Air filters

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Yeah for the price of that reproduction one you could do something out of silicone boots pretty easily.

Mine has a pretty gentle bend now as opposed to the 90+ degree I'd have needed if I didn't slide the box forward.


I have wrap and a "turbo blanket" to throw on mine, but not yet.


I'm going to let the soot show me the leaks for a while :hillbilly:
 
Also picked up header wrap to do my stainless exhaust down pipe to try to keep engine bay temperatures down.

View attachment 3353955
Decided to throw some wrap and the blanket I got on mine, because my throttle cable was getting a little toasty...:lol:

That the same kinda goldy faux kevlar s*** I used? God DAMN is it itchy , I'm pretty immune to the charms of fiberglass, but that is some weapons grade prickly fiber.

I think they may have found something better for you than asbestos.

Sure was cheap though ! :lol: 😒

AJFCJaUEO0drXU4C6Yv-pJN7k2mz5MpqmPFgR_By38FSe-aGJCzySztSQfTu0plynH0cO_LN1JQo-dEVSW2FDNEWzkSA9a9ch9Nngl-V0gY9nzBuyuHVjw1mjXvrnPmngrxNdCBn6i6mIL1Titd4NJRE2bQ5vCp7h3wA5QM3HcFlOX6Hs2bPN-s05EWoUWB9OIKV-ElMgt-Wv2ZyFhYn_WsKODhK_TwzBzxcsBFG3P-TpHjIYrW7WFidnpCG0QDzX0qi1lJaicd1AUqK4dswfV32UG26ClILmJHhcSAStHluxjrsiog_ZhDnvm8znLIjyJs_svphXwf8pDqh8iDRG5DEJmp8Z5PUoGgiGqINL_2UtNQP9VBVXgWEAuiGpmzCp8dyJ1vW7ahOQp9w1k7rtPHWUwisCGyQV4zK7Xto8e6IJlLOZV-7VZ-pSzhGt9oRiR0kgXy41gef7hVUna1OOuRMjE6iALdXDyPhXpK3GPrMs9V51SXK6QP9b4_Bl7ZcY5HiQxfuJXZi8GuN7L5dSvxshYCBhg97bYuRyk_89_9hgIsZiQRYtSJrI6685J3tjefpQ8EA6DgSYa7NwqXhef4Q4wdI9DBwmW7ZR2FIJbuMMhUu26O-XxwpE5xCUbV2cf9eRzHyhdV28BE_WYLdITYKKEWv6cmGXhMQTJO2WfyEvbuA1v-SQNrGGKFe9DBC0mPAPkf-5EhxSyCo35_ppJWLslVLtJukocRaRe_4XcrN0ZUfjqS2Z42m58vX2v3gbRjqkFd7-5AO2DsEMMXqosUPGcFPwlbFxEL9KCQdkEe8tCYXoT4vO-Egqz2htyqVDj2nqrgiY7Wf3nq4OIOHu8m8ydFylmeIsc_hNr-j3Mpqd9IHTcVCtjlpqWy8BUCCZQccCtZJZKLojmJo58Hk-o4WcLXIhg8=w703-h937-s-no
 
I heard it’s volcanic pumice remelted and woven into fibre strips. I think it’s worth doing just to buy some more time for the heat sensitive rubber hoses and plastic wiring on that side of the motor. I even put a heat shield between the body and my fuel line that runs right by the turbo and exhaust on a 85 bj60.
IMG_0014.jpeg


My new reworked air box. Still working on a hard pipe to shoot for that fender hole, wrap around the battery and end up near the grill.
IMG_0012.jpeg


The factory fender intake pipe has this water trap or drain i might try to incorporate.. eventually but probably not this summer.
IMG_0015.jpeg
 
I heard it’s volcanic pumice remelted and woven into fibre strips. I think it’s worth doing just to buy some more time for the heat sensitive rubber hoses and plastic wiring on that side of the motor. I even put a heat shield between the body and my fuel line that runs right by the turbo and exhaust on a 85 bj60. View attachment 3354024

My new reworked air box. Still working on a hard pipe to shoot for that fender hole, wrap around the battery and end up near the grill.
View attachment 3354022

The factory fender intake pipe has this water trap or drain i might try to incorporate.. eventually but probably not this summer.
View attachment 3354028
Yeah I've got the heater valve and lines right there. I replaced most of it with hard line so I think it'll be ok.

You'd have a lot more room for that intake if you moved your batteries. Best thing I've ever done with 40s is getting that 200lbs off the front end. I'm going to move my overflow jug to the other side so that whole space is available for a bigger intake.

Met a guy with the 20 year 60 project and he had big storage bins under the front seats. Pretty slick, seat and lid tipped back for access...he had some good ideas and some wtf ideas.
 
I've got something like this to clean up my battery install under drivers seat...
Battery box.JPG

Of course I didn't pay $75 from Amazon for one... mine I bought used and may need to modify to fit a 31 series. It will either fit or be slightly short... haven't confirmed yet.
There is space under hood for a battery, but I like having a 31 series under the seat. It's 1050 CCA and 210 RC so it'll get me home even if the alternator dies & winch works better with it.
 
I've got something like this to clean up my battery install under drivers seat...View attachment 3354205
Of course I didn't pay $75 from Amazon for one... mine I bought used and may need to modify to fit a 31 series. It will either fit or be slightly short... haven't confirmed yet.
There is space under hood for a battery, but I like having a 31 series under the seat. It's 1050 CCA and 210 RC so it'll get me home even if the alternator dies & winch works better with it.
The batteries being right up at the furthest forward point always bugs me. A lot of weight if nothing else.

It is harder to fix in a 60 though.
 
Now I have some real estate for that intake...

PXL_20230621_172403404.jpg


I don't have anything right dimensions to get into it today.

I think there might be something to going too big and losing the cyclone effect.

It is interesting how the old lids are different from newer. Hard to imagine the newer style (right) flows better than the old?
PXL_20230621_172839169.jpg


I do wonder if the dimple in the centre could be pressed back out without it looking like crap. Or if that'd make any difference worth bothering with.
 
I’m a specialized mechanic so pretty much an expert engineer regardless of field, and also a cruiser scientist.

My thought is having that extra part dimpled out didn’t increase any flow. You can see the entire 5 inch dimple area is open to the inside of the air filter so air is basically flowing up from below and making the turn into the pipe.
IMG_9966.jpeg


Imagining that air flow vertically coming up from inside the filter element around the centre bolt and making that turn into the pipe. Rather than I think the way you are thinking of air from the lid enters the pipe. The way I’m thinking of it that extra void would pretty much be dead air without purpose.
IMG_0028.jpeg


Also I once had a cruiserpilot like episode, my 60 was way down on power, I checked the air filter and found my housing completely full of mouse nest debris, even ate threw the wire into the filter element. You guys do anything to keep the pests out?
 
I’m a specialized mechanic so pretty much an expert engineer regardless of field, and also a cruiser scientist.

My thought is having that extra part dimpled out didn’t increase any flow. You can see the entire 5 inch dimple area is open to the inside of the air filter so air is basically flowing up from below and making the turn into the pipe.
View attachment 3354473

Imagining that air flow vertically coming up from inside the filter element around the centre bolt and making that turn into the pipe. Rather than I think the way you are thinking of air from the lid enters the pipe. The way I’m thinking of it that extra void would pretty much be dead air without purpose.
View attachment 3354474

Also I once had a cruiserpilot like episode, my 60 was way down on power, I checked the air filter and found my housing completely full of mouse nest debris, even ate threw the wire into the filter element. You guys do anything to keep the pests out?
Some of that is probably true, but then those 1fz lids exist sooo...

The area of the gap is probably enough to feed the 3" outlet, but it's an odd design, especially with the newer version having and even more pronounced dimple.

Suspect it all comes back to the cyclone effect, that air coming up is spinning, and the dimple reduces turbulence and back eddies.

My know-it-all dogfucker certificate also allows for cruiser sciencing. :lol:
 
I’m a specialized mechanic so pretty much an expert engineer regardless of field, and also a cruiser scientist.

My thought is having that extra part dimpled out didn’t increase any flow. You can see the entire 5 inch dimple area is open to the inside of the air filter so air is basically flowing up from below and making the turn into the pipe.
View attachment 3354473

Imagining that air flow vertically coming up from inside the filter element around the centre bolt and making that turn into the pipe. Rather than I think the way you are thinking of air from the lid enters the pipe. The way I’m thinking of it that extra void would pretty much be dead air without purpose.
View attachment 3354474

Also I once had a cruiserpilot like episode, my 60 was way down on power, I checked the air filter and found my housing completely full of mouse nest debris, even ate threw the wire into the filter element. You guys do anything to keep the pests out?
Snorkel? So far they haven't figured out how to climb that yet. Keep your hood open if it's sitting, but obviously it has to be under cover.
Keep the quilted hood liner tight, don't let the little buggers climb up into there. I had rats in mine one winter.
Solution was .22 shotshells and a jack russell.
 
