Builds AK HJ-75 (2 Viewers)

[coldtaco]

Dry ice slurry also makes bed liner fall off.

Cheers

work for raptor liner?

 

[SNLC]

work for raptor liner?

I have not tried it personally on raptor but cheaper bedliner like duplicolor it falls right off. LineX, raptor, ect are more rubberized, the dry ice method is less effective when dealing with rubberized material. Like the spray on factory seam sealer in wheel wells. For that a torch and wire brush on the die grinder or 4.5” grinder works better.

Really nasty jobs too!

Cheers

 

[coldtaco]

Tried the dry ice slurry. Seems to have helped some on the flat surfaces where I could keep in on. Couldn’t find a way to use it on any sides so back to the abrasive wheels, but run out of em so done for today. I will wipe a light coat of WD40 over the bare metal and then remove with a degreaser when I get back to this. Will be back hopefully on the 25th from work.

 

[Felde]

The bedliner coating on vertical surfaces may come off with dry ice blasting.
I wouldn't use WD40 to temporarily protect the bare metal. WD40 is oily and may prevent the enamel to stick properly later on. It will be very hard to properly degrease the surface, in particular around the many nut holes, brackets and joints. There are special spray primers to temporarily protect bare metal, which can stay on and don't have to be removed before coating. Actually, leaving the metal untreated works for quite a long time, if it's not too humid. Giving it a light sanding rub before coating, if needed, would be less work than getting that oily WD40 stuff removed.

 

[coldtaco]

Finally got it Stripped down as far as I wanted to get it. Waiting to put on the 3rd coat of Masterseries silver tonight.

 

[coldtaco]

Here’s the after 3 coats and dry. This stuff flows very well. I did this with a sponge brush. If you like flat silver for your car paint color you could just about use this stuff to paint the outside of your rig with a brush.

 

[SNLC]

So I use big gloves when I hold the slurry in places. I have also found depending on how wet or dry I make the slurry also matters. Wetter seems to work best, you want it the consistency of a slushy or snow cone. Chunky just doesn’t work well. To prepare it I smash it all with a hammer and then mix in rubbing alcohol until it becomes the slurry.

Any ways, floor looks great!

Cheers

 

[coldtaco]

oh yeah, instructions say to use a external air source when using. After a couple of showers and blowing my nose a few times I still have the smell in my nose

 

[jblueridge]

Yeah, that stuff, POR15: it’s like they seep into your nose cells.

 

[coldtaco]

Don’t remember Por15 staying with you as long. I know it stays on your skin for a while

 

[coldtaco]

Transmission cover done. Homework for tonight is to YouTube how to install the sound deadening.

 

[bcsteel]

Question, where did you buy that paint? I’ve been trying to find it in Canada but that’s proving to be tough. Have heard it is pretty amazing stuff

 

[coldtaco]

You can buy it direct or google search for some dealers, didn’t find too many places that sold it.

 

[coldtaco]

Taking a break from installing the sound deadening to try and install the aftermarket a/c kit since I will have to cut a hole in the firewall.
So I believe this kit is designed for 1990 and up HZ rigs. The attach brackets to attach to the blower box don’t fit so I had to work on getting that fixed. Next I have to see how the a/c kit fits to the center HVAC box. While I was messing with the blower box I installed/replaced the seals.

 

[coldtaco]

Tabs

 

[coldtaco]

Seals

 

[coldtaco]

I wish the housing was made out of a stronger, or thicker, plastic. Got a little rip on this end. Stop drilled the end of the rip with a pointy soldering iron and ran the tip across the rip to hopefully “weld” across the rip. Seems to be holding.

 

[coldtaco]

Here’s some pictures of the a/c box. The tubes going through the firewall seem a little long

 

[Felde]

I wish the housing was made out of a stronger, or thicker, plastic. Got a little rip on this end. Stop drilled the end of the rip with a pointy soldering iron and ran the tip across the rip to hopefully “weld” across the rip. Seems to be holding.

This may not stand much stress. Depending on the way it's mounted and the stress it receives, I suggest to put some clamps over the crack.
Just heat some ordinary paper-stapler staples or similar bended from wire and melt it in.

 

[coldtaco]

Looks like nothing in the way on the engine side.