Advice needed on my AHC system. (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 11, 2017
Threads
2
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Location
SoCal
I purchased my 2001 LX470 from the original owners just over 2 months ago. They maintained it at a local Lexus dealer in SoCal and also sometimes used an independent shop towards the last few years of ownership (they told me they used the indy because they felt they were getting ripped off by the dealer).


From the original owners, I received a stack of maintenance records a couple inches thick and by all accounts it appeared they maintained this truck with an open check book.


Back in May 2015 they had all four shocks replaced at the indy shop. Invoice showed they used OEM parts (not sure if aftermarket are even available) including 1 can of a Toyota suspension fluid. Invoice showed they bled the system.


Then in July 2015, they had all 4 accumulators replaced at the same indy shop, again with OEM parts according to the invoice and parts numbers. And this included 1 can of Toyota suspension fluid.


I’m guessing they took it in because of a rough ride, were told it was shocks…then when the ride didn’t improve they were told actually it’s the accumulators?


So fast forward 18 months and I purchase this LX470 in Jan. 2017. I figured the previous owners put over $5k into the AHC system just under a couple years ago so it should be solid for many more years.


But I notice a couple of odd things within the first few weeks of ownership. Often shortly after starting the engine and sometimes at stop lights, the front end will abruptly lower and the slowly rise back up again. And with the height selections, the L seems to work fine but when I pressed the H, the H light blinked but the truck didn’t raise, nothing really happened.


I took it in for an oil change to a local shop indy shop (not the same one's the PO used) that I’ve used for my Lexus LS460, these guys are all Lexus master mechanics that worked at a local Lexus dealer and started their own shop that specializes in Lexus. I asked them to check the AHC system because it was acting funky. They called me and said my reservoir was nearly empty and the H wasn’t raising the truck because there wasn’t enough fluid. Further, they said that there was air in the system because the fluid level was so low and that they would have to bleed the system using 2 cans of Toyota suspension fluid.


So I agreed to have them bleed the system, cost me about $340 I think…approx $90 for the fluid and the rest labor.


After picking up the truck, everything seemed to be working fine. The L & H worked as it should and the ride seemed fine. But the front end was still abruptly lowering and slowly raising after starting the engine.


Then about 2 weeks ago I noticed that the front end was really bouncy, sorta out of nowhere. So I took it in a week later (last week) for the same indy shop (mine, not the PO) to take a look at it. They tell me the front accumulators are bad and that it’s likely because the fluid was so low and there was air in the system for a while most likely. I was a bit annoyed that I didn't know this before I paid to have the system bled but oh well.


Since then the bounciness has gotten progressively worse… very very bouncy in the front end. And whenever the car is parked for a period of time (more than an hour) the front end is visibly lower than the rear…like it’s sinking down. When I start the engine, it lowers a little more and then slowly raises…but this is happening every time now.


I know there are a couple tests one can do to see if their accumulators are bad. The one I did try was bouncing on each corner of the truck to see how the suspension responds. The rear seems fine...going up and down as it should but the front is very stiff, both sides. Almost no movement at all.

I tried the reservoir graduations test and I got 4 I think when raising it from L to H position. The fluid level in the reservoir is pretty high, much higher than the High mark and the fluid sits near the top of the last graduation when at N height. But it’s definitely not 7 so far as I can tell and I know that’s typically the minimum for a healthy functional system.


So my questions are as follows:


1. Are my accumulators really shot after 1.5 years and if so, could having air in the system cause them to fail? Is it worth bleeding the system again to see if things improve? I would do myself this time, reading how easy the process is and how many guys on here have done it.

2. I have been looking at replacement accumulators online. I want to stick with OEM and have found some Toyota dealers online that are selling them for around $535-$550 each for the front. Is this the best deal?

3. Clearly, I need to flush my entire system really well before installing the new accumulators. I don’t want my new accumulators to get contaminated as well. Should I change the rear accumulators too (can’t really afford doing all 4 at once)? I’ve heard of guys removing and flushing their shocks too, to be sure to get all of the contamination out.

4. When talking about contamination, I understand this could be other automotive fluids that were accidently poured into the reservoir. Can air be a contamination too? Moisture? I’m just trying to figure how these accumulators when bad? I want to ensure it doesn’t happen again.

I know there has been so much written about the AHC process and I assure you that I have read much of it. I just need some guidance with my particular situation. Many thanks in advance.
 
