Alignment needed - Advice to give to a shop? (1 Viewer)

[BigMF]

All,

I've gotten an alignment in the past and when I drove off, I was getting some warning lights (Check VGRS System) on the dash. I ended up clearing it via Teachstream and calibrating the steering wheel.

My LX is now pulling to the right for some reason. Not sure why but assume it's an alignment issue even though I don't recall running through any hard potholes lately. Tire pressure is not causing it. I believe there may be some things to talk to the shop folks about that are specific with regards to the LX. I seem to recall a problem being that they should (or should not) adjust the tie rods or something like that which is different than most standard alignment jobs.

I'm thinking about going to the local Firestone that has a "Lifetime Alignment" offer for $179. The shop get's good reviews on Google. Any thoughts or advice to give the shop guys when I drop it off?

 

[04UZJ100]

Avoid Firestone for absolutely everything. Find a good local 4x4 shop that knows what they’re doing.

 

[TLC2013]

After I had my Lift and UCAs installed I found a dedicated frame and alignment shop that was familiar with 4x4s, specifically Toyotas. I would use them again as they did a fantastic job but they are over 1.5 hour drive away. I now keep that alignment printout in my glove box and give it to my Local big box tire and alignment shop to duplicate. They offer a 5 year alignment plan which has paid for itself. I always seem to knock my toe out out wack when wheeling, which causes a severe pull to the right or left.

They have been pretty cool about using these specs and get things very close to what I had before. I have found that giving The printout to the guy at the register doesn’t always work but talking to the tech performing the alignments and giving him the sheet has been successful.

 

[Markuson]

All,

I've gotten an alignment in the past and when I drove off, I was getting some warning lights (Check VGRS System) on the dash. I ended up clearing it via Teachstream and calibrating the steering wheel.

My LX is now pulling to the right for some reason. Not sure why but assume it's an alignment issue even though I don't recall running through any hard potholes lately. Tire pressure is not causing it. I believe there may be some things to talk to the shop folks about that are specific with regards to the LX. I seem to recall a problem being that they should (or should not) adjust the tie rods or something like that which is different than most standard alignment jobs.

I'm thinking about going to the local Firestone that has a "Lifetime Alignment" offer for $179. The shop get's good reviews on Google. Any thoughts or advice to give the shop guys when I drop it off?

I recently had HORRIBLE pull…both before & after two Alignments at two highly respected shops.

Turned out it was one particular wheel/tire. Brand new tire…so no idea whats up there, but getting that single tire off the truck literally solved my pull.

Unusual… But maybe swap right to left in front… test for pull from opposite side. If no change, swap rear sides.

 

[CharlieS]

Find a well reputed shop with an experienced tech that knows his/her stuff and don’t try to tell them how to do their job. Pay fair money for a good job and don’t try to pinch pennies with lifetime deals. What are the odds that you are going to get both the best and the cheapest?

 

[bentonrover]

Trust me stick to Toyota. I've a 4 wheel special for $69 then another dealer charges $99. Prices are all over the place but they know their vehicles. Who we kidding they should know them lol

 

[KLF]

A tip I learned long ago from my son that used to work in a tire place. Make the appointment, show up, but sit out in your truck and wait. When the tech comes out to fetch your truck, hand him a $10 and tell him/her to spend extra time to get it "right", not just within allowable specs. It's always worked well for me.

Have you had the tires road force balanced?

 

[Markuson]

I recently had HORRIBLE pull…both before & after two Alignments at two highly respected shops.

Turned out it was one particular wheel/tire. Brand new tire…so no idea whats up there, but getting that single tire off the truck literally solved my pull.

Trust me stick to Toyota. I've a 4 wheel special for $69 then another dealer charges $99. Prices are all over the place but they know their vehicles. Who we kidding they should know them lol

Problem is… Toyota often has no clue what to do with larger tires paired with after market UCAs…especially if SPC with rotated ball.

 

[CharlieS]

Go to the best 4x4 shop in your area and ask them if they do alignments, and if not, who they use. Our local 4x4 shop told me who they use and suggested that I contact them directly. And I got a great alignment…

 

[BigMF]

Thanks guys.

The local Lexus dealer has what I think is a decent price ($129) for an alignment but I may be wrong. My challenge right now is that I'm hitting some trails this weekend and do not have time to get over to a 4x4 shop before then. I may be able to get into the dealer or possibly a local shop recommended by a local Mud'er.

 

[linuxgod]

Your alignment is probably off a bit... maybe because the tech was competent, maybe because your vehicle is at the edge of the spec due to the lift settings and he didn't know what to do, or maybe because it aligned OK on the machine but the suspension was slightly bound up (like how your suspension might seem taller when you initially take if off a 2 post lift until you drive it around the block). But despite the pull it's likely not THAT far off.

I'd leave the alignment as-is, go run your trails this weekend, and then go find a good shop later this month. Putting 100 or 200 miles on the vehicle with your current setup is highly unlikely to do any long term wear/tire damage, but rushing to another alignment shop is a roll of the dice and they might screw it up more.

(For comparison, I rushed to get an alignment from a 4.9 star local business and while they talked a good game they totally screwed up the job - i.e. over-rotating the rear LCA cam, claiming the bushings must be bad because they were rotating the cam but it wasn't moving, then leaving the truck with a terrible half-alignment. I then had to drive it for 2 weeks until I could get to the shop I should have just waited for in the first place).

 

[TeCKis300]

Thanks guys.

The local Lexus dealer has what I think is a decent price ($129) for an alignment but I may be wrong. My challenge right now is that I'm hitting some trails this weekend and do not have time to get over to a 4x4 shop before then. I may be able to get into the dealer or possibly a local shop recommended by a local Mud'er.

I believe you're on stock UCAs? There's more merit to using the Lexus dealer than may meet the eye, though it's always subject to the specific tech.

- It's really a 2-wheel alignment as the rear suspension does not have provisions for adjustability. It's statically set within the solid axle and trailing arms. Though they'll want to put alignment sensors on all wheels anyways so you can get a read, particularly to check for damage (bent trailing arms)
- Alignment on modern Toyota's require performing zero point calibration post alignment. Most bigger alignment shops should be able to handle this, but it may be a hit and miss at some boutique 4x4 shops that don't often work on modern cars. Lexus will get this right. Without it, leads to premature and hypersensitive vehicle stability control stepping in when cornering
- Big tires don't really impact the alignment process. I had my 35s done by Lexus without an issue. Stock UCA so it doesn't complicate things to the point they can't handle it.
- They'll have more sophisticated equipment for consistent measurements. All tech needs to do is get it in the green.

Any shop doing this may try to get it done the lazy way and just dial in toe with the steering tie-rod. Insist they also dial in caster and camber with the LCA adjustments.
- Toe: platform doesn't need much toe in at all. Just a hint of total toe, 0.08 will do
- Caster: get it in range. Lower end of range 2.8 for bigger tires is fine
- Camber: insist on no positive camber especially with bigger sidewall tires. A hint of negative camber can help to avoid sidewall rollover. It also helps with the LX in high mode as it naturally will lose some camber in this suspension position. -.2