Builds AK HJ-75 (3 Viewers)

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Here’s outside pics, supposed to still be sunny but weather decided to expedite the arrival of snow 🙄 It’s just barely tall enough for me to walk under

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Wow, that's pretty awesome looking. Being you are from Alaska, I assume it is rated for HUGE snow loads! 😜

An "easy" fix if you want it a little higher to walk under would be to install a fresh lift and larger tires!! 😃 Looks great bud! 👍
 
Wow, that's pretty awesome looking. Being you are from Alaska, I assume it is rated for HUGE snow loads! 😜

An "easy" fix if you want it a little higher to walk under would be to install a fresh lift and larger tires!! 😃 Looks great bud! 👍
Well, the whole goal for this build is that it fits in my garage, so….not much options for more lift/bigger tires. I might be able to use 33” tires, I haven’t test fitted them yet since building the cap.
 
Ah, yes good point!! And in AK, you being parked in a garage, at least during the winter is definitely a nice to have. Winters are pretty mild in comparison here in the Okanagan of BC. Throughout most of the winter it is above freezing during the day at least. So my 10' carport for the Cruiser is sufficient, though I would not mind one bit if I could fit it in the garage to work on it... lol.

I would need my 4 inch lift and 35" tires if I put an awning on my Cruiser as I am 6'3". On almost all my Land Cruisers I have installed Supra seats as they were far more comfortable and went back farther to give me more legroom. The seats in my Land Cruiser are comfortable enough, so I am thinking of doing the flat bar seat extension that @FJBen did on his seat. I am nearly as tall as he is, and for longer trips, it sure would be nice to have an extra few inches.
 
Ah, yes good point!! And in AK, you being parked in a garage, at least during the winter is definitely a nice to have. Winters are pretty mild in comparison here in the Okanagan of BC. Throughout most of the winter it is above freezing during the day at least. So my 10' carport for the Cruiser is sufficient, though I would not mind one bit if I could fit it in the garage to work on it... lol.

I would need my 4 inch lift and 35" tires if I put an awning on my Cruiser as I am 6'3". On almost all my Land Cruisers I have installed Supra seats as they were far more comfortable and went back farther to give me more legroom. The seats in my Land Cruiser are comfortable enough, so I am thinking of doing the flat bar seat extension that @FJBen did on his seat. I am nearly as tall as he is, and for longer trips, it sure would be nice to have an extra few inches.
Would be nice to get my seat farther back but no such luck in a Ute 🙄
 
So started into one of my winter projects. First is to redo the HVAC since I have not gotten much air out of the vents, especially the defrost, even though the fan is blowing quite a storm, or at least it sounds like it 🤣. Since I will be in the dash I figured I would also install the under dash ac kit. And might as well try and do some sound deadening. Heard about using dry ice to remove the factory sound deadening. Got a little bit to try and by golly it works, a little slow, but it is interesting to hear the factory stuff pop. Will continue when I come back from work again.

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Found rust where the floor is joined to the back wall😕 need to figure out how to treat that area .

I recommend to remove the paint by wire wheel and then use first a penetrating rust protection that cures, and then a sealing paint.
Here in Germany I would go for Owatrol oil and Brantho Korrux. Not sure what is available at your end.
Sandblasting would not get into the fissures of the sheet metal here, but that's where the rust sits.
I don't recommend rust converter either. I don't know any rust converter that penetrates any good into fissures between sheet metal like here.
Usually they immediately react with the first millimeters of rust and by that form a barrier that prevents any further penetration into the fissures. The deeper rust remains unreached and keeps on blooming.
 
So just an FYI on the dry ice method. If you mix it with rubbing alcohol and make a slurry it works a lot better and faster. I also crush the dry ice when making the slurry.

Cheers
 
Also found some light surface rust under the raptor liner that someone before me used on the floor. Do I remove the rest of the raptor liner (by chipping it away, which will take a long time) or just ignore it and install the floor sound deadening and cover with mastercoat rust sealer?

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Also found some light surface rust under the raptor liner that someone before me used on the floor. Do I remove the rest of the raptor liner (by chipping it away, which will take a long time) or just ignore it and install the floor sound deadening and cover with mastercoat rust sealer?
@coldtaco if you plan on keeping this baby. I would remove all of it to make certain none is left and it's done properly
 
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I would remove it. Use a small CSD sanding wheel. Preserve as many of the original green coating as possible. Don't overgrind.
This is surface rust, so here a rust converter can be used to treat any remains, as no penetration is required. Then coat.
 

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