So much going on here! First red flag is the Indy changing all four "shocks" to improve the ride. Sounds like things have gone downwards from that point.
Essentially four new damper accumulators should return a decade plus of good functional service unless they have been prematurely ruined by a contaminate like brake fluid or grit/swarf in the system. Before throwing more money at the system you'll need to establish if the fluid has been contaminated by doing the water reaction test (search for images posted by me on what brake fluid + AHC fluid + distilled water looks like). At 4 grads on the reservoir (with newish healthy damper spheres I'd expect 13-14) it sounds like you could have blown the fronts. Air in the system won't cause the damper globes to fail as such but will critically affect the damping and height control due to its compressibility and response to temperature differences through the hot/cold operating cycles. The fluid level suddenly dropping in the reservoir, in conjunction with no front damping, is indicative of a ruptured damper sphere or two. Dropping height whilst parked for a several hours should not happen and this could be due to internal leakage via the solenoid valves back to tank and/or bulk air trapped in the system expanding/contracting.
If it were mine I'd check: DTCs; the AHC fluid for brake fluid; do an invasive (disassembly) clean and purge of the system if any evidence of brake fluid is found; new fluid with proper bleeding and pre install priming of the shock actuators if they are removed; adjust neutral pressures to optimum; confirm serviceability or not of the damper spheres and confirm serviceability of the height sensors. That's enough to get the ball rolling on this one.
 
What 'color' is new fluid either Indy shop put in?
 
Sorry, I read a lot of your posts @PADDO , but can you refresh my memory on what DTC is?
Diagnostic Trouble codes - check manually via the OFF light flash sequence, Techstream or a Snap On or similar high end vehicle diagnostics reader that'll talk to the AHC ecu.
 
So much going on here! First red flag is the Indy changing all four "shocks" to improve the ride. Sounds like things have gone downwards from that point.

I'm not entirely sure that's why all 4 shocks were changed, but that's my assumption. And I've heard that's what inexperience with this system will do as far as diagnosing.

Before throwing more money at the system you'll need to establish if the fluid has been contaminated by doing the water reaction test (search for images posted by me on what brake fluid + AHC fluid + distilled water looks like). At 4 grads on the reservoir (with newish healthy damper spheres I'd expect 13-14) it sounds like you could have blown the fronts. Air in the system won't cause the damper globes to fail as such but will critically affect the damping and height control due to its compressibility and response to temperature differences through the hot/cold operating cycles.

I will conduct this test next week and post the results here. Thank you! It sounds like the front accumulators were in bad shape before I had my indy shop flush the AHC system a couple weeks ago. My question is why is the ride SO much worse after flushing? It seems like at worst the ride would stay the same or hopefully improve. But it is so much bouncier. Could it perhaps be that the front globes aren't blown and it's just that the flush wasn't done correctly? Would having air in the system make the ride bouncy just in the front or would all 4 bounce the same?

Dropping height whilst parked for a several hours should not happen and this could be due to internal leakage via the solenoid valves back to tank and/or bulk air trapped in the system expanding/contracting.

When you say internal leakage do you mean that AHC fluid is leaking out of the system some how? Or do you mean that something (AHC fluid or accumulator gas) is leaking back into the system from the globes causing the front end to lower? Also, if the front accumulators are blown, should I be considered about material (rubber or non gas parts) getting into the system? Is there any risk to the rear accumulators by not addressing the blown front accumulators in a timely manner?

If it were mine I'd check: DTCs; the AHC fluid for brake fluid; do an invasive (disassembly) clean and purge of the system if any evidence of brake fluid is found; new fluid with proper bleeding and pre install priming of the shock actuators if they are removed; adjust neutral pressures to optimum; confirm serviceability or not of the damper spheres and confirm serviceability of the height sensors. That's enough to get the ball rolling on this one.

I have a Carista module, will that work for DTC codes? Or should I get the techstream app that everyone seems to be picking up? I will check AHC fluid for brake fluid and post results. I'm confident I can flush the system and change the accumulators myself. Do the shocks need to be removed to bleed the AHC from them or can this be done while they're still on the car? Whether or not I find brake fluid in the AHC fluid, I'd like to get my entire AHC system as clean as I possibly can, it's worth the extra cans of AHC fluid as I don't want to be dealing with this in 1-2 years.

Thanks for all of your advice.
 
Not familiar with Carista so can't comment as to its suitability for AHC diagnostics. It's very difficult to add much value or input to second and third hand information on work that may or may not have been performed by technicians who may or may not have been competent to do that work - it just becomes too speculative. It is very very easy to do a routine fluid exchange (I don't use the term "flush" unless an intermediary fluid like general purpose mineral based hydraulic fluid is introduced to work out contaminated fluid before refilling with dedicated AHC fluid) and I'm struggling to see any correlation between said fluid exchange and why the damping is suddenly worse. Not knowing what was done and how it was done makes it difficult. When I refer to internal leakage I mean leakage from higher pressure elements (i.e. the front shock actuator circuit) back through pressure control and limiting devices (solenoid valves) to the reservoir which is at atmospheric pressure. As opposed to external leakage through a perforated line, blown seal etc where you get a puddle on the ground! I'm happy to offer help fwiw off line so pm me if that works for you.
 
