Aftermarket Wheel Thread (non Toyota, non TRD) (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Burt:
Looks great! Any rubbing with that setup?

I took it to ACC Garage to have sensor/techstream lift. Removed mud flaps and had to trim a bit.

upload_2018-6-28_20-9-24.jpeg


upload_2018-6-28_20-9-53.jpeg
 
Gotta a little something in the mail earlier this week:D....
Dropped off the cruiser at Cruiser Oufitters to get a little something installed so that the above little somethings would fit....:D:D
Hit the tire store this morning, and made it all happen. Pretty darn happy so far!

View attachment 1258030
what wheel is this? Specs? I like! :geek:
 
Christo, what lugs did you end up using, and do you know if you can reuse the existing TPMS from the stock LC wheels or if it requires new sensors? Also, are you reselling these, or if not do you have a recommendation on where to source them?

I'm currently looking into hub-centric rings, as the center bore is apparently 116.5mm. So far I've only found plastic rings... hoping to find someone who will machine aluminum rings.

Getting close to pulling the trigger on either the Icons or a set of RWs with 1" spacers and 285/75 Nitto Ridge Grapplers.

Yes, I’m digging up a very old post

Wouldn’t plastic rings work fine as their job is merely to center the wheel while mounting? Once the lugs are tight the clamping force should be more than enough to keep the wheel from moving at all...


Also with regard to weight ratings.. aren’t the ratings on tires more about max load at the rated speed limit and the tire avoiding problems then? Meaning a tire could conceivably see MUCH more force for a short period and survive? As opposed to a wheel where the total force applied even for a short period of time is more likely what will cause problems. That said, I can’t remember who I talked to at LCDC telluride that had a wheel or two start cracking presumably from too much load. @indycole maybe?
 
Yes, I’m digging up a very old post

Wouldn’t plastic rings work fine as their job is merely to center the wheel while mounting? Once the lugs are tight the clamping force should be more than enough to keep the wheel from moving at all...


Also with regard to weight ratings.. aren’t the ratings on tires more about max load at the rated speed limit and the tire avoiding problems then? Meaning a tire could conceivably see MUCH more force for a short period and survive? As opposed to a wheel where the total force applied even for a short period of time is more likely what will cause problems. That said, I can’t remember who I talked to at LCDC telluride that had a wheel or two start cracking presumably from too much load. @indycole maybe?

Yes, I had a ProComp wheel that was cracked when it was removed. It's worth pointing out that this occurred early in the truck's build and there wasn't really any notable weight on the truck aside from drawers. The wheel rating was extremely low (1800? 2000? something like that) but the original spec document had a misprint or something according to the vendor. Originally, I liked the look of the wheels and didn't do my own research. These wheels could have been the reason that I experienced so many flat tires as well.
 
Yes, I’m digging up a very old post

Wouldn’t plastic rings work fine as their job is merely to center the wheel while mounting? Once the lugs are tight the clamping force should be more than enough to keep the wheel from moving at all...

Yes they would. I've read of issues with the plastic disintegrating over time, which is why aluminum was appealing to me.

I did find someone who could custom machine aluminum rings for $30 per set of 4. I actually had a set of 110mm-to-116.5mm made, then discovered that Icon has a push-through center cap which is 1mm thick and which interferes with any ring (unless you clip the center cap tabs off). I considered getting 110mm-to-114.5mm rings made, but I've also found that if you mount your wheels to the hubs correctly* the centering isn't a problem, so I haven't bothered.

*correctly means hand tightening all 5 lugs several times until the wheel is centered, and only then using a torque wrench... if you use an air gun to tighten them way down from the start they will vibrate.
 
Figured I would post my question here instead of starting a separate thread.

Looking for 17" wheels for my 2015. Almost certain it will get a standard OME 1.5" lift. Not being able to find Rock Warriors, I started talking ot my shop about the Icon Rebounds which have a +25 offset, and seems several here are using without issue. He suggested the following Method's which I liked better and he said had the same specs:


Which I did like better due to the lack of the fake bead lock. But they are a 0 offset. He claims they should work fine, but I feel like they will stick out too much and potentially cause problems when flexed.

Which leads me to these which I think look better with the +25 offset


Thoughts? I had methods on my last build and liked them, but haven't seen a lot of cruisers wit hanything but the NV's.
 
What size tire are you planning on running?

Optimal offset is probably +40 to +50, depending on tire size. I have +25 offset and they've been fine for the last 20k miles. I probably wouldn't go much lower as offset affects handling, particularly during hard acceleration and braking, and will result in more potential rubbing issues as the wheels take a wider arc when turning.
 
Sorry, forgot that part. Will be running a 285 70 17 KO2. Seems like the go to size to avoid any trimming and actually the same size from my last truck.
 
For that size 33" tire, +50 offset is optimal.

I run 285/75R17, which is a 34" tire. I think somewhere around +45 offset is optimal for me, and I run +25.
 
Hard to hear but k02s sounded awful on my 200 so i put them on my tundra. Also sounded awful. Like a wheel bearing is going out. Not sure why you all love them.
 
Hard to hear but k02s sounded awful on my 200 so i put them on my tundra. Also sounded awful. Like a wheel bearing is going out. Not sure why you all love them.

My E-rated KO2s at the correct pressure were significantly quieter than my current Toyo ATIIs.. and these are the p-metric variety that have even less tread depth.
 
Is anyone running the 18 inch Evo Corse wheels on a 200? I have searched high and low and all I see is everyone is running the 17's. I was thinking about swapping out my SCS wheels (no issues) to the Evo's and wanted to reuse my tires.
 
ICON Rebounds with BFG AT KO2 LT285/70/17.
1966147
 
Is anyone running the 18 inch Evo Corse wheels on a 200? I have searched high and low and all I see is everyone is running the 17's. I was thinking about swapping out my SCS wheels (no issues) to the Evo's and wanted to reuse my tires.
The 18 inch DakarZeros might not be available yet (new product). Even availability of the 17’s has been slim.
 
The 18 inch DakarZeros might not be available yet (new product). Even availability of the 17’s has been slim.

I have some on order. I initially ordered 17's in January but they still hadn't arrived when the 18's came out. I switched the order to the 18's and was told 2-3 weeks plus shipping. That was five weeks ago. I'm hoping to see them before the end of the month.
 
I have some on order. I initially ordered 17's in January but they still hadn't arrived when the 18's came out. I switched the order to the 18's and was told 2-3 weeks plus shipping. That was five weeks ago. I'm hoping to see them before the end of the month.
I’m in the same boat, but I have 17’s on order. Also hoping to see them before the end of the month.
 
I have some on order. I initially ordered 17's in January but they still hadn't arrived when the 18's came out. I switched the order to the 18's and was told 2-3 weeks plus shipping. That was five weeks ago. I'm hoping to see them before the end of the month.

Def post pics when you get them in!!!! I am thinking that I want to make the switch to them.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom