Affordable Fuel Injection (2 Viewers)

[ptefj40]

Ok...follow up on progress.

The car is now starts and running after the issue with the distributor. It still needs dialing in, and I have a few things to do:-

1. Timing marks - I noticed that these are not very visible with the timing gun. Assume I need to crank the car to get to tdc and get some white paint on the timing marks.

2. The distributor is still an issue. Wired back to the battery, it seems to draw too much current and the starter labors. kind of a spin sping chuuug, spin spin chuug, when cranking. If I take off the power to the distributor, then the starter motor (which is brand new and geared) cranks really quickly. I've tried connecting the + on the distributor to both the battery and also the old + lead from the coil, but get similar results.

3. Still dreading the accelerator linkage conundrum!

THanks

 

[White Stripe]

Im thinking perhaps the reason the starter is laboring is that you don't have the ignition timing set quite right yet. Maybe get the timing set and go from their.

Ok...follow up on progress.

The car is now starts and running after the issue with the distributor. It still needs dialing in, and I have a few things to do:-

1. Timing marks - I noticed that these are not very visible with the timing gun. Assume I need to crank the car to get to tdc and get some white paint on the timing marks.

2. The distributor is still an issue. Wired back to the battery, it seems to draw too much current and the starter labors. kind of a spin sping chuuug, spin spin chuug, when cranking. If I take off the power to the distributor, then the starter motor (which is brand new and geared) cranks really quickly. I've tried connecting the + on the distributor to both the battery and also the old + lead from the coil, but get similar results.

3. Still dreading the accelerator linkage conundrum!

THanks

 

[toyotaspeed90]

1. Timing marks - I noticed that these are not very visible with the timing gun. Assume I need to crank the car to get to tdc and get some white paint on the timing marks.

If you have a wife, daughter, girlfriend or, I guess, someone else - who has/loves nail polish - it works awesome. You can get bright colors that have a sheen to them that not only show up under a timing light but also shine. They also are small and have a handy/dandy brush at the end. Makes it far easier to see at odd angles or when you only have a very limited view.

Most recently I have used a dark green with glitter. The glitter shines brightly but the green isn't overly in your face when you aren't timing it. The more expensive it is, the more fun it is to tell your wife what you used it for...

 

[ptefj40]

HA!

Like my wife isn't already happy enough that I'm spending every waking hour in the garage!

 

[ptefj40]

not sure why the timing would affect the cranking.

starter runs fast without bat connected on HEI, once connected it labors.

Could it be an earthing issue on the distributor perhaps?

 

[toyotaspeed90]

Timing can affect the cranking if timing is off - the plug can fire at the wrong time (too early or late) putting stress against the starter. The starter is trying to rotate the engine, and the plug might fire too early, pushing the piston down/backwards.

 

[Gumby]

Too much advance is a HUGE reason for slow cranking.
The noise you are describing is CLASSIC too much advance timing. It's really basic stuff. The distributor is not pulling too much amperage from the starter. There is no grounding problem there. The coil pulls a couple of amps. The starter can pull 400A easy. It's not even in the ballpark.

If you can't see your timing marks, set the engine to TDC by pulling the #1 plug and getting the piston to the top. Then set the rotor exactly to point at #1 spark plug lead. Get it started and adjust to correct from 0 degrees. Be a good idea to mark your timing marks once you have the engine at TDC.

 

[fabiodaddy]

I installed an AFI system on my 1976 FJ40 about a year ago. It is by far the best upgrade I have done to the rig.

1. Throttle cable was a little fiddly as I had to fabricate a bracket. I ordered the cable from Downey, but it wasn't anything special. Any cable with an adjustment collar on it would probably work. Or you might try getting one from an old GM 4.3 V6 vehicle. I had the linkage throttle pedal, but just cut that part of the linkage off and made it work.
2. I used the stock air cleaner after purchasing the throttle body adapter 'can' from 4plus products (he's here on mud, makes great bumpers for LCs)
3. I purchased the ECU controlled HEI distributor from AFI as I wanted it to control timing. No issues with that so far.
4. Lots of wires, but not to complicated. Just start at one end and work your way through.
5. Had an issue with high idle, but using the instructions from the AFI I was able to adjust the throttle plates and bring the idle right in. Once it warms up it idles at 650 RPM.
6. Also, when setting the timing, unplug the timing advance plug from the harness (if using the HEI ignition). Otherwise you might not be getting the correct base timing.

Only issue I have is that the fuel pump is a bit noisy, but once you get moving the rest of the noises pretty much drown out the fuel pump!