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So much going on here! First red flag is the Indy changing all four "shocks" to improve the ride. Sounds like things have gone downwards from that point.
Essentially four new damper accumulators should return a decade plus of good functional service unless they have been prematurely ruined by a contaminate like brake fluid or grit/swarf in the system. Before throwing more money at the system you'll need to establish if the fluid has been contaminated by doing the water reaction test (search for images posted by me on what brake fluid + AHC fluid + distilled water looks like). At 4 grads on the reservoir (with newish healthy damper spheres I'd expect 13-14) it sounds like you could have blown the fronts. Air in the system won't cause the damper globes to fail as such but will critically affect the damping and height control due to its compressibility and response to temperature differences through the hot/cold operating cycles. The fluid level suddenly dropping in the reservoir, in conjunction with no front damping, is indicative of a ruptured damper sphere or two. Dropping height whilst parked for a several hours should not happen and this could be due to internal leakage via the solenoid valves back to tank and/or bulk air trapped in the system expanding/contracting.
If it were mine I'd check: DTCs; the AHC fluid for brake fluid; do an invasive (disassembly) clean and purge of the system if any evidence of brake fluid is found; new fluid with proper bleeding and pre install priming of the shock actuators if they are removed; adjust neutral pressures to optimum; confirm serviceability or not of the damper spheres and confirm serviceability of the height sensors. That's enough to get the ball rolling on this one.

And sorry to play the fool (again), but wouldn't a pressure check be prudent in this chain prior to the system purge?
 
Just an update: My plan is just to remove the AHC system completely and install cruiser shocks/springs. I don't have the funds or time to fiddle with it unfortunately. At the very least I'd be looking at replacing the front accumulators and that's at least a $1200 job including fluid if I did it myself. And chances are the rear accumulators would need to be done soon after.

For just over $1k I can get the toyota shocks/springs ($560) and $400 in labor and another $70 for alignment. Shouldn't have to think about it again after that.

I appreciate everyone who responded. Thank you!
 
Just an update: My plan is just to remove the AHC system completely and install cruiser shocks/springs. I don't have the funds or time to fiddle with it unfortunately. At the very least I'd be looking at replacing the front accumulators and that's at least a $1200 job including fluid if I did it myself. And chances are the rear accumulators would need to be done soon after.

For just over $1k I can get the toyota shocks/springs ($560) and $400 in labor and another $70 for alignment. Shouldn't have to think about it again after that.

I appreciate everyone who responded. Thank you!
You've got much more reasonably priced options other than OE Toyota damper spheres, such as Citroen spheres with adapters out of the U.K. for $750 US delivered for all four globes including the 36mm changeout wrench! Takes less than 30mins to changeover the spheres and bleed the system. If you do go the conventional suspension route then you'll also need to include changing out your AHC specific torsion bars.
 
I appreciate the suggestion. I'm sure I could find some globes for less. I'm not too concerned with finding the absolute cheapest solution, just one that will last. I LOVE my LX and I've only had it 3 months. But I'm a bit panicked that the previous owners spent over $5k redoing the suspension 18 months ago, only to fine myself with flat globes today. I could have been caused by low fluid, but I can't really seem to get a certain answer as to the cause from any local mechanics that are familiar with these systems.

If I could be sure that replacing all 4 globes and flushing the system would give me 100k miles of trouble free driving, I'd do it in a heart beat. I just don't want to be in the same situation in 1-2 years...I can't afford it and don't want the headache. It seems that I've heard once the system is contaminated, you're pretty much always at risk of things going out.

It pains me to consider taking out the AHC system, but it would pain me even more to continue having problems with it. If the LC set up will give me a comfortable trouble free ride, I'm good with that. I don't do off roading or rock climbing or anything.
 
A general shop probably won't have much idea about this system. It is pretty advanced for starting in 1998!
I understand your quandary, just understand that you may have challenges getting the LX to ride the way you want after the change.
What are you doing with the parts you take off?
 
I appreciate it PabloCruise. The 2 shops that I've used in SD for this AHC issue are both former Lexus employees that started their own shops. The shop that I had bleed the system all worked for a local Lexus dealer for years until the dealer changed ownership and they left and started their own business.

The tech I took it to this week to look at it also worked for Toyota and Lexus for years and he actually drives an 06 LX470 for his daily driver. These are competent people. But these are the guys also telling me that once these systems have problems, it can be challenging to make things like new again and they typically continue to have problems.

Trouble is with me is my LX is 16 years old and I've owned it for 2 months. So I don't know the history of the AHC system other than what the service receipts from the previous owners are telling me. And that the four globes were replaced along with 4 shocks 18 months ago and now the globes seem to be toast, or at least the front globes, isn't very encouraging for replacing them again. If it were me that paid to replace them 18 months ago, I would for sure be going to a Land Cruiser set up, no question. I haven't invested much money in the AHC other than the $350 to bleed the system and that was a complete waste. So I'm not completely opposed to replacing the globes again, it just seems like a risk to me.

