I just used the shim from the old pressure plate and pulley. What happens to these parts if they are too close or far apart? What's interesting is that they aren't on the parts sheet
Air-con compressor magnetic clutch change (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wildsmith
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I checked and my gap is .38mm... so out of spec by being too far...
Is it better to let things be until there is a problem with the AC engagement, or periodically check and adjust (if needed) the clutch anyway?
Wait, just kidding the spec is .5mm +or- .15mm so spec needs to be in between .35mm or .65mm... so I'm good!
A few weeks back I did a laundry list of maintenance under the hood, from valve cover gaskets, timing belt, hoses, fan bracket, clutch etc, and also replaced my AC compressor pulley bearing (Nachi 30BG5222UUS, replaces 30BGS10DST) in my '99. New bearing installed, play disappeared, great. At start up, the AC shows fault, and clutch won't engage. Took it to local indy shop I trust, told them what I did, and they say time for a new compressor. Didn't like hearing that. Thanks to this thread for saving me $1100-$1600 (indy, and Mr. T quotes).
FYI, the gap tolerance seems to be fungible. The OEM shim was 1.47 mm and I bought the replacement shims (.5, .3, .1 mm) for $1.60. First step, I removed the 1.47 (maybe used to be 1.5) mm and decided to insert the .5 and .3 shims. Bolted it up, and new gap is about .7 ish. Still don't understand how my old pre removal gap worked, it had to be much greater? Fired up the rig, clutch engaged and I'm happy. We'll see how much more I get out of this compressor, but it's back in action thankfully.
Cheers.
FYI, the gap tolerance seems to be fungible. The OEM shim was 1.47 mm and I bought the replacement shims (.5, .3, .1 mm) for $1.60. First step, I removed the 1.47 (maybe used to be 1.5) mm and decided to insert the .5 and .3 shims. Bolted it up, and new gap is about .7 ish. Still don't understand how my old pre removal gap worked, it had to be much greater? Fired up the rig, clutch engaged and I'm happy. We'll see how much more I get out of this compressor, but it's back in action thankfully.
Cheers.
Latest part number is 88410-60410 for a 1999 UZJ100. Need to order.
You can replace just the bearing, which I have done in the past to all toyotas I owned and it works well.
Size 30 mm inner, 52 mm outer, thickness 22 mm.
Nsk sells 30BD5222
use a Japanese bearing and never a Chinese (lasts 6000 miles or less)
Size 30 mm inner, 52 mm outer, thickness 22 mm.
Nsk sells 30BD5222
use a Japanese bearing and never a Chinese (lasts 6000 miles or less)
I used a 1/4 inch air wrench to remove the 10 mm bolt keeping the clutch to the compressor. If you have a way to hold the clutch from spinning while removing the 10 mm bolt, you do not need the air or impact wrench. NOTE: MAKE SURE TO CATCH THE SHIM WHILE REMOVING THE CLUTCH
I managed to remove the C-clip with some struggle: removing the fan may help but I didn't remove it.
I heard a noise when AC clutch is engaged but as soon as it disengages, the sound went away. After removing the clutch I spun the pulley and it spun may be 6-10 rounds, an indication of a worn bearing. After pulling the pulley out, I shook it and heard shaking balls inside the bearing.
Belt drive pulley slides out easily!
C-clip coming out (toughest part!: Due to compressor being on engine)
Note the small washer (Shim) below the clutch
Old bearing coming out!!!!
Bearing removed
I managed to remove the C-clip with some struggle: removing the fan may help but I didn't remove it.
I heard a noise when AC clutch is engaged but as soon as it disengages, the sound went away. After removing the clutch I spun the pulley and it spun may be 6-10 rounds, an indication of a worn bearing. After pulling the pulley out, I shook it and heard shaking balls inside the bearing.
Belt drive pulley slides out easily!
C-clip coming out (toughest part!: Due to compressor being on engine)
Note the small washer (Shim) below the clutch
Old bearing coming out!!!!
Bearing removed
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Continue...
New NSK bearing going into the pulley (30BD5222DUMG) ID = 30 mm, OD = 52 mm and thickness = 22 mm
New bearing pressing in
New bearing fully installed
Tabs are bent to retain the bearing
Pulley onto the compressor
New NSK bearing going into the pulley (30BD5222DUMG) ID = 30 mm, OD = 52 mm and thickness = 22 mm
New bearing pressing in
New bearing fully installed
Tabs are bent to retain the bearing
Pulley onto the compressor
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Continue...
Pulley fully mounted on to the compressor
C-clip installation (the toughest part of this project!)
C-clip fully installed TOP
C-clip fully installed BOTTOM
Reinstall the shim and clutch
I used an 1/4 inch air wrench to tighten the nut
All good!
Pulley fully mounted on to the compressor
C-clip installation (the toughest part of this project!)
C-clip fully installed TOP
C-clip fully installed BOTTOM
Reinstall the shim and clutch
I used an 1/4 inch air wrench to tighten the nut
All good!
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I’ve been chasing a noise in the front of the engine and think I’ve narrowed it to the AC compressor.
I pulled the serpentine belt off, ran it, and the noise went away. I had recently replaced the serp belt and the idler pulley with OEM part so knew I was good there. I went ahead and put a new tensioner on thinking that could be he problem. It was not.
While I had the belt off I spun all the pulleys. The alternative, PS, and fan bracket pulleys all spun freely. The AC pulley would hardly turn at all. It’s been rattling for the last 8 years when the AC is on too.
My question is, what does a correctly operating AC pulley do when you try to spin it? Does this seem like the culprit?
I pulled the serpentine belt off, ran it, and the noise went away. I had recently replaced the serp belt and the idler pulley with OEM part so knew I was good there. I went ahead and put a new tensioner on thinking that could be he problem. It was not.
While I had the belt off I spun all the pulleys. The alternative, PS, and fan bracket pulleys all spun freely. The AC pulley would hardly turn at all. It’s been rattling for the last 8 years when the AC is on too.
My question is, what does a correctly operating AC pulley do when you try to spin it? Does this seem like the culprit?
Ohhhh - maaan, this might save me!
You can spin the compressor shaft by hand at any time regardless of the gas present or not. You can drive it million miles without AC just like that. Wonder what made the compressor to freeze. My first time seeing the broken rubber coupler. In 100 series I hear d that there is a sensor at the end of the compressor to monitor its RPM and compare it with engine RPM.
Had the same noise everyone on here did, real metalic and annoying. Narrowed it down to ac compressor pulley, I replaced the bearing, and put everything back together....only now the clutch assembly slowly spins instead of sitting still...is this because of the missing shim? I dont remember ever seeing it and probably lost it. Does not having the shim cause it to spin freely?
ktmracer01
SILVER Star
A couple of additional notes for this...
1. Removing the c-clips is the most challenging part if the A/C compressor is still installed on the vehicle.
2. Make sure the c-clip and snap ring get installed correctly. the beveled edge should face the front of the vehicle when installed.
1. Removing the c-clips is the most challenging part if the A/C compressor is still installed on the vehicle.
2. Make sure the c-clip and snap ring get installed correctly. the beveled edge should face the front of the vehicle when installed.
My AC compressor clutch pulley bearing is going bad (it's on borrowed time). Getting the snap ring off was easy with removing the oil filter. I was only able to get the pulley off about 1/4" and it wouldn't budge further after about 5 hours of pry bar, trying with my hands, and a lot of cursing. I was able to tap it back into place very easily. This is my last ditch effort of getting this thing fixed for a $20 part instead of a $1k replacement, flush, etc.
Has anyone had luck using one of these to get the pulley off while keeping the compressor on the vehicle? I'm thinking the 4" would be best, but worried i'm not going to have enough room to work with. around the fan. I'm going to order one regardless, but wanted to see before i put too much more effort into it.
Amazon product ASIN B08G8SR4XV
- i've seen it done here, but there looks to be more room to work with. thanks
Has anyone had luck using one of these to get the pulley off while keeping the compressor on the vehicle? I'm thinking the 4" would be best, but worried i'm not going to have enough room to work with. around the fan. I'm going to order one regardless, but wanted to see before i put too much more effort into it.
Amazon product ASIN B08G8SR4XV
- i've seen it done here, but there looks to be more room to work with. thanks
I recently changed the A/C Condenser and when I added the PAG oil to the unit some of it spilled out (This Page mentions adding 1.4-1.7 oz - I put in about 1.5oz but it's possible half leaked out). After getting it recharged the A/C Compressor started making the noise in the video (it's actually louder most of the time and the pulley won't move at all for a few revolutions longer than seen in the video).
Could the minimal amount of PAG oil cause the compressor to not be lubricated enough so the first few revolutions result in the sound in the video? Or, does this look like a compressor clutch going out and it's a crazy coincidence that it started right after adding new refrigerant and the small amount of PAG oil? I'm thinking about bringing it to the shop that recharged my refrigerant and asking if they could add about .8oz of PAG to see if that's the problem. Thoughts?
Could the minimal amount of PAG oil cause the compressor to not be lubricated enough so the first few revolutions result in the sound in the video? Or, does this look like a compressor clutch going out and it's a crazy coincidence that it started right after adding new refrigerant and the small amount of PAG oil? I'm thinking about bringing it to the shop that recharged my refrigerant and asking if they could add about .8oz of PAG to see if that's the problem. Thoughts?
NOT the oil. Check your air gap....should be about .020" and if correct you might want to pull the clutch and inspect the surfaces. Also be sure you are getting 12vdc at the connector.
Thanks for the reply flintknapper. Just wondering if it's common for the air gap to change without doing anything to the compressor? I only replaced the condenser and didn't touch the compressor at all.
