Affordable Fuel Injection

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by ptefj40, May 10, 2018.

  1. ptefj40

    ptefj40

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    All,

    My Affordable Fuel Injection system arrives tomorrow for my 77 FJ40. I was wondering whether anyone else has installed a system, and whether there are any gotchas or things to watch out for?

    I'm thinking that getting the throttle linkage may be the most difficult task.

    Also, I already removed the carb. Does anyone know whether the heat plate separates from the bottom of the standard carb....it seems pretty stuck together, and I can't find any bolts.....don't want to hit it quite yet!

    Thanks!

    Phil

    IMG_8632.jpg
     
  2. SteveH

    SteveH

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    There are a number of threads on AFI, but yes, the throttle will take some time to figure out, and you won't need that heat plate/insulator. The biggest challenge I had was getting enough cable travel on the throttle to fully open the TBI plates. I ended up making a shorter, custom gas pedal that both gave enough travel and was comfortable under my foot.
     
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  3. ptefj40

    ptefj40

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    Interesting. Thanks for the tip.

    Are you happy with the system overall?
     
  4. JohnBoy

    JohnBoy

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    Please keep us updated, very interested.
     
  5. FJ40Jim

    FJ40Jim The Cruiser Whisperer SILVER Star

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    The insulator plate should fall off the bottom of the carb. Try tapping w/ a small hammer, then try a chisel at each of the 4 corners.
     
  6. Tony_Farson

    Tony_Farson I think I know what I am doing... GOLD Star

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    I received mine a couple of days ago but won't be putting it on for bit since my engine is still in the rebuild process. Please keep us posted on throttle linkage stuff as I will be facing a similar problem soon.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Tony_Farson

    Tony_Farson I think I know what I am doing... GOLD Star

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    Okay this might be a dumb question, apologies in advance: Why not just take measurements and order a custom length cable? Is there some gotchya I am unaware of with the 40's?
     
  8. FJ40Jim

    FJ40Jim The Cruiser Whisperer SILVER Star

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    Most 40s have the mechanical pushrod throttle linkage, which means more than a cable is needed.

    Modifying the existing pedal or finding a 73-earlier cable pedal, drilling new holes for cable & screws, closing out the hole from old linkage, calculating geometry so a reasonable pedal travel is achieved, etc...
    Makes it more than a one :banana: job.
     
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  9. Tony_Farson

    Tony_Farson I think I know what I am doing... GOLD Star

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    So my 68 uses a cable pedal? = My work will be easier when it comes to connecting the throttle? FINALLY a positive to having an earlier model year!
     
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  10. SteveH

    SteveH

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    Many aftermarket throttle cables (Lokar comes to mine) are made for their own gas pedal, and are expensive and hard make work for a Land Cruiser. Some are cheap Chinese junk. I used a control cable from a lawn mower. Worked great, priced right, field-fixable.

    I may write a Toyota Trails article on my AFI experience, so I don't have a big Mud post, but search on 'AFI' in the 40 and 60 forums, and you'll find plenty. Basically, I'm happy with it. It's not a well-integrated as a factory EFI system, but it gets the job done.
     
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  11. Heron

    Heron

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    Hi Phil, I did the TBI conversion a few years back and in my opinion it is without a doubt the best mod you can do to your FJ40.
    However, I went a different rout and scrounged all my parts from a auto wrecker yard.
    I requested and received the Downey instruction manual and followed it to the letter.
    It works as advertised, what a transformation!
    You will love it.
     
  12. onemanarmy

    onemanarmy

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    following along. I have a kit for my 1977 FJ55 on the way. Any tips will be appreciated.

    what is the best route for an air filter?
     
  13. wngrog

    wngrog SILVER Star

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    See the FJ60 thread in my signature. Lots and lots of AFI info.
     
  14. ptefj40

    ptefj40

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    thanks for all the replies. Here's an update.

    Spent the majority of yesterday unpacking and installing the new system (wife not happy!).

    Laid out the harness, and cut a hole through firewall, threaded wires from glovebox through firewall to engine bay. Installed Computer and Relays in glovebox. There are lots of separate plugs from the harness. At this point I thought I had bitten off more than I could chew, but the secret seems to be to take just one step at a time.