Snorkel? So far they haven't figured out how to climb that yet. Keep your hood open if it's sitting, but obviously it has to be under cover.
Keep the quilted hood liner tight, don't let the little buggers climb up into there. I had rats in mine one winter.
Solution was .22 shotshells and a jack russell.
My cat likes to perch atop my front wheels. That, combined with no inner fenders is likely a big deterrent for the little buggers. For him it would be like bobbing for apples to catch them.
 
Solution was .22 shotshells and a jack russell.
Ok got it! shotgun, snorkel, cut off my inner fenders and buy a cat! But why stop at .22 shot?
IMG_0054.gif


To keep the rodents out of my filter canister I was thinking something more like this stainless trash pump strainer.
IMG_0055.jpeg



Got around to testing the new set up with the different lid and 3 1/2 inch canister inlet pipe. This is the vacuum difference at 3000 rpm now, almost none!
IMG_0053.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Ok got it! shotgun, snorkel, cut off my inner fenders and buy a cat! But why stop at .22 shot?
View attachment 3355343

To keep the rodents out of my filter canister I was thinking something more like this stainless trash pump strainer.
View attachment 3355368


Got around to testing the new set up with the different lid and 3 1/2 inch canister inlet pipe. This is the vacuum difference at 3000 rpm now, almost none!
View attachment 3355344

Right on man, good work. So basically you just changed inlet pipe diameter going into air filter can correct? These pictures are at what rpm again? Engine unloaded I guess.
 
Top picture is at idle, bottom picture is at 3000 rpm with no noticeable spike in vacuum when the throttle is mashed, yes unloaded parked in in my driveway. I also changed the canister lid to an older style but same outlet diameter and yes I modified the filter canister inlet pipe from 2 7/8ish to 3 1/2 inches.

Woohoo! I feel like it made a noticeable difference!

IMG_0042.jpeg
 
Top picture is at idle, bottom picture is at 3000 rpm with no noticeable spike in vacuum when the throttle is mashed, yes unloaded parked in in my driveway. I also changed the canister lid to an older style but same outlet diameter and yes I modified the filter canister inlet pipe from 2 7/8ish to 3 1/2 inches.

Woohoo! I feel like it made a noticeable difference!

View attachment 3355394

Cool. Just using online calculator, I come up with a few numbers at usable rpms. Just trying to get a feeling if I should try some similar things with mine. Left VE default as not sure about our motors. https://www.boosttown.com/forced_induction/air_amount_calculator.php

3B - 800rpm no load -> 41cfm
3B - 3000rpm no load -> 153cfm
3B - 3000rpm, 10psi -> 260cfm
3B - 3000rpm, 14.7psi -> 306 cfm
3B - 3000rpm, 20psi -> 367 cfm

2LTE - 3500rpm, 20psi ->302 cfm

As 2LTE power band extends further (its a revvy motor), it seems to draw significant air too. Maybe I'll play around with this also. Although I think with mine I'd have to remove the plastic skirt that provides better cyclone effect. Just removing that alone and nothing else makes a big difference already I find.
 
I also imagine a intercooler and piping bends could add some vacuum.

I like how the 85 bj60 filter lid had pre and post filter nipples for testing. You could easily test your flow or how plugged your air filter was.
IMG_9926.jpeg


Next time you have your intake system apart you could add a couple nipples, pre and post filter or maybe post intercooler and definitively and easily check your system to see if it’s optimal.
IMG_0056.jpeg

I plan on keeping my nipple post filter, now having established a baseline using it in the future to check my moderately dirty looking filter before throwing it out for new being as it’s such an easy test to do.
IMG_9967.jpeg
 
Nice to see it actually worked!

So that ss inlet you welded on was only 3.5"? Looked bigger (that's what she said 😒)

I don't have anything in the 4" range around here, so I'll have to scrounge in the scrap pile at work over the weekend (that's what she..oh never mind :lol:)
 
Next time you have your intake system apart you could add a couple nipples, pre and post filter or maybe post intercooler and definitively and easily check your system to see if it’s optimal.

Seems Mr. T conveniently provided some already. Just gotta do some testing now!

vacuum.jpg
 
Just got denied at bumper to bumper on a new filter.

None in Canada, didn't even try to order.

Said Cummins dodge, they have 150,000 on back order. Maybe see them next year.😳

Didn't go to lordco or anything. I might have got my current one from rock auto, don't actually remember...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom