starter wire housing block connections. Knock sensor wire cut, what do I do HELP In this thread you'll see I received some great help & advise from mud members. Just to name a few members: @arcteryx @Sandroad @DFXR with special thanks @Julian Stead @hankinid for their first hand knowledge of the Raychem SolderGrip Heat-Srink Butt splicers.
Two things I learned:
1) Using a quality splice is key to a long lasting trouble free job. The standard crimp wire splicers will not last, at minimum resistance will increase at splice. Read through the link I provided. In it you'll see the self soldering and water tight self sealing all in one splicer, that works incredible well.
2) Toyota has the wire housing block connection needed for starter & knock sensor connections. In each case I learned by looking at old and new wire block connections that the wires connection tips came out of housing by releasing a clip. Then I simple needed to plug old wire into new wire block housing connection. I only spliced the wires (Toyota supplied) that had been eaten through (cut) by Mickey & Minny.
I've not verified that Toyota has the alternator wire block connection available, but it's a very likely they do.
I firmly believe IF the wires needs splicing (which they should not unless cut) they should be soldered and sealed, or connection will fail.
I've not replaced our alternators or wires, but I've replaced the knock sensor wire and wire housing block, and starter wire housing block connections. Knock sensor wire cut, what do I do HELP In this thread you'll see I received some great help & advise from mud members. Just to name a few members: @arcteryx @Sandroad @DFXR with special thanks @Julian Stead @hankinid for their first hand knowledge of the Raychem SolderGrip Heat-Srink Butt splicers.
Two things I learned:
1) Using a quality splice is key to a long lasting trouble free job. The standard crimp wire splicers will not last, at minimum resistance will increase at splice. Read through the link I provided. In it you'll see the self soldering and water tight self sealing all in one splicer, that works incredible well.
2) Toyota has the wire housing block connection needed for starter & knock sensor connections. In each case I learned by looking at old and new wire block connections that the wires connection tips came out of housing by releasing a clip. Then I simple needed to plug old wire into new wire block housing connection. I only spliced the wires (Toyota supplied) that had been eaten through (cut) by Mickey & Minny.
I've not verified that Toyota has the alternator wire block connection available, but it's a very likely they do.
