Aftermarket temp gauge — just overheated rebuilt engine (1 Viewer)

[Marco Lau]

So I just pulled everything. It was actually the radiator, not the hoses that leaked. There is a small score mark from the fan blade in the approximate position it is leaking from, but I cant really tell if its internally leaking or its from that mark. I did wheel it last weekend, and got stuck on a dune. I know that a my truck was sitting on the top of the dune resting on the tranny, and at that time, I was getting some funny metallic noises from the engine bay when revving. I'm thinking the weird angle from having the engine propped up by the sand may have pushed the fan blade to radiator, and I ripped it up trying to gas out of the sand. Regardless, anyone know the best aftermarket radiator? The denso one looks solid, about 300$.

are you engine mounts and tranny mount still in good shape? The rubber have some give, but no way the engine can shift forward a couple inches like that and contact the radiator...

 

[Therealtotodile]

are you engine mounts and tranny mount still in good shape? The rubber have some give, but no way the engine can shift forward a couple inches like that and contact the radiator...

Engine mounts were replaced when I first got the truck. Might be time to take a look at them though. I actually took a look at the tranny mounts the other day and they were good. Is there a way to inspect the motor mounts without pulling them?

Some backstory: When I first got the truck, the OEM radiator had been eaten alive by the fanblade. Hence me replacing the motor mounts. Since then, it has been fine. But maybe something is up. There is certainly a score in the radiator.

 

[FMC80]

I bought the Toyota (TRAD) for ~$350 last year. Three row brass core, can't go wrong.

OEM 1993-1995 Toyota Land Cruiser Radiator Part # 16400-66040 | Modern Toyota Parts

Genuine OEM 1993-1995 Toyota Land Cruiser part # 16400-66040 - Radiator

wholesaledirect.moderntoyota.com

 

[musthave]

I install Ultragauge on all my cruisers and I push for my customers to buy one too. I stock them now. I recommend windshield mount, left lower corner. 1st page of gauges shows engine coolant temperature, intake temperature, MPH (helpful if different sized tires), instant MPG (just for fun), and battery voltage. I have multiple alarms set. What's nice, driving down the road, I am always monitoring temps and speed. I very rarely look at my dash anymore. If my temps go up, I know it. Hope the new radiator is all that you need. Get an ultragauge. YMMV

 

[DivByZero]

Ultragauge is good I'm sure, but for us guys with diesels and no ECU, it's not an option because there's no OBD2. I'd also argue for a measure of something other than coolant temp where possible. I like having my temp pickup on the head at one of the thermostat housing bolts, because coolant temp sensors can do funny things when you lose coolant, which in my experience is often the cause of overheating. Same is true if you have a blockage or other issue affecting coolant circulation. Head temps themselves off the metal though always tell you what is being felt by the engine itself, which is what matters most for protecting the engine.

 

[Therealtotodile]

I bought the Toyota (TRAD) for ~$350 last year. Three row brass core, can't go wrong.

OEM 1993-1995 Toyota Land Cruiser Radiator Part # 16400-66040 | Modern Toyota Parts

Genuine OEM 1993-1995 Toyota Land Cruiser part # 16400-66040 - Radiator

wholesaledirect.moderntoyota.com

Is there any way you could tell me why the OEM would be more durable/better at cooling/whatever it may be than the CSF? Its only like 10$ difference. I know the OEM is great, but plastic is plastic, the one that came on this truck(oem) had been jbwelded up in multiple spots on the plastic.

 

[Therealtotodile]

I install Ultragauge on all my cruisers and I push for my customers to buy one too. I stock them now. I recommend windshield mount, left lower corner. 1st page of gauges shows engine coolant temperature, intake temperature, MPH (helpful if different sized tires), instant MPG (just for fun), and battery voltage. I have multiple alarms set. What's nice, driving down the road, I am always monitoring temps and speed. I very rarely look at my dash anymore. If my temps go up, I know it. Hope the new radiator is all that you need. Get an ultragauge. YMMV

OBD1

Ultragauge is good I'm sure, but for us guys with diesels and no ECU, it's not an option because there's no OBD2. I'd also argue for a measure of something other than coolant temp where possible. I like having my temp pickup on the head at one of the thermostat housing bolts, because coolant temp sensors can do funny things when you lose coolant, which in my experience is often the cause of overheating. Same is true if you have a blockage or other issue affecting coolant circulation. Head temps themselves off the metal though always tell you what is being felt by the engine itself, which is what matters most for protecting the engine.

Any setup to take measurements at that bolt that you run?

 

[FMC80]

Is there any way you could tell me why the OEM would be more durable/better at cooling/whatever it may be than the CSF? Its only like 10$ difference. I know the OEM is great, but plastic is plastic, the one that came on this truck(oem) had been jbwelded up in multiple spots on the plastic.

I can’t, brother. I used TRAD (OEM) as it was available and I didn’t want to buy an aftermarket brand for no other reason than I didn’t want to research it. I figured OEM lasts FOREVER before it s***s the bed and I had an AC Delco radiator which was working fine when I replaced it. Not scientific at all.

 

[DivByZero]

OBD1

Any setup to take measurements at that bolt that you run?

Here's what it looks like on my HZJ80:

Pretty straightforward, just hooked up there on that bolt. I've compared coolant temps to head temps on steep rises, so I know it reads and tracks well. There's a lag of a few seconds between the coolant temps spiking and the head temps rising to match, but it samples accurately from that spot.

I took it a step further on my rig and added an oil pressure switch along with the pressure gauge off a tee:

That hooks into the engine guardian too, so I have head temp and oil pressure alarms, while still having the factory coolant temp and oil pressure gauges. The HZJ80 in the Aussie market has a buzzer that goes off if you get water into the fuel filter too. Between all that, I've got an audible alarm for everything that could kill my engine on the road, except me driving it into a tree.

 

[DivByZero]

Here's the manual for the engine guardian. I was going to post a link but couldn't find it online from a quick search:

 

[baldilocks]

There is quite a bit of written history here documenting 80’s that ran hot with the CSF 2517 copper/brass radiator. I’m one of those people. After two years of flushing and flushing and flushing, and an experiment with less coolant more water plus water wetter, I gave up and switched to the Aluminum TRAD two years ago and haven’t been over 200 degrees since.

 

[DivByZero]

There is quite a bit of written history here documenting 80’s that ran hot with the CSF 2517 copper/brass radiator. I’m one of those people. After two years of flushing and flushing and flushing, and an experiment with less coolant more water plus water wetter, I gave up and switched to the Aluminum TRAD two years ago and haven’t been over 200 degrees since.

It's worth noting that for the HZJ80, Toyota themselves switched from a copper/brass design to an aluminium design for the later year models. My 96 model has the original factory aluminium core radiator it was built with. About to replace it with another brand new genuine one as preventative maintenance.

 

[Dusten]

Ultragauge is good I'm sure, but for us guys with diesels and no ECU, it's not an option because there's no OBD2. I'd also argue for a measure of something other than coolant temp where possible. I like having my temp pickup on the head at one of the thermostat housing bolts, because coolant temp sensors can do funny things when you lose coolant, which in my experience is often the cause of overheating. Same is true if you have a blockage or other issue affecting coolant circulation. Head temps themselves off the metal though always tell you what is being felt by the engine itself, which is what matters most for protecting the engine.

My lightning has a cylinder head temp sensor and no actual coolant temp sensor.

 

[Therealtotodile]

Looks like two of my water pump to fan studs aren't going to come apart. Inside of the studs screwed out of the water pump housing instead of outside bolt spinning to remove the water pump. I cannot get them off because the threading makes it so there is nothing to leverage against....

Am I missing something here? Taking two wrenched and adding another but just allows my to drive the stuck nut further into the stud, closer to the un-threaded middle point....

 

[FMC80]

Looks like two of my water pump to fan studs aren't going to come apart. Inside of the studs screwed out of the water pump housing instead of outside bolt spinning to remove the water pump. I cannot get them off because the threading makes it so there is nothing to leverage against....

Am I missing something here? Taking two wrenched and adding another but just allows my to drive the stuck nut further into the stud, closer to the un-threaded middle point....

I'm assuming you've tried positioning your box-end wrench over the nut and using fast jerking motions to the left should coax them to come loose.

 

[Therealtotodile]

I'm assuming you've tried positioning your box-end wrench over the nut and using fast jerking motions to the left should coax them to come loose.

Not sure what you mean? Its a stud like this... =====H===== Where there middle is not threaded. One end goes into the housing, and the other end hold on the fan clutch. Because of the way they are threaded, I cant use another nut to leverage against it to spin it off. I also cannot just insert the stud back into the water pump, after I do, it just unseats itself, rather than the nut coming loose.

 

[Therealtotodile]

So I'm clear, are you trying to disco the fan clutch from the water pump which has four studs and nuts?

Sorry -- fan clutch is off. I took everything apart when I removed the radiator.

In order to reattach the fan clutch to the water pump, I need the studs to be seated in the water pump. There is a black metal housing over the pump, where the four studs stick out to attach. The studs can be reinserted into the pump, then you would slide the fan clutch over the studs and fasten down your nuts to attach it. I cannot do that because two of those studs, came out of the water pump when I removed the fan clutch. The fact that the nut on the end of the stud that held on the fan clutch to the stud are seized, is screwing me. They are now stuck on the stud, and I cannot get them off. Because of this, there is no way to get the clutch back on the pump.

I am too stupid to figure out a way to secure the stud, so I can spin off the siezed nut.

 

[FMC80]

Not sure what you mean? Its a stud like this... =====H===== Where there middle is not threaded. One end goes into the housing, and the other end hold on the fan clutch. Because of the way they are threaded, I cant use another nut to leverage against it to spin it off. I also cannot just insert the stud back into the water pump, after I do, it just unseats itself, rather than the nut coming loose.

I don't know how to help, it's evident I don't know how to read but I'm sure some guru on here experienced this already and will hook you up with solid advice. As for me, I'm going to go back to the 3rd grade.

 

[Therealtotodile]

 

[DivByZero]

So you just need to get that nut off the stud? Put a two nuts on the other side backed against each other, and hold against the fixed nut while trying to unscrew the stuck nut on the other side.