Is there a plug and play aftermarket cold air intake for an 80 series? I can't seem to find one?
Aftearket cold air intake?
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SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
Its called a snorkel...
But seriously why do you want a cold air intake? The intake is already pulling air from the passenger fender and the filter box is an excellent design.
But seriously why do you want a cold air intake? The intake is already pulling air from the passenger fender and the filter box is an excellent design.
Waste of money imo
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
Dry ice is colder....
You already have one.
Rivman1243
SILVER Star
Explain this 150°F intake air temp
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Stationary and idling, it's called heat soak. How would it make any difference at idle?
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snore kull
Just a thought, even if you were serious about putting dry ice in the air filter box for cooling, it might be a poor idea. As dry ice melts it releases CO2 gas, the same gas that's used in fire extinguishers to extinguish fires.
Putting dry ice in the confined space of the air filter box would allow that CO2 gas to be pulled into the intake manifold, that would interfere with combustion.
ppc
M Go Blue
The atmosphere already contains CO2, adding a little more from dry ice changing state wouldn't effect combustion significantly. Now on the other hand liquid nitrogen would be much more effective in cooling. 
Rivman1243
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My morning drive to work and then after work to my house. Yes the first screenshot had about 10 minutes of idling involved after sitting for approx 2 hours. Ambient temperatures around 90-95 in the afternoon's. I've always felt like my AIT's were high.
@Rivman1243 same here. Even with a snorkel I get much higher intake temps than I would expect.
When I first start the car in the morning, it will match ambient temps, so I know the MAF is reading temp correctly. But I'm thinking the fact it is getting radiation from the exhaust manifold as well as the convection within the engine bay while driving. I generally will measure somewhere of 30-80F higher than ambient temps.
When I first start the car in the morning, it will match ambient temps, so I know the MAF is reading temp correctly. But I'm thinking the fact it is getting radiation from the exhaust manifold as well as the convection within the engine bay while driving. I generally will measure somewhere of 30-80F higher than ambient temps.
Rivman1243
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Interesting information about your temps. I've always read the AIT with a snorkel was around 20-40 above ambient temperature.
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It shows 95F low, guessing just started, close to ambient temp? And 127F for the high, so ~32F split. Mine going at highway speed is ~20-30F at highway speed, but is stock configuration on the passenger side.
Lets say that an intake system could be designed that would drop it 20F and not add any intake restriction, and filter as well or better, not likely or easy. It could net 1-2% horsepower increase, maybe? If we were talking about a ricer/racer, the discussion would differ, mine is primarily for offroad use, so good solid filtering is a top priority and the stock system does that very well.
Have run with temp probes under the hood, the stock setup has a "cool" airflow on the passenger side, likely not by accident. This is easy to screw up, adding junk that blocks airflow, or venting the cool air to be replaced by hotter radiator output flow, etc. There are lots of vehicles that have poorly designed intakes, have much higher IAT, including "performance" cars. Overall, given the compromises of solid dirt filtering, being high to allow water fording, etc, the system, in it's stock form is very well designed, possibly one of the best.
If you really want to get the IAT down, adding water injection will drop it, often well below ambient. Back in the VW day we did it, would show big reduction on the IAT gauge. But even trying to get everything possible out of a small, air cooled motor, the juice wasn't worth the squeeze. Blown motors are another story, when we are talking hundreds of degrees, likely worth it, tens not so much.
COYS
SILVER Star
I'm not sure any car I've ever owned had a poorly designed factory intake system. In fact, no aftermarket option improved anything other than enhanced noise.
S2000, 911 C4S, 911 GT3, M3, M4, Range Rover 510hp, 4Runner, GX, Tahoe, blah blah blah.
I'm certain the 80 series is no exception.
S2000, 911 C4S, 911 GT3, M3, M4, Range Rover 510hp, 4Runner, GX, Tahoe, blah blah blah.
I'm certain the 80 series is no exception.
inkpot
SILVER Star
The Super Charged rigs that I have been around usually run 50-60 degrees above ambient once they are fully up to cruising temp. Have seen IAT as high as low 180’s with little/no noticeable change in performance.
I've been watching my IAT2'S on my stock between the intake and tail pipe '97, and I'll see 150°F while wheeling on a 90-100°F day, and as low as 120°F on the same day. The temp rise is happening in the manifold; all that aluminum bolted to the engine is getting good and hot, heating your intake air. If your scanner reads anywhere near ambient, it's reading from the MAF, which is your IAT1.
