Aftermarket temp gauge — just overheated rebuilt engine (1 Viewer)

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Does that have a buzzer? In my opinion, any temp monitoring gauge isn't worth having without an audible alarm. You need something that you won't miss when you've been driving for 5 hours straight, or when your wife is in the driver's seat and has no idea what normal operating temps are.
Negative on the buzzer. I trained my wife well, if the engine blows up under her care, she owes me a new 200 series, amongst a few other choice things I can’t type here.
 
If it were me I’d just replace the radiator, hoses and coolant and start her right back up. Iif you think the motor is ruined then anything north of that is a win.

Exactly, you may have done absolutely no damage, so don’t waste time or money tearing it down.

Replace the hoses, coolant and fix the reason it overheated then just run it.

If you overheated it to the point where s***s warped then it’ll let you know and you’ll have to deal with it then.

But don’t tear down something that may also be perfectly fine.
 
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Negative on the buzzer. I trained my wife well, if the engine blows up under her care, she owes me a new 200 series, amongst a few other choice things I can’t type here.
Damn, I'd be conflicted. Would the engine blowing be a bad thing?
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What’s all this s*** about top ends warping when the HG gives out? Am I reading too far deep into the hype? I assumed losing all your coolant was worse than a HG s***ting the bed. Help educate me please
 
Back when I was in college, I was engaging in some quality time with a young lady while my '89 Celica idled. At one point, she said "is your engine overheating?!" The needle was pegged in the red. I shut it off and listened for agonizing minutes as the coolant audibly boiled.

Started it up half an hour later, dropped her off, and drove that thing another hundred thousand miles before selling it on. Turns out the salvage title was due to a front-end wreck, and whoever did the repairs didn't notice that the electric fan was smashed at an angle, running it into the radiator where the fan motor promptly burned out.

Anyway, don't assume the worst. Replace all the coolant hoses, pressure test the radiator, and change the oil and check for glitter. Unless you see evidence of disaster, start it back up and check for exhaust gasses in the coolant.
 
What’s all this s*** about top ends warping when the HG gives out? Am I reading too far deep into the hype? I assumed losing all your coolant was worse than a HG s***ting the bed. Help educate me please
I have read that as well. One thing I was thinking, since my coolant swiftly exited my radiator and cooling system, is it possible the temp went up very fast(heated air), thus actually saving me by warning my quickly? IE, the engine never actually got as hot as it could in certain situations, because the gauge reacted to the fact there was no coolant because air has no thermal capacity.
 
I have read that as well. One thing I was thinking, since my coolant swiftly exited my radiator and cooling system, is it possible the temp went up very fast(heated air), thus actually saving me by warning my quickly? IE, the engine never actually got as hot as it could in certain situations, because the gauge reacted to the fact there was no coolant because air has no thermal capacity.
I hope so, did you already source your radiator and other associated parts?
 
I hope so, did you already source your radiator and other associated parts?
I’m actually looking at radiators right now, probably will get the hoses from mr wits end. I have an aftermarket radiator in it right now. It’s metal, I think aluminum? Can’t quite remember it was the first thing I did when I got the truck, replaced the old jb welded up radiator with a Chinese metal one. Think I might go a different route this time haha
 
I’ve run a rock auto tyc on mine through some really tough conditions and it’s done very well. In fact my engine can easily over cool.

The point is that it’s not necessarily about having the most expensive components (aluminum racing radiators etc) but rather the condition of all of them.
 
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No mention of year model. Based on grill of truck I’m going to assume ODB2. Throw an Ultragauge on it and forget that aftermarket 2nd gauge mess.

You’re over thinking this. Replace the hoses and fill it back up with coolant.
 
Just realized you said, “looks like rad hose split”. Let us know when you find out for sure. That would have to be a really crappy old hose to burst. Likely would have noticed when putting engine back together.
 
Did you disassemble the engine? I assume the scenario where there isn’t any damage after a catastrophic event like that is uncommon.
I had it towed to the dealer off the street since its was under warranty. They claimed to have tested it. It runs fine, but still has that sweet burning coolant smell to it.
 
I installed this gauge


and I have an OBD temp reading
 
So I just pulled everything. It was actually the radiator, not the hoses that leaked. There is a small score mark from the fan blade in the approximate position it is leaking from, but I cant really tell if its internally leaking or its from that mark. I did wheel it last weekend, and got stuck on a dune. I know that a my truck was sitting on the top of the dune resting on the tranny, and at that time, I was getting some funny metallic noises from the engine bay when revving. I'm thinking the weird angle from having the engine propped up by the sand may have pushed the fan blade to radiator, and I ripped it up trying to gas out of the sand. Regardless, anyone know the best aftermarket radiator? The denso one looks solid, about 300$.
 

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