If my car were a 2006 or 2007 worth $25k, I'd be more inclined to try and stick with the AHC system. Or if I had owned this car for years and knew what the system and ride should feel like functioning correctly. But all I really know is a bouncy front end that has gotten progressively worse. So going to a basic LC set up (from what I hear rides comfortable) for $1k all in seems like the way to go. My other car is an LS460 so I have a plush ride if I want it. I wish I could be more assured that replacing the globes and bleeding the system would fix the issue and I'd be good to go for 100k miles.

I'm on the fence with this...not sure what I'm gonna do but I'm leaning towards going with the LC set up.
 
I've been pm'ing with PADDO about my issue. I just wanted to upload a video of the random dropping and raising back up of the front end. This happens every time I start the car and randomly at stop lights and what not.

 
Did you ever find out what was going on or how to fix it? My LX470 has the exact same issue.
 
Did you ever find out what was going on or how to fix it? My LX470 has the exact same issue.

What route did you end up taking? Did you stick with the AHC or go with a conventional LC setup? Reading your posts tonight is as if I had written them myself.

Looking forward to hearing how it all worked out!!
 
I ended up replacing my suspension with OEM Toyota landcruiser suspension in March 2017,I think. Paid about $600 for parts and $400 for labor plus a 4 wheel alignment.

Haven’t looked back. I didn’t have the time or funds to troubleshoot and throw money at it. The ride is totally fine, smooth. Never knew my LX with a functioning AHC so don’t know what I’m missing I guess. But most of all, I don’t have that worry that something is gonna crap out. It’s as solid as solid gets now. Happy I did it.
 
Random question, but would you be able to advise the exact parts replaced and work performed that has left you so pleased?

Below is the conversation I am having with a "reputable" shop in Tennessee. Any way that you (or someone else that has been through this!) can give me some advice. I'm pretty sure that my AHC is garbage based on the service history I was able to access via lexusowners.com

--

Dear Richmond-

I have been doing a good bit of research and decided that my best bet is to go with your suggestion and opt to remove the AHC components and retrofit with OEM LC parts. I’ve been looking around on ih8mud.com and I think that I can sell some of the parts to offset the cost of the conversions. That, and I get to shed some weight from the LX.

I would like to go ahead and get on your schedule for this. Please confirm and advise your confidence in being able to perform the retrofit. Is there a written procedure for this? I want to make sure that every step is completed including whatever is required to make the LX ride correctly as well as minimize the “idiot” lights that will remain illuminated.

This thread on ih8mud was pretty much the deciding factor for me. Advice needed on my AHC system.

Since I have never done this and know how much can end up being spent trying to R&R the AHC I am rather nervous about the whole thing. When I spoke with Mr. Justin Epperson the other day I could not really tell if he had performed the AHC delete before.


-- (SHOP'S RESPONSE)

Yes, the old springs will come off when we do the kit but the other components would remain on the car unless you wanted him to pull them and there could be some additional labor to pull them.


If you have a kit # we can look at it and see what it comes with and what would be involved.
 
They will need to remove the ACH struts (all 4) but you don't need to remove the globes. My mechanic left accumulators so they wouldn't leak all over the place. He capped the ACH lines that were cut to remove the struts.

The OEM (or aftermarket like OME) suspension set up is 2 springs and 2 struts I believe. The same year Toyota Landcruiser should provide you the part numbers. You can replace the torsion bars too, but will add a substantial cost to the job as they aren't cheap. I asked my mechanic about replacing the torsion bars and he told me I don't need to, they just need to be re-indexed when the alignment is done (need to be cranked up). I pressed him that I was told replacing the torsion bars was necessary and he assured me it was not. 16 months in all is good.

There is a website (cruiserparts something....) I believe that sells the OEM Kit for around $560 or so but the mechanic I used for the job was able to get me the same price on OEM parts from a local dealer so I just went with that. Expect to spend about $600 on parts and labor varies I imagine. The job is pretty straightforward so I don't think you need to be concerned. Lots of guys do this conversion themselves. The only real tough part (I've read) is removing the rear struts but if you have a lift and the right tools, you're fine. And for a seasoned mechanic it should be a breeze.

There is a fuse (I think) or a wire that can be disconnected that can make the ACH height level light turn on the dash. I gave my mechanic I link to the thread and he did that for me. And I replaced my ACH controls on the console with the small open rectangle container that can be found in the non-ACH landcrusiers. So there is pretty much no trace of the ACH.

The landcrusier suspension rides very very smooth. Not bouncy, not stiff, just smooth over everything. Zero complaints. I would do again in a heart beat.
 

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