    Made 1 'phone a friend' back to AFI, I didn't realize I needed to remove the 4 studs from the intake manifold, and which orientation the throttle body adapter plate went in. Once this was sorted I fitted the adapter, throttle body and used gasket sealer to fit that up....looks nice.

    Installed the Coolant temp, installed the electric fuel pump and filter (I decided to install this in series, after the mechanical fuel pump) - recommended per the instructions.

    Removed the old dizzy and installed the new one. I went for the AFI distributor with the large head and included coil. Noticed that the old HT leads don't fit so well, and there are no markings on the dizzy cap for the cylinders. I just 'guessed' at the starting point, and followed the firing order from the old cap and lead placement. I think I need new HT Wires as the old copper lead ends fit inside the old dizzy head ports rather than around the heads on the new dizzy.

    Welded the bung into the exhaust collector, now ready for fitment.

    Things still to do:-

    1. Connect main wiring - ground, crank voltage, check engine, 'pink' ignition wire, battery wire.
    2. New HT leads and set timing
    3. MAF Sensor - need to mount this horizontally somehow, and find the right hose from the throttle vacuum port.
    4. Throttle linkage - i'm dreading this one!
    5. Air cleaner/Filter - does anyone know what fits?
    6. Need to decide which bits of the ignitor/coil and I can remove

    Overall I'm happy with the kit so far.....just a couple of really minor niggles. Instructions are not customized (as this is a generic kit), so there is some thinking to be done. There are no pictures in the instructions, but the vast majority of connections are keyed, so they only fit to the right plug.

    The supplier bolt to the fuel pump + terminal is too big - need to scrabble around for something.

    Let's see if she runs!
     
  15. wngrog

    wngrog SILVER Star

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    You put the electric fuel pump in after the mechanical? I’ve never heard of this done.

    Also, get the Live Wires wire set via Summit to go with the DUI dizzy.
     
  16. abtx4x4

    abtx4x4

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    I agree with the live wires and DUI dizzy, but go a step further and get a computer controlled one.

    I modified my throttle pedal when I did my EFI install. Fairly easy and works really well. Steps are in this thread:

    TBI install on my 40
     
  17. SteveH

    SteveH

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    Don't forget to remove the Toyota ignitor, piggybacked to the coil. It is not discussed in the instructions. Your engine will not run with the ignitor in place. After you remove it, follow the AFI instructions and you will get a spark.
     
  18. ptefj40

    ptefj40

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    Ok. System installed. Now struggling :-(

    Can’t seem to get a spark out of the new big head distributor.

    Checked pink wire which goes to old coil positive and that gets voltage on crank and key on.

    Removed ignitor and old coil.

    Checked battery red cable -ok

    Check engine light working and got code 12 system ok.

    Crank cable is connected to starter.

    Put new leads on which I made up with a accor kit.


    I think I goofed the dizzy install which may be 180 off.

    So I think I have the following things to check

    1. Move dizzy 180
    2. I completely messed up making HT leads


    Any thoughts?
     
  19. toyotaspeed90

    toyotaspeed90

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    There are almost no RTV/sealers that are meant to be used on/with items that contact fuel..... might want to elaborate what you did here and/or come up with a different solution if RTV was used between intake and TBI....
     
  20. Downey

    Downey

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    Phil, here's some tidbits of info that you might find helpful:
    1. First, look at my ebay #253358076655, see the laser cut plate, it is designed to give you a mounting platform for the cable linkage- - out at the engine end (sandwiches between two gaskets below the throttle body).
    2. Take a look at my ebay #253264248936, this cable is 3" longer than a stock Landcruiser cable, plus has many upgrades over a factory cable, and we use it with out TBI conversions all day long.
    3. I manufacturer two different air cleaner assemblies that fit the Landcruiser TBI conversion, they are off-set to go over the valve cover, away from the brake master cylinder, BUT I am out of stock on both of them right now. You could use a 9" diameter (or smaller) on the 1975-older rigs, but the intake manifold on your 1977 is longer/moves carb or throttle body further out from engine/closer to brake master cylinder. I do have a nifty 8" diameter air cleaner that might fit, see my ebay #253544537540. It was a pricey marine air cleaner in it's former life, but I have polished the aluminum, and installed a paper automotive filter element- - -see if 8" diameter (4" from the center of your throttle body) will clear your brake master cylinder.
     
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