 

[onemanarmy]

I'm doing this install now on my 77 FJ55. Before I pulled the old distributor out, I marked the position of the #1 spark plug wire on the cap and the position of the rotor. If I get the new distributor close when re-installing, will that be sufficient? I can't get the cap EXACTLY how it was, as the new cap is bigger around and the 1-6 marks are further apart around the edge of the cap. Is the rotor or cap more important? I can get the cap close and the rotor almost spot on.

 

[onemanarmy]

^ got mine running.
still gotta dial in timing.
Contacted 4 plus about the TBI to stock air cleaner adapter.....they are out.
What to use for an air cleaner?

 

[wngrog]

^ got mine running.
still gotta dial in timing.
Contacted 4 plus about the TBI to stock air cleaner adapter.....they are out.
What to use for an air cleaner?

There is a way to make one out of plastic Mr Gasket adapters. @maxbob002 has the 411 on it. Looks great to me.

 

[ptefj40]

I got one from Downey, it's nothing special, but it works. He was trying to re-manufacture a better cast iron one but he was running into cost issues.

I'd reach out to him.

 

[maxbob002]

I’ve got the info over in my build thread with pics. It’s just the regular kit with an extra spacer. I rtv’d the whole thing together and it’s working great so far. Metal would probably be better but it’s hard to argue with cheap and readily available.

Project Bluebird and the tale of an engine rebuild

 

[Downey]

I got one from Downey, it's nothing special, but it works. He was trying to re-manufacture a better cast iron one but he was running into cost issues.

I'd reach out to him.

I have had to go to a new foundry, they have quoted fairly high prices for my aluminum castings, but I do plan on making the TBI air cleaners again, problem is I have to modify my molds to fit their machines and just been too busy to get them modified. Once I do make the air cleaners they will have "EFI" cast into the top lid, and they will be off-set towards the valve cover to clear the brake master cylinder. In the mean time I have been obtaining used 6 3/8" to 9" round air cleaners, sanding, painting, adding a Fuel Injection name plate to the top lid, and a new K&N pre-oiled filter element.

 

[FJ60Cam]

^ got mine running.
still gotta dial in timing.
Contacted 4 plus about the TBI to stock air cleaner adapter.....they are out.
What to use for an air cleaner?

Which intake & air cleaner are you running?

If you’re using the short AFI manifold adapter, you can do the 4 Plus style...

@JTU made this one out of 5” pipe and a cap with a hole in it. Maybe you can twist his arm to make another.

This air cleaner required playing with the mounting studs to get the height right.

 

[SteveH]

Doing it the hard way: I bought a 12" long section of 6" pipe (5"? don't recall now) and cut a section of it off with my abrasive chop saw. Welded on a disk of 10 ga. steel, cut out the hole, and then welded a 1/4" thick section of 3" dia mobile home axle tube (!) to the top. Painted it, and there you go. If you drop it on your foot, you're in big trouble.

 

[onemanarmy]

well ok then. Liking the options here. Thanks for the pics.

I'm using the 'short' AFI adapter supplied with the kit.

 

[wngrog]

I have had to go to a new foundry, they have quoted fairly high prices for my aluminum castings, but I do plan on making the TBI air cleaners again, problem is I have to modify my molds to fit their machines and just been too busy to get them modified. Once I do make the air cleaners they will have "EFI" cast into the top lid, and they will be off-set towards the valve cover to clear the brake master cylinder. In the mean time I have been obtaining used 6 3/8" to 9" round air cleaners, sanding, painting, adding a Fuel Injection name plate to the top lid, and a new K&N pre-oiled filter element.

It’s about using the OEM air cleaner. I would say you should spend your time and effort making a cone instead of the old style you made in the past. Most people these days are looking for an OEM look.

 

[maxbob002]

I have had to go to a new foundry, they have quoted fairly high prices for my aluminum castings, but I do plan on making the TBI air cleaners again, problem is I have to modify my molds to fit their machines and just been too busy to get them modified. Once I do make the air cleaners they will have "EFI" cast into the top lid, and they will be off-set towards the valve cover to clear the brake master cylinder. In the mean time I have been obtaining used 6 3/8" to 9" round air cleaners, sanding, painting, adding a Fuel Injection name plate to the top lid, and a new K&N pre-oiled filter element.

Yeah my backup plan was an old s10 air cleaner from a upull yard. I got it when I got the throttle bracket.

 

[Downey]

wngrog, you are probably spot on, but in the past guys who were not using a factory carburetor were not quite so married to the factory air cleaner. I'll be the first to admit times have changed though.